Pastey Van Een Trap-Gans
"Pasty Of A Bustard Goose"
From the treasured pages of Het Hollands, of Neederlands kook-boek
Unknown Author

Pastey Van Een Trap-Gans
"Haal hem de Maag uit, sla de Beenen in de Bouten stukken, lardeer se met middelbaar Spek wel digt, bestrooi se met Zout, Peper, heele Nagelen, geraspte Notemuscaat, en Lauwrier-bladen; nog bespaar het gestampte of gesneden Spek niet, wyl dat de Trap-gans een Wild is dat seer droog is. Gy kunt se in een Korst van goed Deeg zetten, verguld se, en laat se drie of vier uuren in den Oven."
English Translation
"Pasty of a Bustard Goose. Remove the stomach, break the leg bones into pieces, and closely lard them with medium bacon. Sprinkle with salt, pepper, whole cloves, grated nutmeg, and bay leaves. Do not spare the chopped or sliced bacon, as the bustard goose is a very dry game bird. You can put it in a crust of good dough, glaze it, and leave it in the oven for three or four hours."
Note on the Original Text
18th-century recipes like this one are instructive yet open-ended, as they were written for readers expected to have a competent understanding of cookery and household skills. Quantities are approximate or absent, and instructions direct but unspecific, reflecting oral tradition and the cook's experience rather than standardized measures. Spelling follows old Dutch conventions (e.g., 'Trap-Gans' for bustard-goose, 'Nagelen' for cloves), and some ingredients like bustard are now uncommon, requiring careful modern substitution.

Title
Het Hollands, of Neederlands kook-boek (1725)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Unknown
Era
1725
Publisher
J. du Vivie
Background
A delectable journey into 18th-century Dutch cuisine, this cookbook serves up traditional recipes, culinary wisdom, and a flavorful glimpse of the Netherlands’ rich gastronomic heritage.
Kindly made available by
Internet Archive
This recipe hails from the Dutch culinary classic 'Het Hollands, of Neederlands kook-boek', first published in Leiden in 1725. In the early 18th century, elaborate meat pies known as 'pasteien' were a centerpiece of festive or aristocratic tables in the Netherlands, showcasing both culinary skill and the hunter's bounty. Game birds like bustard (nowadays extremely rare and protected) were prized for their size and flavor, though their leanness required clever use of fats and seasonings. This particular pastey would have been a showstopping winter or feast day dish, baked in the hearth or communal oven.

In the 18th century Dutch kitchen, cooks would use a large wooden table for preparing dough and larding the bird, a strong sharp knife for butchery, larding needles to insert the pork fat, and a mortar and pestle for grinding spices and mincing pork fat. The pie would be baked in a heavy ceramic or metal pie dish or even free-form on a baking stone, then cooked in a brick oven fired with wood or peat. Tongs, wooden spatulas, and brushes made from feathers (for gilding with egg wash) were standard tools of the trade.
Prep Time
45 mins
Cook Time
3 hrs 30 mins
Servings
10
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 1 whole bustard (if unavailable, use 1 large goose or wild turkey, approx. 9–11 lb)
- 7 oz medium-fat pork belly (for larding)
- 3.5 oz additional pork fat or bacon (chopped or pounded)
- 2 teaspoons sea salt
- 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
- 6 whole cloves
- 1 teaspoon grated nutmeg
- 3–4 bay leaves
- 1 batch shortcrust pastry (from approx. 2.2 lb flour, 18 oz butter/lard, water as needed)
- 1 egg (for egg wash, optional)
Instructions
- Begin by preparing your bustard or substitute goose, removing the stomach and cleaning it thoroughly.
- Break the leg bones into pieces for easier handling, then lard the leg parts generously and closely with medium-fat pork belly.
- Season the meat well with salt and black pepper, then add whole cloves, freshly grated nutmeg, and a few bay leaves.
- Apply plenty of finely chopped or pounded pork fat, as bustard is a very lean game bird and requires this extra fat to prevent dryness during cooking.
- Prepare a sturdy shortcrust pastry and encase the seasoned bird within, ensuring a tight seal.
- Optionally, gild the pastry with egg wash for a rich golden color.
- Bake in a preheated oven at around 350°F (180°C) for 3 to 4 hours, depending on the size of the bird, until the crust is golden and the bird is tender and richly flavored.
Estimated Calories
900 per serving
Cooking Estimates
It takes about 45 minutes to prepare the bird and pastry before cooking. Baking the encased bird in the oven takes around 3.5 hours. Each serving has about 900 calories, and the recipe serves 10 people.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
Join the Discussion
Rate This Recipe

Den Bockfisch In Einer Fleisch Suppen Zu Kochen
This recipe hails from a German manuscript cookbook compiled in 1696, a time whe...

Die Grieß Nudlen Zumachen
This recipe comes from a rather mysterious manuscript cookbook, penned anonymous...

Ein Boudain
This recipe comes from an anonymous German-language manuscript cookbook from 169...

Ein Gesaltzen Citroni
This recipe, dating from 1696, comes from an extensive anonymous German cookbook...
Browse our complete collection of time-honored recipes