Recipe Manuscript

To Make Lemon Puffs

Name: To Make Lemon Puffs
Prep time: PTPT15M
Cook time: PTPT25M
Yield: 20
Cuisine: European
Ingredients: Zest of 8 unwaxed lemons (about 20-25 g); 1 egg white (approx. 30 g); 300–350 g icing (powdered) sugar, plus extra for dusting

1690

From the treasured pages of Cookbook of Jane Dawson

Written by Jane Dawson

Renaissance (1400 - 1700)European Beginner Intermediate Dessert Snack

Original Recipe • 1690

Original Manuscript(circa Renaissance, 1400 - 1700)

As inscribed by the original author's hand, transcribed with care by Lost Kitchen Scrolls

To Make Lemon Puffs

"Grade of only ye yellone peele of 8 faire Lemons free from Spotts, put ym into a Stone Morter with ye white of an Egg well beat, & as much fine past Sugr as will make it into a past; yn Drop it on papers dusted with Sugr & bake ym with a temperate oven they will be very hollow;"

Note on the Original Text

Recipes of the period, such as this, were written economically and presuming the reader’s familiarity with kitchen practices. Spelling was not standardized: 'ye' stands for 'the,' 'peele' for peel, 'ym' for 'them,' and 'sugr' for sugar. Quantities are approximate, and success relied upon the cook’s judgement. The directive to make the mixture ‘into a past’ signals to use just enough sugar to bind, rather than providing an exact measurement, reflecting the hands-on nature of early modern cookery.

Modern Kitchen Interpretation

Recipe's Origin

Cookbook of Jane Dawson - Click to view recipe in book

Title

Cookbook of Jane Dawson (1690)

You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome

Writer

Jane Dawson

Era

1690

Publisher

Unknown

Background

A delightful glimpse into late 17th-century English kitchens, Jane Dawson's recipe collection is a flavorful tapestry of sweet delicacies and savory dishes, revealing the tastes and ingenuity of bygone home cooks.

Kindly made available by

Folger Shakespeare Library

Historical Background of the Recipe

Learn about old traditions

This delightful recipe comes from Jane Dawson, a 17th-century Englishwoman, whose manuscript cookery book, compiled in the late 1600s, offers a fascinating glimpse into the domestic kitchens of the time. Lemon puffs were fashionable confections, enjoyed as dainty treats among the gentry and often accompanying fashionable tea tables. At a time when citrus fruits and refined sugar were costly and showcased status, making such sweets demonstrated both refinement and skill. The recipe’s reliance on egg white and sugar is reminiscent of early meringues and other airy, sweetmeats enjoyed in the period.

Culinary Tools when the Recipe was Crafted

Tools and techniques from kitchens of old

Originally, the recipe would have been made using a stone or marble mortar and pestle for grinding the lemon peel and blending in the egg white and sugar. Beaters or whisks fashioned from bundles of twigs may have been used to froth the egg. The paste was dropped onto sheets of coarse paper (often recycled or culinary paper) dusted with sugar to prevent sticking. Baking was done in a wood-fired brick oven, with temperature managed by experience and feel, aiming for a ‘temperate’ or moderate heat.

Modern Kitchen Adaptation

Ingredients and techniques for today's cooks

ounces, cups, Fahrenheit

Prep Time

15 mins

Cook Time

25 mins

Servings

We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!

Ingredients

Zest of 8 unwaxed lemons (about 0.7–0.9 oz)
1 egg white (approx. 1 oz)
10½–12 oz icing (powdered) sugar, plus extra for dusting

Instructions

Begin by finely grating the zest from 8 spotless lemons, taking care to avoid the bitter white pith.
Place the zest into a large stone or ceramic mortar.
Add in the white of one egg, beaten until just frothy.
Next, gradually work in sifted icing (powdered) sugar, adding enough to make a thick, pliable paste that holds its shape when dropped from a spoon—usually about 10½–12 oz.
Beat and blend everything together thoroughly until it is smooth and homogeneous.
Drop small spoonfuls (about the size of a cherry) onto baking parchment dusted with icing sugar.
Allow ample space between them, as they may expand and puff.
Bake in a preheated oven at 300°F (fan 285°F) for about 20–25 minutes, until the puffs are hollow and lightly golden.
Allow to cool before removing from paper.

Estimated Calories

35 per serving

Cooking Estimates

It takes about 15 minutes to zest the lemons, beat the egg white, and mix everything together. Baking takes another 20–25 minutes in the oven. Each puff (the size of a cherry) has about 35 calories, and the recipe makes about 20 puffs.

As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.

We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.