Recipe Manuscript

Cabeça De Porco

"Pig'S Head"

1785

From the treasured pages of Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha

Written by Lucas Rigaud

Cabeça De Porco
Original Recipe • 1785
Original Manuscript(circa Culinary Enlightenment, 1700 - 1800)
As inscribed by the original author's hand, transcribed with care by Lost Kitchen Scrolls

Cabeça De Porco

"Cortada que seja a cabeça do porco junto ás pás, chamuscada, e muito bem limpa, abra-se pela parte debaixo, e tirem-lhe os ossos do pescoço, dos queixos, e do focinho até aos olhos; isto feito, deitem-na de molho a sangrar, e depois enxugue-se; ponha-se sobre hum panno, lardee-se com toucinho grosso, e tempere-se com bastante sal, pimenta, cravo, noz moscada, gengibre, sementes de coentro, folhas de louro, mangericão, mangerona, tudo pizado; cubra-se de pranchas de toucinho, embrulhe-se em hum panno, ate-se muito bem apertada, metta-se em huma panella; deitem-lhe agua, e vinho partes iguaes, rodas de cebola, cenouras, panéis, rodas de limão, salsa, louro, pouco tomilho, e alecrim, sal, pimenta inteira, e ponha-se a ferver pouco a pouco cinco, ou seis horas; cozida que seja, deixe-se esfriar no seu proprio caldo para tomar mais gosto; depois ponha-se a escorrer, tire-se-lhe o panno, e sendo bem enxuta, e aparada, sirva-se sobre hum guardanapo guarnecido de salsa, para prato de fiambre, e de entre meio. A cabeça do porco montez se póde preparar do mesmo modo."

English Translation

"Once the pig's head is cut off close to the shoulders, singed, and very well cleaned, open it from underneath and remove the bones from the neck, jaws, and snout up to the eyes. After this, soak it in water to bleed, then dry it. Place it on a cloth, lard it with thick bacon, and season with plenty of salt, pepper, cloves, nutmeg, ginger, coriander seeds, bay leaves, basil, marjoram, all pounded together. Cover it with slices of bacon, wrap it in a cloth, tie it up very tightly, and place it in a pot. Add equal parts water and wine, onion slices, carrots, leeks, lemon slices, parsley, bay leaf, a little thyme, rosemary, salt, and whole pepper. Let it simmer gently for five or six hours. Once cooked, let it cool in its own broth to absorb more flavor. Then, drain it, remove the cloth, and when it is well dried and trimmed, serve it on a napkin garnished with parsley, as a cold cut or as an entrée. The wild boar's head can be prepared in the same way."

Note on the Original Text

Early printed Portuguese cookbooks like Rigaud's employed dense, flowing prose, assuming that readers had prior kitchen experience. Instructions are delivered as continuous narrative rather than in the bullet-point precision we expect today. Spellings are pre-orthographic-reform: for example, 'hum' (um), 'chamuscada' (singeing), and 'metta-se' (put). Ingredients and amounts are generalized, and steps are described through actions rather than times or detailed weights, reflecting the intuitive, craft-based knowledge of 18th-century cooks.

Recipe's Origin
Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha - Click to view recipe in book

Title

Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha (1785)

You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome

Writer

Lucas Rigaud

Era

1785

Publisher

L. da Silva Godinho

Background

A sumptuous journey through 18th-century Portuguese cuisine, 'Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha' invites readers to master the refined and innovative cookery of its time. Delight in a treasury of recipes and culinary secrets that celebrate the flavors and craftsmanship of Lisbon's gastronomic past.

Kindly made available by

Internet Archive
Historical Background of the Recipe
Learn about old traditions
Historical kitchen setting

This recipe comes from 'Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha', first published in Lisbon in 1785 by Lucas Rigaud. The book offers a window into 18th-century Portuguese culinary traditions, blending influences from royal banquets, rural kitchens, and convent cookery. Meaty dishes like Cabeça de Porco (Pig's Head) were celebrated both for thrift and for transforming humble cuts into feasts worthy of grand tables. Pig's head was not only economical but also symbolized abundance and hospitality. Serving a beautifully garnished head, cold and decorated, was a centrepiece for festive buffets—an echo of the rich charcuterie traditions found across Europe at the time.

Culinary Tools when the Recipe was Crafted
Tools and techniques from kitchens of old
Historical culinary tools

The original preparation required robust iron or copper pots large enough to hold a whole pig's head, hefty kitchen knives for butchery, and open wood-fired hearths or large stoves to maintain a low, steady simmer for hours. Muslin or sturdy linen cloths were essential for tightly wrapping and shaping the head during cooking, and coarse butcher's twine for tying. Heavy wooden boards and mortar and pestles were used for pounding the spices and herbs. Once cooked, the head was served on fine linens and garnished simply but elegantly, reflecting both luxury and rustic charm.

Modern Kitchen Adaptation
Ingredients and techniques for today's cooks
ounces, cups, Fahrenheit

Prep Time

1 hr

Cook Time

6 hrs

Servings

10

We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!

Ingredients

  • 1 whole pig's head (about 9–11 lb), halved and cleaned
  • 10.5 oz thick-cut unsmoked bacon (or salted pork fat), cut into strips
  • 1 oz salt
  • 2 teaspoons whole black peppercorns, plus extra freshly ground pepper
  • 5 whole cloves
  • 1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
  • 1 teaspoon ground ginger
  • 2 teaspoons coriander seeds, crushed
  • 4 bay leaves
  • 2 tablespoons fresh basil leaves (or 2 teaspoons dried)
  • 2 tablespoons fresh marjoram (or 2 teaspoons dried)
  • 10.5 oz sliced bacon or more pork fat (for covering)
  • 2 large onions (about 10.5 oz), sliced
  • 2 large carrots (about 7 oz), sliced
  • 1 large parsnip or 1 small celeriac (about 5.5 oz), sliced
  • 1 lemon, sliced
  • 1 small bunch flat-leaf parsley
  • 1 sprig thyme
  • 1 sprig rosemary
  • 8 1/2 cups dry white wine
  • 8 1/2 cups cold water

Instructions

  1. Start by removing the pig's head at the level of the shoulders and singe any remaining bristles over a flame.
  2. Clean thoroughly, then split the head open from underneath and carefully remove the bones from the neck, jaws, and snout up to the eyes.
  3. Soak the head in cold water to draw out excess blood, then pat dry.
  4. Lay the head open-side up on a clean cloth, and stud the flesh with pieces of thick-cut bacon or pork fat.
  5. Season generously with salt, freshly cracked black pepper, cloves, nutmeg, ginger, crushed coriander seeds, bay leaves, basil, and marjoram—all freshly ground if possible.
  6. Cover the head with slices of bacon, wrap it tightly in a clean cloth, and tie it securely.
  7. Place the wrapped head in a large pot.
  8. Cover with equal parts water and dry white wine (enough to submerge), add thick slices of onion, carrot, parsnip (or celeriac as a modern substitute), lemon slices, parsley, bay leaves, a sprig of thyme, rosemary, salt, and whole black peppercorns.
  9. Bring very slowly to a gentle simmer and cook for 5 to 6 hours.
  10. Once tender, let the head cool in the liquid for maximum flavor.
  11. Remove, drain thoroughly, unwrap, and trim the head.
  12. Serve cold, arranged on a napkin and garnished with plenty of parsley, as a centrepiece for a charcuterie selection or a substantial starter.

Estimated Calories

700 per serving

Cooking Estimates

Preparing and cooking a whole pig's head does take time. You'll need about 1 hour to clean, bone, and season the head and to prepare the vegetables. The dish then simmers gently for 5 to 6 hours. This recipe makes a generous starter or centerpiece for about 10 people. Each serving is a rich treat, so it's best enjoyed as part of a larger spread.

As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.

We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.

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