An Almond Florandine
From the treasured pages of Cookbook of Mary Cruso and Timothy Cruso
Written by Mary Cruso

An Almond Florandine
"Take a pound of Almonds lay them in water and blanch them then beat them in a morter with a little rose water fine then put to them yolks of 6 eggs 2 whites a qvart of milk or Cream some rose water and Sack and nutmeg and beaten Cinnamon some sweet butterr and grated bread and Sugar beat it altogether and fill your florandine - with puffe past under and over it"
Note on the Original Text
Seventeenth-century recipes like this one were usually written as memory aids, assuming a knowledgeable home cook rather than a novice. Quantities were loose, methods brief, and instructions assumed a working knowledge of cookery. Spellings were not yet standardized, so words like 'morter' (mortar), 'qvart' (quart), and 'puffe past' (puff pastry) reflect period orthography. The term 'sack' refers to a fortified wine, commonly imported from Spain, and 'blanching' meant removing almond skins via boiling water. The recipe describes a rich, aromatic custard baked in pastry—an indulgence of its age.

Title
Cookbook of Mary Cruso and Timothy Cruso (1689)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Mary Cruso
Era
1689
Publisher
Unknown
Background
Step into the flavorful world of 17th-century cuisine with Mary Cruso’s delightful collection, where time-honored recipes and inventive cookery tips offer a peek at the tastes and talents of yesteryear’s domestic kitchens.
Kindly made available by
Folger Shakespeare Library
This recipe for Almond Florandine comes from the late 17th century, attributed to Mary Cruso in 1689. The dish reflects the luxurious tastes of England’s Restoration period, where almonds, rose water, and spices like cinnamon suggested both wealth and the influence of continental (particularly French) cuisine. Desserts like this were often served at banquets for the elite, embodying refinement with their fragrant, sweet, and creamy character. Almond-based fillings and perfumed florentines or tartes were highly fashionable at the time, illustrating a merging of English and European pastry traditions.

In the 17th century, almonds would have been pounded by hand in a large mortar and pestle, which was necessary to achieve a fine texture. Eggs were separated by hand, and bread grated on a coarse grater. Ingredients were mixed in earthenware or wooden bowls. The pastry case would be rolled out with a wooden rolling pin, and baked in a wood-fired oven or hearth. The florandine itself was typically baked in a metal tart dish or a ceramic pie dish—metal tart pans often lacked removable bottoms, making serving a delicate process.
Prep Time
25 mins
Cook Time
40 mins
Servings
8
Ingredients
- 1 lb whole almonds
- 1-2 teaspoons rose water (for blanching and mixing)
- 6 egg yolks
- 2 egg whites
- 1 cup whole milk or double cream
- 1 tablespoon rose water (extra)
- 3 tablespoons sweet sherry (substitute: Marsala, sweet white wine)
- 1/2 teaspoon grated nutmeg
- 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
- 2 tablespoons unsalted butter (melted)
- 2 oz fresh breadcrumbs
- 1/2 cup caster sugar
- Puff pastry (enough to line and cover a pie dish, about 1 lb 2 oz)
Instructions
- To make an Almond Florandine, start by soaking 1 lb of whole almonds in water to loosen their skins, then blanch them by removing the skins.
- Finely grind the almonds in a food processor or mortar and pestle with 1-2 teaspoons of rose water for aroma.
- In a large bowl, combine the ground almonds with the yolks of 6 eggs and 2 whole egg whites.
- Add 1 cup of milk or double cream, an extra tablespoon of rose water, and around 3 tablespoons of sherry (or a sweet wine like Marsala) to mimic sack.
- Season with freshly grated nutmeg and 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon.
- Mix in 2 tablespoons of melted unsalted butter, 2 oz of fine fresh breadcrumbs, and 1/2 cup of caster sugar.
- Stir until well combined to form a thick, fragrant batter.
- Prepare a pie dish lined with ready-made or homemade puff pastry.
- Pour the almond mixture into the case, then cover with another layer of puff pastry to seal.
- Bake in a preheated oven at 350°F for 35-40 minutes, or until the pastry is golden and the filling is set.
- Cool slightly before serving.
Estimated Calories
520 per serving
Cooking Estimates
You will need around 25 minutes to prepare the ingredients and get the dish ready for the oven. Baking takes about 40 minutes. Each serving has about 520 calories. This recipe makes 8 servings.
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