Recipe Manuscript

اسفيذباجة

"Isfidhbaja"

1200

From the treasured pages of Kitāb al-ṭabīkh

Written by Ibn al-Karīm, Muḥammad ibn al-Ḥasan

اسفيذباجة
Original Recipe • 1200
Original Manuscript(circa Medieval, 500 - 1400)
As inscribed by the original author's hand, transcribed with care by Lost Kitchen Scrolls

اسفيذباجة

"صنعتها ان يعرق اللحم المقطع اوساطاً بالدهن المسبوك من الألية الطرية حتى يتورد . ثم يلقى عليه ملح بقدر الحاجة وكسفرة يابسة وكمون وفلفل مسحوقة ناعماً وقطع بصل وكف حمص مقشور وعيدان شبت . ويغمر بالماء، ويطرح عليه يسير ملح، ويغلى حتى ينضج . وينحى البصل عنه، ويزاد يسير ماء فاتراً . ثم يؤخذ من اللوز الحلو جزء فيقشر ويدق ناعماً ويستحلب بالماء ويجعل في القدر وتمرق حسب الارادة بحليب اللوز . ومن أراد جعل فيها قبل طرح اللوز المستحلب كبباً قد اتخذت من اللحم الأحمر المدقوق بالأبازير المعروفة ودجاجة مسموطة مغسولة مقطعة على مفاصلها . ثم ينحى الشبت عنها . ويكسر على رأسها عيون البيض . وينثر عليها كمون ودارصيني مدقوقين ناعماً . وتمسح جوانب القدر بخرقة نظيفة وتترك على النار ساعة حتى تهدأ وترفع ."

English Translation

"Prepare it by sweating the meat, cut into medium pieces, in rendered fat from fresh tail fat until it blushes. Then add salt as needed, dried coriander, finely ground cumin and pepper, pieces of onion, a handful of peeled chickpeas, and stalks of dill. Cover with water and add a little more salt, then boil until cooked. Remove the onions, and add a little warm water. Next, take some sweet almonds, peel them, grind them finely, infuse them with water, and add this to the pot; dilute as desired with almond milk. If desired, before adding the almond infusion, you may form small balls from pounded red meat mixed with the known spices, and add a chicken that has been boiled, washed, and cut at the joints. Then remove the dill. Crack eggs over the top. Sprinkle gr ound cumin and cinnamon over it. Wipe the sides of the pot with a clean cloth and leave on the fire for an hour until it settles, then remove."

Note on the Original Text

Medieval Arabic recipes are typically written in a terse, procedural style—often assuming background knowledge. Quantities are rarely specified, ingredients are given in the order of use, and instructions can be poetic or variable. Terms like 'esfidbaja' denote pale or white stews, with the almond milk providing the signature look. Spellings vary because vowels were not always standardized, and some ingredients (like kasfura) may be regionally interpreted. The recipe relies on the cook's skill to judge readiness, seasoning, and consistency, making it both a technical and artistic process.

Recipe's Origin
Kitāb al-ṭabīkh - Click to view recipe in book

Title

Kitāb al-ṭabīkh (1200)

You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome

Writer

Ibn al-Karīm, Muḥammad ibn al-Ḥasan

Era

1200

Publisher

Maṭbaʻat Umm al-Rabīʻayn

Background

Step back into the sumptuous kitchens of the medieval Islamic world with this early collection of culinary wisdom. Savor recipes, tips, and gastronomic secrets that once delighted the palates of princes and poets alike.

Kindly made available by

NYU/ American University of Beirut
Historical Background of the Recipe
Learn about old traditions
Historical kitchen setting

This recipe for 'Asfidbaja' comes from the medieval city of Mosul, present-day Iraq, during the high point of the Islamic Golden Age (12th-13th century). The work was authored by Ibn al-Karim, an esteemed cookery writer. Such dishes were typical of the sophisticated court cuisine of the period, marked by elaborate use of spices, nuts, and delicate meat preparations, often blending Persian, Arab, and Central Asian influences. The method showcases a love for subtlety and complexity, featuring almond milk as a luxurious finishing touch characteristic of elite tables.

Culinary Tools when the Recipe was Crafted
Tools and techniques from kitchens of old
Historical culinary tools

Historically, meals like this would have been prepared in large clay or copper pots set directly over a wood or charcoal fire. The fat would have been rendered in situ, and the almond milk extracted using a stone mortar and pestle, then strained through a fine cloth. Wooden spoons, coarse sieves, and fabric for wiping the sides of the pot were typical tools. Eggs might have been broken in by hand, and water drawn from wells. Serving vessels would be brass or glazed pottery.

Modern Kitchen Adaptation
Ingredients and techniques for today's cooks
ounces, cups, Fahrenheit

Prep Time

20 mins

Cook Time

2 hrs

Servings

6

We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!

Ingredients

  • 2.2 lbs lamb shoulder or leg, cut into medium chunks
  • 1.75 oz rendered lamb fat (or clarified butter as substitute)
  • 1.5 teaspoons (0.3 oz) salt, plus more to taste
  • 1 teaspoon (0.07 oz) dried parsley or coriander (substitute for kasfura)
  • 1 teaspoon (0.07 oz) ground cumin
  • 1/2 teaspoon (0.04 oz) ground black pepper (in place of historical 'filfil')
  • 1 large onion, cut in pieces
  • 1.8 oz peeled chickpeas, soaked overnight
  • a handful of fresh dill stalks (or substitute with fennel fronds if unavailable)
  • 4 - 6 cups water, plus 1 cup for adjusting
  • 1.8 oz blanched sweet almonds
  • 2/3 cup water for extracting almond milk
  • Optional: 7 oz minced lamb for meatballs
  • Optional: 1 whole chicken, boiled and jointed
  • 3-4 eggs
  • 1 teaspoon (0.07 oz) ground cumin (for finishing)
  • 1 teaspoon (0.07 oz) ground cinnamon (substitute for historical 'darasini')

Instructions

  1. Begin by cutting approximately 2.2 lbs of lamb (shoulder or leg) into medium-sized pieces.
  2. Heat 1.75 oz of rendered lamb fat (from tail fat or regular suet) in a large pot over medium heat until fully melted, then add the lamb and cook, stirring, until the meat is just blushing pink.
  3. Season the meat with roughly 1.5 teaspoons (0.3 oz) of salt, 1 teaspoon (0.07 oz) dried parsley, 1 teaspoon (0.07 oz) ground cumin, and 1/2 teaspoon (0.04 oz) black pepper.
  4. Add 1 large onion, cut into chunks, 1.8 oz peeled chickpeas (ideally soaked overnight), and several sprigs of fresh dill.
  5. Pour over enough water to submerge the contents (about 4 to 6 cups).
  6. Bring to a boil, skim if necessary, then add a little extra salt to taste.
  7. Simmer until the lamb and chickpeas are tender (about 1.5 hours).
  8. Remove the onion and add a splash (up to 1 cup) of warm water to adjust the consistency.
  9. Peel about 1.8 oz of blanched sweet almonds, grind finely, and mix with 2/3 cup water to extract almond 'milk'; add this creamy mixture to the pot, stirring gently.
  10. Optionally, form small meatballs from 7 oz minced lamb mixed with spices; parboil these separately and add them to the stew with a boiled, cleaned, and jointed chicken if desired.
  11. Remove dill stalks.
  12. Crack 3-4 eggs over the top, sprinkle another teaspoon each of cumin and cinnamon, and allow the pot to finish gently on low heat for the flavors to meld and the eggs to set.
  13. Serve hot.

Estimated Calories

550 per serving

Cooking Estimates

It takes about 20 minutes to prepare the ingredients, like slicing meat and soaking chickpeas, and around 2 hours for cooking, which includes simmering the stew. Each serving contains an estimated 550 calories. The recipe makes about 6 servings.

As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.

We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.

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