مدفونة
"Madfouna"
From the treasured pages of Kitāb al-ṭabīkh
Written by Ibn al-Karīm, Muḥammad ibn al-Ḥasan

مدفونة
"صنعتها ان يقطع لحم سمين صغاراً، وتسلى الألية ويعرق فيها. ثم يغمر بالماء، ويلقى عليه درهم ماج ودرهم كسفرة يابسة مطحونة ناعماً وعود دارصيني. فاذا غلى غلية اخذت رغوته فرميت. و يؤخذ لحم احمر فيدق دقاً نعماً ويسلق في ماء وملح ويلقى عليه كف حمص مقشراً مدقوقاً جريشاً قد نقع في الماء ساعة. ثم يؤخذ الباذنجان الكبار فتقطع اقماعه ويزال جميع ما في جوفه من بزره ويحفظ لئلا ينثقب، ثم يحشى من ذلك اللحم، وتجعل فيه الأبازير المعروفة. ثم يصفف في القدر بعد ان يقطع له يسير بصل ويرمى في القدر قبله. ثم يصبغ مرق القدر بيسير زعفران. و ينر عليه درهم كسفرة يابسة ودارصيني مسحوقين ناعماً. ويرش على رأس القدر يسير ماء ورد. وتمسح جوانبها بخرقة نظيفة وتترك حتى تهدأ على نار لينة ساعة ثم ترفع."
English Translation
"To make it, cut fatty meat into small pieces, render tail fat in a pot, and sweat the meat in it. Then cover with water, and add one dirham of maaj and one dirham of finely ground dried cassia, along with a stick of Chinese cinnamon. When it comes to a boil, remove the scum. Take some red meat, pound it finely, and boil it with water and salt. Add to it a handful of peeled, pounded chickpeas that have been soaked in water for an hour. Take large eggplants, remove the stems, and take out all the seeds from the inside, being careful not to break them. Stuff them with the prepared meat mixture, adding the well-known spices. Arrange them in the pot, after putting a little chopped onion at the bottom. Tint the pot’s broth with a little saffron. Sprinkle over the pot one dirham each of ground dried cassia and Chinese cinnamon. Sprinkle a little rose water on top. Wipe the sides with a clean cloth and let simmer gently on low heat for an hour, then remove."
Note on the Original Text
This recipe, like many from its era, is written for cooks with robust experience, offering little in the way of precise measures or times. It moves chronologically through the process, assuming knowledge of butchery and spice preparation. Spelling and ingredient naming reflect medieval Arabic culinary lexicon: for instance, 'ksafra' (cassia leaves) and 'maj' (rue). Modern cooks will need to interpret some ingredients and amounts, substituting where needed due to safety or availability—rue, for example, is now used sparingly if at all. Its method emphasizes clarity in sequencing actions—first the broth, then the stuffing, eggplant, assembly, and finishing with delicate aromatics like saffron and rosewater.

Title
Kitāb al-ṭabīkh (1200)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Ibn al-Karīm, Muḥammad ibn al-Ḥasan
Era
1200
Publisher
Maṭbaʻat Umm al-Rabīʻayn
Background
Step back into the sumptuous kitchens of the medieval Islamic world with this early collection of culinary wisdom. Savor recipes, tips, and gastronomic secrets that once delighted the palates of princes and poets alike.
Kindly made available by
NYU/ American University of Beirut
This recipe, 'Madfūnah,' hails from the rich culinary world of 12th–13th century al-Mawṣil (modern-day Mosul, Iraq) and comes courtesy of Ibn al-Karīm, a notable medieval cook and gastronomer. The cuisine of this era was known for its lavish use of spices, sophisticated technique, and the careful blending of meats, pulses, and aromatics. Ibn al-Karīm’s works belong to a golden age of Arabic gastronomy, marked by innovative uses of both familiar and exotic ingredients, and reflect an elite kitchen where whole staffs of cooks executed complex preparations. This stuffed eggplant dish is both luxurious and practical, showcasing skilled meat preparation and artful use of eggplants and spices.

Back in the day, cooks would have employed large copper or earthenware pots heated over charcoal or wood fires, using iron knives for finely chopping meat and vegetables. For pounding meat and chickpeas, a sturdy stone or wooden mortar and pestle was essential. Kitchen textiles were simple lint-free cloths for cleaning and wiping (as indicated for the lid). Ladles and skimmers of bronze or wood were used for stirring and removing foam. The final slow simmer would be done over banked coals for gentle heat.
Prep Time
30 mins
Cook Time
1 hr 30 mins
Servings
6
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 1.5 lbs fatty lamb, cut into small pieces
- 3.5 oz rendered lamb fat (or 3 oz clarified butter)
- 6 1/3 cups water
- 1 1/2 tsp dried rue (or 3/4 tsp dried oregano, for safety)
- 1 1/2 tsp dried cassia leaves, ground (or 1 tsp bay leaf powder + 1 tsp cinnamon powder)
- 1 stick cinnamon (2 inches)
- 9 oz lean beef, minced
- 1 3/4 oz peeled chickpeas, crushed and pre-soaked
- 3 large eggplants (about 1 3/4 lbs in total)
- 1 3/4 oz onion, chopped
- 1/16 oz saffron threads, steeped in warm water
- Your choice of spice mix: ground coriander, black or long pepper (about 1/2 tsp total)
- 1 1/2 tsp ground cassia leaf substitute (see above)
- 1 tbsp (0.5 fl oz) rosewater
Instructions
- Begin by cutting about 1.5 lbs of fatty lamb (shoulder or leg) into small pieces.
- In a large heavy-bottomed pot, gently render 3.5 oz of lamb fat (or substitute with 3 oz clarified butter if lamb fat is not available) until it melts, then fry the lamb pieces in this fat.
- Add enough water (about 6 1/3 cups) to cover the meat.
- Season with 1 1/2 tsp dried rue (or substitute with 3/4 tsp dried oregano for safety, as rue can be toxic in large quantities), 1 1/2 tsp of powdered dried cassia leaves (substitute with 1 tsp bay leaf powder + 1 tsp cinnamon), and a stick of cinnamon bark (about 2 inches).
- While the broth simmers, skim off any foam.
- Separately, finely mince 9 oz lean beef and simmer in a small saucepan with water and a pinch of salt.
- When nearly cooked, add 1 3/4 oz peeled and roughly crushed chickpeas (ideally soaked in water for one hour beforehand).
- Prepare three large eggplants (about 1 3/4 lbs total): cut off the stalk ends, scoop out the seeds and pulp carefully, keeping the outer shell intact.
- Stuff the eggplants with the cooked minced beef and chickpea mixture, seasoning with your choice of ground coriander, black pepper, or historical spices like long pepper.
- Layer some chopped onion (1 3/4 oz) in the cooking pot, then lay the stuffed eggplants on top.
- Tint the simmering broth with a pinch of saffron (about 1/16 oz steeped in warm water), and pour this gently over the eggplants.
- Sprinkle over another 1 1/2 tsp powdered cassia leaves (see above note on substitute) and a little cinnamon.
- Finish with a dash (about 1 tablespoon) of rosewater.
- Wipe the inside of the lid with a clean cloth, cover tightly, and simmer gently over low heat for around 1 hour.
- Serve the eggplants whole, surrounded by the rich, aromatic sauce.
Estimated Calories
550 per serving
Cooking Estimates
It takes about 30 minutes to prepare everything, including stuffing the eggplants and prepping ingredients. Cooking takes around 1.5 hours in total, including browning the meat and simmering the finished dish. This dish serves about 6 people and each serving is about 550 calories.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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