To Make Angelica Cakes
From the treasured pages of Cookbook of Mary Cruso and Timothy Cruso
Written by Mary Cruso
To Make Angelica Cakes
"Take ye stalks of Angelica yt are left, when you preserve it, shred ym small, & beat ym in a Mortar; then put it to ye Syrup, wch is left when yu candy; give it one warm, drop it in yor glasses, & set it to dry."
Note on the Original Text
Seventeenth-century recipes like this were written as brief reminders for experienced cooks, not as step-by-step guides. Measurements are imprecise and based on what’s left over or available—'the stalks that are left,' 'the syrup that is left.' Abbreviations and archaic terms abound: 'yt' for 'that,' 'ym' for 'them,' 'wch' for 'which,' and 'yor' for 'your.' Spelling and punctuation were far less standardized than today, and recipes would assume knowledge of basic kitchen skills and tools.
Title
Cookbook of Mary Cruso and Timothy Cruso (1689)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Mary Cruso
Era
1689
Publisher
Unknown
Background
Step into the flavorful world of 17th-century cuisine with Mary Cruso’s delightful collection, where time-honored recipes and inventive cookery tips offer a peek at the tastes and talents of yesteryear’s domestic kitchens.
Kindly made available by
Folger Shakespeare Library
This recipe comes from Mary Cruso's collection dating to 1689—a time when sugar work and preserving fruits and herbs were all the rage among England’s country gentlewomen. Angelica, a fragrant herb with medicinal and culinary uses, was commonly candied or preserved, both as a sweetmeat and a digestive aid. Using up leftover syrup and stems was a thrifty practice, reflecting the ingenious food economy of the late Stuart period. Such recipes were typically handwritten for domestic kitchens, intended for housewives managing their own stillrooms and pantries.
The original process called for a mortar and pestle for pounding the angelica—a true mainstay of early modern kitchens. The syrup would be gently heated in a small pan over a hearth or chafing dish. The mixture was then dropped onto plates or shallow glasses (glassware being prestigious kitchenware at the time) and set out in a pantry, near a fire, or in an airing cupboard to dry.
Prep Time
10 mins
Cook Time
5 mins
Servings
12
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- Fresh angelica stalks (approx. 7 oz), cleaned and trimmed
- Sugar syrup left from candying (approx. 7 fl oz, or make fresh with 7 oz sugar dissolved in 7 fl oz water)
- Optional: extra sugar (if syrup is scarce, add up to 1.75 oz more)
Instructions
- Begin by taking stalks of fresh angelica (the stems left over after making preserves), washing them well, and chopping them finely.
- Place the chopped angelica into a mortar and pound until it forms a coarse paste.
- Add this angelica paste to the remaining sugar syrup left from candying (approximately 7 fl oz), mixing well to combine.
- Gently heat the mixture in a saucepan over low heat just until warm—not boiling.
- Spoon or drop teaspoonfuls onto a parchment-lined tray or into silicone mini-moulds, forming little cakes.
- Allow these to air dry in a warm, dry place (like an oven with just the lite on), until firm, about 12–24 hous.
Estimated Calories
55 per serving
Cooking Estimates
It takes about 10 minutes to chop and pound the angelica and prepare the syrup mixture. Warming the mixture takes around 5 minutes. Drying the cakes takes 12 to 24 hours, but most of this time is just waiting. Each batch makes about 12 small cakes, each with around 55 calories.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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