Pâte Van Genua
"Genoa Paste"
From the treasured pages of Het Hollands, of Neederlands kook-boek
Unknown Author
Pâte Van Genua
"Neemt Queen ter degen ryp, wryv'er den Wol met een doek af: laatse in ruim Water zieden, en na dat zy zullen gaer zyn, legtse dan in koud water: fchiltse dan en kiest de best gekookste, die nog steen nog roodheid hebben; wryft ze door den Teems, en laat Suiker tot à Souflé kooken: gekookt zynde, zoo legt'er je Queen in, mengt en roert het lustig ondereen, en laat het koud werden in een aarde Schotel. Als uwe Pate zal koud wesen, fcheptse spoedig op, op blicke Plaaten of op Leyen, of ook wel in Schelpen van Blik daar toe gemaakt, en als ze in de Stoof gedroogt is, zoo regtse aan gelyk als de andere Paten. Let wel, dat men om dese Pate wel te maaken, omtrent drie vierendeel Suiker tot een Pond Queen moet hebben. Al nam men 'er een Pond toe, 't zoude maar niet als te beter wezen."
English Translation
"Take Queen (quinces) that are thoroughly ripe, rub their wool off with a cloth, then let them cook in plenty of water, and when they are done, place them in cold water. Peel them and select the best-cooked ones that have neither stones nor redness. Push them through a sieve and cook sugar to a soufflé stage. When the sugar is cooked, add your quinces to it, mix and stir it thoroughly together, and let it cool in an earthenware dish. When your paste has cooled, quickly scoop it onto tin plates or slate, or also into tin shells made for this purpose. When it has dried in the oven, arrange it just like the other pastes. Note well, to make this paste well, you need about three-quarters of a pound of sugar for each pound of quinces. If you were to use a whole pound, it would only be the better for it."
Note on the Original Text
The original recipe is written in early 18th-century Dutch, characterized by archaic spelling and word forms—'Queen' in this context signifies almonds ('amandelen'), a term once borrowed from French 'amandes.' Measurements were less precise, referencing proportions (three-quarters to a whole pound of sugar to a pound of almonds). Instructions relied on culinary intuition, describing desired end-stages ('soufflé' sugar) and physical cues (removal of 'red' or stony nuts). Modern translations benefit from specifying sugar stages and providing measurable quantities for best results.
Title
Het Hollands, of Neederlands kook-boek (1725)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Unknown
Era
1725
Publisher
J. du Vivie
Background
A delectable journey into 18th-century Dutch cuisine, this cookbook serves up traditional recipes, culinary wisdom, and a flavorful glimpse of the Netherlands’ rich gastronomic heritage.
Kindly made available by
Internet Archive
This recipe for 'Pâte van Genua' (Genoa Paste) hails from the early 18th-century Dutch cookbook 'Het Hollands, of Neederlands kook-boek,' published in 1725 in Leiden. At the time, such rich almond pastes were considered confections of refinement, often served at the tables of the well-to-do or in apothecaries, symbolizing both luxury and medicinal value. Almond-based sweets like these drew inspiration from Mediterranean and Italian culinary traditions, which Dutch patissiers eagerly adapted for their own festive occasions. The use of ample sugar reflected access to colonial imports and the growing Dutch sweet tooth in the golden age of their trade.
Cooks in the 18th century would use a sturdy mortar and pestle for crushing and grinding almonds, a coarse linen cloth for wiping and handling, and a large copper or iron pot for boiling. Fine sieves ('Teems') or food mills would be employed to purée the almonds smoothly. Earthenware dishes held the cooling paste, and the finished sweets would be shaped on tinned baking sheets, slates, or in small tin molds—often shell-shaped. Drying took place either in a gently heated oven or a specially purposed 'stoof' (drying cabinet), ensuring a delicate texture.
Prep Time
30 mins
Cook Time
30 mins
Servings
20
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 2.2 lbs fresh, ripe almonds (or blanched almonds as substitute)
- 1.65 lbs granulated sugar (or up to 2.2 lbs, to taste)
- Water (enough for boiling and for the syrup)
Instructions
- Begin by selecting fresh, ripe almonds (referred to here as 'Queen').
- Rub them with a cloth to remove surface dust or skin remnants.
- Place the almonds in a large pot of boiling water and cook them until they are thoroughly tender.
- After boiling, transfer them into cold water to quickly cool, then peel and sort out any that are undercooked, have stones, or show any red discoloration.
- Next, press the blanched almonds through a fine sieve or food mill to create a smooth almond paste.
- In a separate pot, cook sugar with a little water until it forms a thick syrup that reaches the 'soufflé' stage (about 235–239°F, the early soft-ball stage).
- Once the sugar syrup is ready, thoroughly mix the almond paste into the hot syrup, stirring vigorously to fully combine.
- Allow this mixture to cool in an earthenware dish until it solidifies.
- When cold, quickly scoop the mixture onto greased baking sheets, slates, or into special tin shells made for this purpose.
- Allow them to dry further in a warm (but not hot) oven or a drying cupboard.
- Once dried, the Genoa paste can be served just like other pâte varieties.
Estimated Calories
160 per serving
Cooking Estimates
You will need about 30 minutes to prepare the almonds and make the paste. Boiling, cooling, and making the syrup take about 30 minutes. The drying process in the oven or cupboard adds another 1 to 2 hours. Each piece is about 160 calories if you make 20 pieces.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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