Recipe Manuscript

Tartarugas Para Dias De Carne

Name: Tartarugas Para Dias De Carne
Prep time: PTPT45M
Cook time: PTPT3H
Yield: 8
Cuisine: European
Ingredients: 1.5–2 kg beef brisket, veal shoulder or similar (substitute for turtle meat); 2 liters water; 30 g salt (for boiling); 200 g smoked bacon or pancetta, in strips; 5 g black pepper, freshly ground; 1 bunch flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped; 2 shallots, finely chopped; 200 g beef, sliced (for layering); 100 g additional bacon, sliced (for layering); Fresh herbs: 2 bay leaves, 3 sprigs thyme; 200 ml dry white wine; Optional: 1 batch piquant sauce (ex: 200 ml mustard or caper sauce) or ragoût of mushrooms and root vegetables

"Turtles For Meat Days"

1785

From the treasured pages of Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha

Written by Lucas Rigaud

Culinary Enlightenment (1700 - 1800)European Advanced Dinner Lunch

Original Recipe • 1785

Original Manuscript(circa Culinary Enlightenment, 1700 - 1800)

As inscribed by the original author's hand, transcribed with care by Lost Kitchen Scrolls

Tartarugas Para Dias De Carne

"Como as tartarugas do mar saõ ordinariamente grandes, depois de cozidas em agua, e sal, fazem-se em quartos, alimpaõ-se, lardeão-se com toucinho temperado com sal, pimenta, salsa, e chalotas picadas; depois cozem-se em huma bréza entre pranchas de toucinho, pranchas de vacca, hervas finas, e huma gota de vinho branco; em estando cozidas, e enxutas, fervem-se com molho picante; ou com o ragú de legumes que melhor parecer. Podem tambem lardeallas com toucinho fino, entezar-se em vinho branco, e acaba-las como o rodovalho de fricandó, e fervirem-se com os mesmos molhos, e do mesmo modo."

English Translation

"As sea turtles are ordinarily large, after being cooked in water and salt, they are cut into quarters, cleaned, and larded with bacon seasoned with salt, pepper, parsley, and chopped shallots; then they are cooked in a braise between slices of bacon, slices of beef, fine herbs, and a drop of white wine; when they are cooked and dry, they are simmered with a spicy sauce or with the vegetable ragout that seems best. They can also be larded with fine bacon, marinated in white wine, and finished like fricandeau turbot, simmering with the same sauces, and in the same manner."

Note on the Original Text

The language is florid, with long, clause-heavy sentences without punctuation conventions we expect today. A focus on process, not quantities or timing, reflects the assumption that the intended audience had kitchen experience or professional helpers. Spelling peculiarities like 'alimpaõ-se' (they are cleaned) and 'lardeão-se' (they are larded) capture archaic orthography—note the use of 'hum' instead of 'um' for 'one' and other 18th-century spelling variants. Recipes were written more as notes for a practiced cook than beginner-level instruction.

Modern Kitchen Interpretation

Recipe's Origin

Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha - Click to view recipe in book

Title

Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha (1785)

You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome

Writer

Lucas Rigaud

Era

1785

Publisher

L. da Silva Godinho

Background

A sumptuous journey through 18th-century Portuguese cuisine, 'Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha' invites readers to master the refined and innovative cookery of its time. Delight in a treasury of recipes and culinary secrets that celebrate the flavors and craftsmanship of Lisbon's gastronomic past.

Kindly made available by

Internet Archive

Historical Background of the Recipe

Learn about old traditions

This recipe hails from late 18th-century Lisbon, when sea turtles were occasionally imported as a luxury delicacy and served on "meat days" rather than fasting days. The book 'Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha' reflects a cosmopolitan Portuguese table influenced by French technique and global ingredients brought via maritime trade. Given the rarity and size of sea turtles, recipes like this were reserved for elite households. The method echoes classic French preparations for veal and game, incorporating larding and slow braising—techniques prized for keeping large cuts moist and flavorful. Today's ethical and legal prohibitions on sea turtle consumption mean historical preparations are reimagined with modern, sustainable meats, capturing the flavor and spirit of the original dish.

Culinary Tools when the Recipe was Crafted

Tools and techniques from kitchens of old

Cooks of the 1780s would have used heavy iron cauldrons for boiling and large kitchen knives for jointing substantial animals—sea turtles were truly massive! Larding was done with a larding needle, drawing salted pork fat through the cuts. A 'bréza' (braising setup) was created in a deep pan, using layers of meats and herbs. Clay or copper pots with tight-fitting lids provided gentle, slow cooking over charcoal or wood fires. For the sauces, smaller copper saucepans stood ready at the hearth, and the final presentation would have required carving knives and platters to portion and serve.

Modern Kitchen Adaptation

Ingredients and techniques for today's cooks

ounces, cups, Fahrenheit

Prep Time

45 mins

Cook Time

3 hrs

Servings

We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!

Ingredients

3.3–4.4 lbs beef brisket, veal shoulder or similar (substitute for turtle meat)
8 1/2 cups water
2 tablespoons salt (for boiling)
7 oz smoked bacon or pancetta, in strips
2 teaspoons black pepper, freshly ground
1 bunch flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
2 shallots, finely chopped
7 oz beef, sliced (for layering)
3 1/2 oz additional bacon, sliced (for layering)
Fresh herbs: 2 bay leaves, 3 sprigs thyme
3/4 cup dry white wine
Optional: 1 batch piquant sauce (ex: 3/4 cup mustard or caper sauce) or ragoût of mushrooms and root vegetables

Instructions

Begin by simmering the meat—today, use a large piece of beef or veal, as sea turtle is no longer an ethical or common choice—in well-salted water, just as was done with the original sea turtles, which are sizable creatures.
Once cooked, cut the meat into quarters or chunky cuts.
Clean off any gristle and unwanted parts.
Next, lard each piece generously with strips of smoked bacon, seasoned with a mixture of salt, pepper, chopped parsley, and finely minced shallots—this delivers flavor deep into the meat.
Prepare a 'bréza': set the larded meat between layers of bacon (instead of salt pork, use thick sliced bacon), slices of beef, fresh aromatic herbs (like thyme and bay leaf), and a splash of dry white wine.
Cover and simmer gently until the meat is cooked through and tender, then remove it, letting any excess liquid drain so the surface becomes slightly dry.
To finish, simmer the meat in a piquant sauce (think caper sauce, or mustard-based gravy), or a rich ragoût of vegetables and mushrooms—the sauce is up to you!
For more finesse, lard the pieces with extra-fine bacon, marinate them briefly in white wine ("entezar-se"), and finish as you would a modern veal fricandeau: cooked gently and sauced before serving.

Estimated Calories

700 per serving

Cooking Estimates

Preparing and cooking this dish takes some time because you need to simmer the meat until tender, then layer and finish it with sauce. The calorie count is an estimate based on ingredients like beef, bacon, and optional sauce, and the servings are based on the amount of meat used.

As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.

We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.