To Fry Oysters

This oyster frying recipe comes from the manuscript cookbook of Ann Goodenough, who was active between 1700 and 1775, a period marked by both innovation and tradition in English domestic cookery. Oysters were an everyday, affordable ingredient in Georgian England, enjoyed by households of various means. This simple recipe reflects the era’s fondness for frying, as well as the increasing use of eggs and wheat flour batters—a sign of culinary techniques evolving from medieval to modern. The technique also illustrates the accessibility of protein-rich shellfish to ordinary English cooks in the 18th century, a far cry from their modern status as luxury fare. The recipe’s brevity also hints at the confidence expected of cooks at the time, who were presumed to know the basics.

The oysters would have been shucked using a stout knife. The batter was mixed in an earthenware or wooden bowl with a simple fork or even just a knife. For frying, a heavy iron pan or shallow skillet was set over an open hearth fire. Oysters were typically fried using dripping (animal fat) or possibly a neutral oil, depending on household affluence. Draining was often done using a cloth rather than modern paper towels. The entire process was guided by sight, touch, and smell—there were no thermometers or timers, just experienced hands.