خشكنانج
"Khoshkananj"
From the treasured pages of Kitāb al-ṭabīkh
Written by Ibn al-Karīm, Muḥammad ibn al-Ḥasan

خشكنانج
"هو ان يؤخذ الدقيق السميذ الفائق ويجعل على كل رطل ثلثة اواقي شيرج ، و يعجن عجناً قوياً ، و يترك حتى يختمر . ثم يقرص مستطيلاً ، ويجعل في وسط كل واحدة بمقدارها من اللوز والسكر المدقوق المعجون بماء الورد المطيب [ وليكن اللوز مثل نصف السكر ] ثم تجمع على العادة وتخبز في الفرن وترفع ."
English Translation
"It is made by taking fine semolina flour and, for every pound, adding one-third of an ounce of sesame oil. Knead it thoroughly and leave it to ferment. Then shape it into rectangular discs, and in the middle of each, place an amount of crushed, kneaded almonds and sugar mixed with scented rose water (the quantity of almonds should be about half that of the sugar). Then fold as usual, bake in the oven, and remove when done."
Note on the Original Text
Medieval Arabic recipes were generally written as concise instructions, aimed at experienced cooks rather than novices. Weights were often given in ratios or vague measures—here, pounds (ratl) and ounces (awāqī)—requiring familiarity with standard regional measures, which could vary by place and time. Spellings and ingredient terms might differ from modern naming (e.g., shīrj for sesame oil), and steps such as leavening assume use of wild or sourdough starters, not commercial yeast. Directions for shaping ('on the custom') presume a cook already knows the conventional form.

Title
Kitāb al-ṭabīkh (1200)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Ibn al-Karīm, Muḥammad ibn al-Ḥasan
Era
1200
Publisher
Maṭbaʻat Umm al-Rabīʻayn
Background
Step back into the sumptuous kitchens of the medieval Islamic world with this early collection of culinary wisdom. Savor recipes, tips, and gastronomic secrets that once delighted the palates of princes and poets alike.
Kindly made available by
NYU/ American University of Beirut
Khushkananj is a delightful example of medieval Middle Eastern pastry artistry, emerging from the kitchens of Mosul in the early 13th century. Ibn al-Karim, the recipe's author, was keenly interested in culinary sophistication, bringing together luxury ingredients like almonds, rosewater, and fine semolina infused with luscious sesame oil. Such recipes reflect both urban affluence and the cross-pollination of Arab, Persian, and possibly even Byzantine food traditions. Dishes similar to this pastry survived across the region in various forms, often gracing festive or celebratory tables.

In Ibn al-Karim's era, cooks would have worked with large, open mixing bowls for dough, heavy mortars and pestles to grind almonds and sugar, and wooden paddles for shaping the pastries. Dough might be left to rise covered by cloth near the hearth. Baking was typically done in domed clay ovens (tannūr or furn) or large communal brick ovens, lending an even, gentle heat for perfect browning. No electric appliances were used, and precision relied on experience, keen observation, and skilled hands.
Prep Time
25 mins
Cook Time
15 mins
Servings
16
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 1 lb 2 oz fine semolina (or substitute with all-purpose flour if not available)
- 6.3 oz pure toasted sesame oil (shīrj, or substitute with mild olive oil)
- 3.5 oz blanched almonds, ground
- 7 oz granulated sugar
- 2 tbsp rosewater
- Pinch of salt (optional, to taste)
Instructions
- To prepare Khushkananj as described by Ibn al-Karim, use fine semolina flour (about 1 lb 2 oz) and thoroughly mix it with 6.3 oz of toasted sesame oil (shīrj, or substitute with a mild extra-virgin olive oil if needed).
- Knead this mixture until a strong, cohesive dough forms, then cover and set aside in a warm place to ferment until visibly risen (1-2 hours).
- Shape the dough into rectangular discs.
- For the filling, blend 3.5 oz blanched almonds, 7 oz sugar, and enough rosewater (about 2 tablespoons) to create a fragrant paste.
- Place a portion of filling in the center of each disc, fold or gather as per tradition to enclose the filling, and seal well.
- Arrange the filled pieces on a baking sheet and bake in a preheated oven at 350°F until golden (about 15-20 minutes).
- Let cool before serving.
Estimated Calories
230 per serving
Cooking Estimates
You will need about 25 minutes to prepare the ingredients and shape the dough, plus 15 minutes to bake. The recipe makes about 16 servings, each with about 230 calories.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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