Recipe Manuscript

Reſtoraõ

"Restoration"

1785

From the treasured pages of Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha

Written by Lucas Rigaud

Reſtoraõ
Original Recipe • 1785
Original Manuscript(circa Culinary Enlightenment, 1700 - 1800)
As inscribed by the original author's hand, transcribed with care by Lost Kitchen Scrolls

Reſtoraõ

"A Rumem no fundo de huma panella tres, ou quatro arrateis de vitella, fatias de preſunto, huma galinha em quartos, duas raizes, duas cebolas, huns dentes de alhos, huma capella de falſa, e hervas finas, dois cravos da India, hum pouco de toucinho derretido, e huma gota de azeite bom; cubra-ſe a panella, e ponha-ſe ſobre lume vivo, e em a carne eſtando refeita, e teza; deitem-lhe caldo ſufficiente, eſcume-ſe, e deixe-ſe ferver pouco e pouco quatro horas; eſtando reduzido, e de bom goſto paſſe-ſe pelo peneiro, e tirada a gordura, firva para dar alma a varios ragús, e molhos."

English Translation

"Place three or four pounds of veal at the bottom of a pot, slices of ham, a chicken cut into quarters, two roots, two onions, some cloves of garlic, a sprig of parsley, fine herbs, two cloves, a little melted bacon, and a drop of good olive oil; cover the pot and put it over high heat, and once the meat is browned and firm, add enough broth, skim it, and let it simmer slowly for four hours; when it is reduced and has a good flavor, strain it through a fine sieve, remove the fat, and use it to give depth to various ragouts and sauces."

Note on the Original Text

The recipe is written in archaic Portuguese, using the long 'ſ' (resembling 'f') and spellings now obsolete. Directions are brief, assuming familiarity with culinary practices of the time, and quantities are sometimes vague—intentional, as experienced cooks adjusted based on the ingredients and diners at hand. As was the style, ingredients are layered in order of importance and flavor contribution, and instructions encourage tasting and adjusting. The text also blends function with poetic purpose—broth 'giving soul' to sauces and ragouts—reminding us that food was always a matter of both sustenance and spirit.

Recipe's Origin
Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha - Click to view recipe in book

Title

Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha (1785)

You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome

Writer

Lucas Rigaud

Era

1785

Publisher

L. da Silva Godinho

Background

A sumptuous journey through 18th-century Portuguese cuisine, 'Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha' invites readers to master the refined and innovative cookery of its time. Delight in a treasury of recipes and culinary secrets that celebrate the flavors and craftsmanship of Lisbon's gastronomic past.

Kindly made available by

Internet Archive
Historical Background of the Recipe
Learn about old traditions
Historical kitchen setting

Restorative broths like this one, often termed 'restaurantes' or 'restoraõ' in 18th-century Portugal, were considered both nutritional tonics and foundational culinary elements. They drew inspiration from the burgeoning French approach to stock-making, mingled with deep Portuguese preferences for generous use of both fresh poultry and cured pork. This recipe comes from the celebrated 'Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha' published in Lisbon in 1785—a time when both health and taste were closely intertwined in the kitchen. Such broths were the secret weapons of cooks in aristocratic and affluent households: fortifying for the ailing, energizing for the healthy, and a must-have on hand for enhancing the richest sauces and ragouts.

Culinary Tools when the Recipe was Crafted
Tools and techniques from kitchens of old
Historical culinary tools

Back in the late 18th century, this restorative broth would be brought to life in a capacious clay or heavy copper pot. Preparation took place over open flames or in hearths where cooks could carefully control the heat over long hours. Skimming was done with a slotted spoon, and the final straining relied on a fine muslin cloth or a woven sieve. A sharp knife and sturdy wooden cutting board were indispensable for butchering the poultry and chopping vegetables, while long-handled wooden spoons kept everything nicely mixed. No modern gadgets in sight—just patience, fire, and time.

Modern Kitchen Adaptation
Ingredients and techniques for today's cooks
ounces, cups, Fahrenheit

Prep Time

30 mins

Cook Time

4 hrs

Servings

10

We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!

Ingredients

  • 3 1/3 lbs veal (or beef if necessary), cut into chunks
  • 5-7 oz sliced ham or prosciutto
  • 1 whole chicken (about 2 1/2-3 1/3 lbs), quartered
  • 2 large carrots, peeled and chopped
  • 2 medium onions, peeled and chopped
  • 3-4 garlic cloves, peeled
  • 1 small bunch fresh parsley
  • 1 bouquet garni (bay leaf, thyme, marjoram or other fine herbs)
  • 2 whole cloves (the spice)
  • 1 3/4 oz salt pork or substitute with lightly rendered bacon
  • 2 tablespoons quality olive oil
  • 2 quarts plus 3 1/2 tablespoons rich meat stock or water

Instructions

  1. Begin by arranging about 3 1/3 lbs of veal cuts at the bottom of a large, heavy pot.
  2. Layer over several thick slices (about 5-7 oz) of good quality cured ham or prosciutto.
  3. Cut a medium-sized chicken into quarters and add it to the pot as well.
  4. Peel and roughly chop 2 large carrots and 2 medium onions, and add them along with 3-4 peeled garlic cloves.
  5. A 'capella de salsa' refers to a small bunch of parsley, so tie together a handful of fresh parsley with a bundle of your favorite herbs (bay leaf, thyme, perhaps some marjoram), often called 'herbas finas.' Add 2 whole cloves (the spice, not garlic!) for warmth.
  6. Melt 1 3/4 oz of salt pork or substitute with lightly rendered bacon, and drizzle over a little (about 2 tablespoons) good quality olive oil.
  7. Cover your pot tightly and set it over high heat to help the meats begin rendering their flavors and browning slightly.
  8. Once the mixture is sizzling and the meat is starting to firm up and take some color, pour in enough quality meat stock (or water, in a pinch)—about 2 quarts plus 3 1/2 tablespoons—to just cover the ingredients.
  9. Carefully skim off any impurities as it heats.
  10. Then, reduce the heat and let your concoction gently simmer for four hours, stirring now and then.
  11. When the broth has reduced to a rich, flavorful liquid, strain it through a fine sieve or muslin.
  12. Skim off the fat floating on top.
  13. This deep, concentrated 'restorative' broth can now be used to bring depth and soul to various ragouts and sauces, just as was done in 18th-century Portuguese kitchens.

Estimated Calories

250 per serving

Cooking Estimates

Preparation takes about 30 minutes to chop the meat and vegetables and set everything up. Cooking time is 4 hours as the broth simmers gently, allowing the flavors to deepen. Each serving is around 250 calories because the final broth is strained of all solids and fat, and yields about 10 portions.

As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.

We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.

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