Manjar Branco De Geléa De Carne
"Blancmange Of Meat Jelly"
From the treasured pages of Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha
Written by Lucas Rigaud
Manjar Branco De Geléa De Carne
"Pizem em hum gral de pedra meio arratel de amendoas doces , e meia duzia dellas amargosas, molhando-se de quando em quando com hum pouco de leite ; e depois de pizadas , e desfeitas em duas , ou tres colheres de caldo das geléas , tempere-se com assucar , dois cravos , hum páo de canella , casca de limaõ , e sal ; e posto sobre o lume , estando quente , passe-se com força duas , ou tres vezes por hum guardanapo , ajuntando-se-lhe hum pouco de leite ; e deitado no seu prato , deitem-lhe algumas gotas de agua de flor de laranja ; passem-lhe por cima huma folha de papel branco , e em estando frio , e pegado , sirva-se para entremeio."
English Translation
"Pound in a stone mortar half a pound of sweet almonds, and half a dozen bitter ones, moistening from time to time with a little milk; after pounding and dissolving them, add two or three spoonfuls of jelly stock, season with sugar, two cloves, a stick of cinnamon, lemon peel, and salt. Place over the heat, and when hot, strain forcefully two or three times through a napkin, adding a little more milk. Once on its plate, drizzle some drops of orange blossom water on it; cover with a sheet of white paper, and when cold and set, serve as an intermezzo."
Note on the Original Text
18th-century Portuguese recipes were written in a conversational, almost shorthand style, assuming cooks knew both ingredients and fundamental methods. Abbreviations and inconsistent spelling were common ('pizem' for 'pizem' or 'moer'—to grind; 'hum' for 'um'—one). Directions flowed as narrative, giving the cook considerable freedom to judge quantities and times by experience. Here, precise measurements were less important than technique: persistent grinding, multiple strainings, and seasoning to suit the cook’s palate and the quality of available ingredients.
Title
Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha (1785)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Lucas Rigaud
Era
1785
Publisher
L. da Silva Godinho
Background
A sumptuous journey through 18th-century Portuguese cuisine, 'Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha' invites readers to master the refined and innovative cookery of its time. Delight in a treasury of recipes and culinary secrets that celebrate the flavors and craftsmanship of Lisbon's gastronomic past.
Kindly made available by
Internet Archive
This recipe for 'Manjar branco de geléa de carne' comes from the 1785 Portuguese cookbook 'Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha,' a testament to the opulent and eclectic banquets of 18th-century Lisbon. At the time, 'manjar branco' (white delicacy) was a luxurious dish, marrying the worlds of sweet dessert-making and savory meat cookery—typical of Baroque cuisine's playful contrasts. Often reserved for formal tables, such dishes showcased not only skill but the host’s cosmopolitan taste and access to costly goods like almonds, spices, and citrus peel. The inclusion of meat jelly or broth is a nod to the era's fondness for blending flavors that today might seem unexpected.
The original cook would use a heavy stone mortar and pestle for grinding the almonds—essential for achieving a fine paste in the absence of modern blenders. A linen cloth or napkin served as the sieving material, strained repeatedly by pressing with a spoon or by hand. Cooking was done over a controlled fire or stove, likely in a copper pan for gentle, even heating. A simple serving dish, sheet of paper or parchment, and a cool pantry or larder for setting completed the toolkit.
Prep Time
20 mins
Cook Time
15 mins
Servings
4
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 8 oz sweet almonds
- 6 bitter almonds (or substitute with a few drops of almond extract if unavailable)
- 2/3 cup whole milk (plus extra as needed)
- 2-3 tablespoons beef consommé or clarified meat broth
- 2-3 tablespoons granulated sugar (to taste)
- 2 whole cloves
- 1 stick of cinnamon
- 1 piece lemon peel (about 2 inches long)
- Pinch of salt
- A few drops of orange blossom water
- Parchment (or waxed paper) for covering
Instructions
- Begin by grinding 8 ounces of sweet almonds and 6 bitter almonds in a sturdy mortar, adding small splashes of milk to help form a smooth paste.
- Once finely ground, stir in 2-3 tablespoons of rich beef consommé or clarified meat broth, blending until smooth.
- Season with sugar to taste (about 2-3 tablespoons), add 2 whole cloves, a stick of cinnamon, a piece of lemon peel, and a pinch of salt.
- Warm the mixture gently in a saucepan over low heat.
- Once heated but not boiled, strain the mixture forcefully through a fine cloth—such as a clean linen napkin—repeating the process two or three times, and adding a little more milk if needed for a smooth, custard-like texture.
- Pour the mixture into a serving dish, then sprinkle a few drops of orange blossom water on top.
- Cover with a sheet of parchment or waxed paper, allow to cool until set, and serve as an elegant sweet-meets-savory treat for the table.
Estimated Calories
180 per serving
Cooking Estimates
You will need about 20 minutes to grind the almonds and prepare everything. Cooking on low heat and straining will take around 15 minutes in total. Each serving has about 180 calories, and this recipe makes 4 servings.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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