To Make Almond Puddings In Skins
From the treasured pages of Cookbook of 1720 approximately
Unknown Author
To Make Almond Puddings In Skins
"When the livers, kidneys, & hearts are boyled. grater them, & add to them Some blanch almonds beaten with a little rose water; shred some of the finest of the kell after it is boyled, put in it some Sugar, Corrants, & Spice to your taste, & some pretty Sort of Wine. fill the skins & boyle them."
Note on the Original Text
As was typical in 18th-century manuscript cookery, the recipe is concise, written for an accomplished household cook who already understood basic procedures. Quantities are vague or omitted, with 'some' and 'to your taste' standing in for precise measures, reflecting both the oral tradition and the expectation of culinary intuition—hence the modern need for interpretation. Spelling varies from modern English, and terms such as 'kell' (the thin stomach membrane) and 'boyled' (boiled) are used in the vernacular of the time. The instruction to 'fill the skins & boyle them' refers to natural sausage casings, a common 'skin' used before the rise of pudding cloths in the 19th century.
Title
Cookbook of 1720 approximately (1720)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Unknown
Era
1720
Publisher
Unknown
Background
A delightful window into early 18th-century kitchens, this historical culinary tome brims with recipes, culinary wisdom, and the flavors of a bygone era—offering food enthusiasts a taste of both tradition and intrigue.
Kindly made available by
Folger Shakespeare Library
This recipe hails from early 18th-century England, circa 1720—a time when frugality, ingenuity, and a taste for rich, complex flavors shaped British cookery. Offal dishes were valued both for economy and for perceived health benefits, while almonds and rosewater signaled status and sophistication. Puddings, often boiled in animal skins, were a staple of British festive and everyday tables, bridging sweet and savory taste profiles. The inclusion of sugar, currants, and spice reflects the growing accessibility of exotic imports during this era, while the use of wine adds a touch of opulence. The use of natural casings harks back to a pre-industrial method of ensuring nothing went to waste.
The original cook would have used a large iron pot or cauldron to boil the offal, as well as a mortar and pestle to grind the blanched almonds with rosewater. A sharp knife or grater handled the chopping and grating. Sausage skins would be rinsed and prepared by hand, then stuffed with a funnel or spoon—sometimes using a wooden sausage stuffer. The filled skins were boiled in a cloth or tied off and simmered directly in the pot.
Prep Time
25 mins
Cook Time
15 mins
Servings
6
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 9 oz chicken livers
- 9 oz chicken kidneys
- 9 oz chicken hearts
- 3.5 oz whole blanched almonds
- 1–2 tablespoons rosewater
- A little boiled membrane from the offal (or substitute a small amount of suet or pork fat)
- 2 tablespoons sugar
- 1 oz currants
- Pinch cinnamon
- Pinch nutmeg
- Pinch cloves
- 2–3 tablespoons sweet white wine (e.g., Muscat or sherry)
- Natural sausage casings (pork or lamb)
Instructions
- Begin by simmering about 9 oz each of chicken livers, kidneys, and hearts in gently boiling water until just cooked through—about 10–12 minutes.
- Once cooled, grate or finely chop the offal.
- Blanch 3.5 oz of whole almonds by covering them with boiling water, letting them sit for a minute, then slipping off the skins.
- Grind the almonds with 1–2 tablespoons of rosewater until you have a fine paste.
- Shred some of the finest membrane (known historically as the 'kell') from the boiled offal—if unavailable, substitute with a little slivered suet or pork fat.
- Combine the offal, almond paste, 2 tablespoons of sugar, 1 oz of currants, a generous pinch each of cinnamon, nutmeg, and cloves, and 2–3 tablespoons of a sweet white wine such as a late harvest Muscat or even a splash of sherry.
- Stuff this mixture into sausage casings (natural pork or lamb casing), tying off the ends.
- Poach gently in simmering water until the skins are firm and the filling is heated—about 10–15 minutes.
- Serve warm as a savory pudding.
Estimated Calories
300 per serving
Cooking Estimates
This recipe takes about 40 minutes from start to finish. 25 minutes are needed for preparing and assembling the ingredients, and about 15 minutes for cooking. Each serving has around 300 calories. The recipe makes about 6 servings.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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