عكيكة
"Akika"
From the treasured pages of Kitāb al-ṭabīkh
Written by Ibn al-Karīm, Muḥammad ibn al-Ḥasan

عكيكة
"صنعتها ان تؤخذ الألية الطرية تقطع وتسلى ويخرج حمها . ثم يؤخذ اللحم السمين يقطع صغاراً ويلقى على الألية المسلية ، ويحرك حتى يتورد . ثم يجعل عليه غمره ماء ويسير ملح و يترك حتى ينضج وينشف ولا يبقى من مائيته سوى الدهن . ويلقى عليه كسفرة يابسة وكمون مدقوقين ناعماً ودارصيني وفلفل مسحوقاً ومصطكى ويحرك . ثم يؤخذ من اللبن الفارسي بقدر الحاجة فيجعل فيه الثوم المدقوق و يطرح في القدر و يترك حتى يغلي . ثم تقطع النار من تحت القدر وتترك على نار هادئة حتى ينعقد اللبن و يقذف دهنه اعلاه . ثم يذر عليه يسير من دارصيني مسحوقاً ناعماً وتمسح جوانب القدر بخرقة نظيفة وترفع ."
English Translation
"It is made by taking soft tail fat, cutting it up, and rendering it to extract its fat. Then fatty meat is cut into small pieces and added to the rendered fat and stirred until it turns rosy. Then enough water is added to cover it, along with a little salt, and it is left until it cooks and dries out, and only the fat remains without any liquid. Then crushed dried chufra (a spice), finely pounded cumin, cinnamon, ground pepper, and mastic are added and stirred. Then some Persian yogurt is taken as needed, and crushed garlic is added to it, then poured into the pot and left to boil. Then the fire is removed from under the pot and it is left on a gentle heat until the yogurt thickens and its fat rises to the top. Then a little finely ground cinnamon is sprinkled on top, the sides of the pot are wiped with a clean cloth, and it is served."
Note on the Original Text
The recipe is written in a concise, stepwise sequence, assuming the cook is already familiar with key kitchen techniques. Measures are descriptive rather than precise, as was typical in medieval Arabic cooking: specificity was achieved through experience rather than standardized measurements. Some ingredient names reflect older terminology (e.g., 'al-ayya' for tail fat, 'ksafrah' possibly for dried cassia bark). Spellings and terms have shifted over centuries, but the sensorial cues—such as the color and aroma of the meat—were universal markers of the dish's readiness.

Title
Kitāb al-ṭabīkh (1200)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Ibn al-Karīm, Muḥammad ibn al-Ḥasan
Era
1200
Publisher
Maṭbaʻat Umm al-Rabīʻayn
Background
Step back into the sumptuous kitchens of the medieval Islamic world with this early collection of culinary wisdom. Savor recipes, tips, and gastronomic secrets that once delighted the palates of princes and poets alike.
Kindly made available by
NYU/ American University of Beirut
This recipe, known as 'عكيكة' (Akīkah), traces its roots to medieval Iraq in the region of Mosul. It is included in an early 13th-century collection by Ibn al-Karim, reflecting the rich culinary heritage of the Abbasid Caliphate. During this era, cooks expertly combined meats, aromatic spices, and dairy, showcasing the cosmopolitan palate of the medieval Middle East. Cookbooks like Ibn al-Karim's capture daily and festive gastronomy, providing glimpses into the sophisticated kitchens of wealthy urban households. This dish in particular demonstrates the prized use of animal fats, intricate spice blends, and the innovative thickening of stews with yogurt, a hallmark of regional cooking.

Traditionally, this dish would be prepared in a heavy-bottomed copper or brass cooking pot set over a low charcoal brazier or open flame. The fat and meat would be rendered and cooked using large slotted wooden spoons for stirring. Spices would be ground with a stone or brass mortar and pestle. Garlic would be pounded separately. Yogurt was typically made at home and thickened in clay bowls. The sides of the cooking pot would be wiped clean with a linen cloth before serving.
Prep Time
20 mins
Cook Time
1 hr 15 mins
Servings
4
Ingredients
- 10.5 oz lamb tail fat (or beef suet as substitute)
- 1 lb 2 oz fatty lamb meat, diced
- 2.5 cups water
- 0.5 tsp salt
- 2 tbsp dried cassia (substitute with cinnamon), finely ground
- 1 tbsp ground cumin
- 1 tsp ground black pepper
- 0.5 tsp ground mastic
- 1 1/4 cups thick full-fat yogurt (Persian-style if available)
- 2 cloves garlic, crushed
- 1 tsp ground cassia/cinnamon for finishing
Instructions
- To make this ancient dish, start by taking 10.5 ounces of fresh lamb tail fat (or substitute with beef suet if unavailable).
- Cut it into small cubes and render it gently in a large pot over low heat until the fat melts and only crispy bits remain.
- Remove the solids, leaving behind only the clear fat.
- Next, add about 1 pound 2 ounces of fatty lamb meat, diced into small pieces, to the hot rendered fat.
- Sauté the meat, stirring constantly, until it takes on a rosy, browned color.
- Add enough water to cover the meat (approximately 2.5 cups) and season with a half teaspoon of salt.
- Let everything simmer uncovered until the liquid almost entirely evaporates, leaving mostly the rendered fat behind (about 45–60 minutes).
- Then, add 2 tablespoons of finely crushed dried cassia (substitute with cinnamon if needed), 1 tablespoon of ground cumin, 1 teaspoon ground black pepper, and 1/2 teaspoon ground mastic.
- Stir well.
- Take 1 1/4 cups of thick full-fat yogurt (or Persian-style yogurt), and in a separate bowl, mix in 2 cloves of garlic, crushed into a paste.
- Add this yogurt and garlic mixture to the cooked meat and stir.
- Allow the pot to come back to a gentle simmer.
- Then lower to the lowest possible heat, and let it cook gently until the yogurt thickens and releases its fat to the surface (about 15–20 minutes).
- Finish with a dusting of 1 teaspoon of finely ground cassia/cinnamon on top.
- Wipe the interior sides of the pot with a clean cloth and serve directly from the pot.
Estimated Calories
600 per serving
Cooking Estimates
Preparing this dish takes about 20 minutes, including cutting the meat and fat, and mixing the spices and yogurt. Cooking takes about 75 minutes; you render the fat and cook the meat first, then let it simmer with spices and yogurt until everything thickens. Each serving is about 600 calories when divided into 4 portions.
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