To Make Almond Puddings
From the treasured pages of Various Cookeries
Unknown Author
To Make Almond Puddings
"Take a pound of Almonds blancht and beat 'em verry small with a litle Rose or Orange flower-water boyl good milk with a flake of Mace - and a litle sliced Nutmegg when it is boyled take it clean from the spice then take the quantity of a penny loaf grate it and searce it thro a Callender and then put it into the Milk and let it stand till it be pretty cool, Then put in the Almonds and five or six Yolks of Eggs, a litle salt and Sugar what you think fitt and a pound of Beessuet and Marrow very finely thread, when you please you may add a litle Orange Lemon or Citron peels cut in-thin long slices with a litle Rose or Orange flower-water, then fill your skins which must be washed in Rosewater, boyl 'em in Milk & Rose or Orange flower water mixt with plain watr when you mix your puddings put in a litle sack be sure take one skin off the Guts to make 'em-look the thiner and finer and steep 'em well in-Rosewatr"
Note on the Original Text
Early modern recipes like this one are written in prose, often in a continuous block, with spellings and capitalizations that may strike the modern reader as eccentric. Directions are broad and assume a cook's experience—specific quantities are rare, measures are relative to familiar household items (like a penny loaf), and much is left to taste and intuition. Words like 'boyl' (boil), 'searce' (sift), and 'marrow very finely thread' (shred marrow into threads) reflect the evolving English language of the time. Instructions for preparing pudding skins are detailed, underscoring the expectation that cooks were thoroughly hands-on, even with the butchery aspects of cooking.
Title
Various Cookeries (1690)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Unknown
Era
1690
Publisher
Unknown
Background
A delightful glimpse into late 17th-century kitchens, this book brims with recipes, methods, and culinary wisdom passed down through generations, capturing the essence of historical gastronomy.
Kindly made available by
Folger Shakespeare Library
This sumptuous almond pudding hails from late 17th-century England, a time when the wealthy delighted in elaborate sweet-savoury dishes, and sugar, almonds, and perfumed waters added a luxurious flair to the table. Recipes like this one often blurred the lines between pudding, sausage, and dessert—reflecting the period's fascination with texture, aroma, and opulence. The original manuscript, dating from the late 1600s, offers a snapshot into domestic cookery at a time when cookbooks were still handwritten and directions assumed a cook’s familiarity with both the kitchen and butchery skills such as preparing marrow and cleaning casings.
Back in the day, a large mortar and pestle would be crucial for pounding the almonds incredibly fine, and a sturdy sieve (or 'callender') would sift breadcrumbs to the right consistency. Brass or earthen bowls handled the mixing, and a long-handled wooden spoon was a must. To cook, pudding skins (beef intestines, thoroughly cleaned and soaked in perfumed water) would be tied off and simmered in cauldrons or large copper pots over an open hearth. Fine knives and thread for tying were indispensable.
Prep Time
40 mins
Cook Time
30 mins
Servings
10
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 1 pound blanched almonds
- 2 teaspoons rose water or orange flower water
- 1 pint (2 cups) whole milk
- 1 blade of mace
- 0.5 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
- 3 ounces white breadcrumbs (very finely grated, sieved)
- 5-6 large egg yolks
- Pinch salt
- 4 tablespoons caster sugar (adjust to taste)
- 1 pound beef suet (finely shredded) or vegetarian suet
- 3.5 ounces beef marrow (finely chopped; omit or use extra suet if unavailable)
- 2-3 tablespoons of thinly sliced candied orange, lemon, or citron peel
- 2 tablespoons dry sherry (or other sweet wine)
- Natural sausage casings (beef intestine or substitute), soaked in rose water
Instructions
- To make these Almond Puddings today, begin by blanching 1 pound of almonds and grinding them finely with a splash (about 2 teaspoons) of rose water or orange flower water to enhance the aroma.
- Bring 1 pint (2 cups) of whole milk to the simmer with one blade of mace and half a teaspoon of freshly grated nutmeg.
- Once fragrant, strain out the spices and stir in about 3 ounces of fine fresh white breadcrumb (from a crustless loaf), sieved to a soft powder.
- Allow this mixture to cool until warm.
- Now, blend in your ground almonds, 5 or 6 egg yolks, a pinch of salt, and sugar to taste (start with 4 tablespoons and adjust).
- Next, add 1 pound of finely shredded beef suet (vegetarian suet is an option) and a generous handful (about 3.5 ounces) of beef bone marrow, finely chopped.
- For an elegant flourish, add a spoonful (2–3 tablespoons) of thinly sliced candied orange, lemon, or citron peel.
- You may also refresh the mixture with a little more rose or orange flower water and a splash (2 tablespoons) of sweet wine, such as dry sherry (sack).
- Traditionally, the mixture is stuffed into cleaned lengths of beef intestine soaking in rose water to delicately scent them, but for home cooks today, natural sausage skins, or parchment paper as a mold, can stand in.
- Tie off each 'pudding' securely and simmer gently in a mixture of milk, water, and a touch more flower water until set—about 20–30 minutes, depending on the size.
- Serve warm.
Estimated Calories
540 per serving
Cooking Estimates
You will need about 40 minutes to prepare the ingredients and another 30 minutes to cook the puddings. Each serving contains about 540 calories, and the full recipe makes approximately 10 servings.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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