حبشية)
"Habashiyya"
From the treasured pages of Kitāb al-ṭabīkh
Written by Ibn al-Karīm, Muḥammad ibn al-Ḥasan

حبشية)
"١) صنعتها ان يقطع اللحم السمين اوساطاً ثم يطرح في القدر مع يسير من ملح وغمره ماء ويغلى وتؤخذ رغوته. فاذا قارب النضج القي عليه بصل مقطع مغسول بالماء الفاتر والملح وجزر مقشر قد اخرج ما في جوفه. ويرمى عليه الكسفرة اليابسة والكمون والدارصيني والمصطكى والفلفل. ثم يؤخذ من الزبيب الأسود قدر ما يحتاج اليه فيدق نعمأ، ثم يعرس بالماء ويصفى، ويؤخذ من مائه جزآن ومن الخل الجيد الحاذق جزء فيطرح في القدر. ويدق له يسير من الجوز ويعرس بالماء المذكور ويلقى فوقه. ويفرك في رأس القدر طاقات من نعنع يابس. وتترك القدر على النار حتى تهدأ. وترفع بعد ان تمسح جوانبها بخرقة نظيفة."
English Translation
"(1) To prepare it, cut fatty meat into medium pieces and put them in the pot with a little salt and cover with water. Bring to a boil and skim off any foam. When it is nearly cooked, add chopped onions that have been washed in lukewarm water and salt, and peeled carrots with their insides removed. Add dried coriander, cumin, cinnamon, mastic, and pepper. Take as much black raisins as needed, pound them finely, then soak them in water and strain. Use two parts of this raisin water and one part good sharp vinegar and add to the pot. Pound a small amount of walnuts, soak them in the same water, and add on top. Rub a few sprigs of dried mint at the top of the pot. Let the pot remain on the fire until it quietly simmers down. When done, wipe the sides of the pot with a clean cloth before serving."
Note on the Original Text
Medieval Arabic recipes, like this one, are written in a terse, almost poetic style. Quantities and timing were rarely specified, as the expected audience was already skilled in household management and could interpret instructions intuitively. Spelling was standardized only later, so ingredient names may vary slightly in manuscripts. Abbreviations and references to local produce or trade items (like mastic, raisins, or good vinegar) were common, and cooks often adapted recipes to available resources. The instructions unfold in a logical, sequential order, assuming a cook would understand processes such as skimming froth, soaking fruits, or cleaning vegetables. The focus is on the ‘essence’ of the dish—the harmonious balance of flavors and technique.

Title
Kitāb al-ṭabīkh (1200)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Ibn al-Karīm, Muḥammad ibn al-Ḥasan
Era
1200
Publisher
Maṭbaʻat Umm al-Rabīʻayn
Background
Step back into the sumptuous kitchens of the medieval Islamic world with this early collection of culinary wisdom. Savor recipes, tips, and gastronomic secrets that once delighted the palates of princes and poets alike.
Kindly made available by
NYU/ American University of Beirut
This recipe, known as 'Habashiyya' (حبشية), hails from a sophisticated medieval Arabic cookbook attributed to Ibn al-Karīm, composed in the 12th–13th century in Mosul (modern-day Iraq). The dish illustrates the complexity and elegance of Arab cuisine at the time, weaving together meat, fruit, and aromatic spices—a hallmark of the era's love for sweet and savory pairings. The manuscript survives in part thanks to its later printing in the early 20th century in Iraq, reflecting a vibrant culinary tradition in the urban centers of the medieval Islamic world. It showcases the cosmopolitan tastes of wealthy households and the use of imported spices and fruits, reflecting extensive trade networks and culinary exchanges.

The original cook would have used a large copper or clay pot ('qidra') over a wood or charcoal fire, stirring the stew with a wooden spoon. Chopping would be done using a sharp iron knife, while dried herbs and spices would be ground with a stone or metal mortar and pestle. Skimming froth required a broad flat spoon or ladle, and cloths for wiping the pot's rim ensured a neat presentation—an important sign of refinement. No precise measuring equipment existed, so proportions were gauged by eye or by simple kitchen vessels (bowls, cups, handfuls).
Prep Time
20 mins
Cook Time
1 hr
Servings
6
Ingredients
- 2.2 lbs fatty lamb or beef, cut into chunks
- 1.5 teaspoons salt
- 6–8 cups water
- 2 large onions, peeled and chopped
- 3 large carrots, peeled, cored, and sliced
- 2 teaspoons dried coriander
- 1.5 teaspoons ground cumin
- 1 stick (2-inch) cinnamon or 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
- 1/4 teaspoon ground mastic (or omit if unavailable)
- 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
- 3.5 oz black raisins (or dark raisins as substitute)
- 1/2 cup water (for soaking raisins)
- 1/4 cup good-quality vinegar
- 1 oz walnuts, roughly chopped
- 2 tablespoons dried mint
Instructions
- Start by cutting approximately 2.2 lbs of fatty lamb or beef into medium-sized chunks.
- Place the meat in a large pot, season with 1.5 teaspoons of salt, and add enough water to fully submerge the meat (about 6–8 cups).
- Bring it to a boil and skim any foam that rises to the top.
- Once the meat is nearly cooked—about 45 minutes—add 2 large onions, peeled and chopped, that have been washed in lukewarm salted water to remove sharpness.
- Peel and clean 3 large carrots, removing the cores, then add to the pot.
- Season the stew with 2 teaspoons dried coriander, 1.5 teaspoons ground cumin, a 2-inch stick of cinnamon (or 1 teaspoon ground), 1/4 teaspoon ground mastic, and 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper.
- Take 3.5 oz dark raisins (as a substitute for black raisins, if unavailable), pound until coarse, soak in 1/2 cup of water, then strain—the resulting raisin water will be used for the dish.
- Combine 2 parts of this raisin water with 1 part good-quality vinegar (about 1/3 cup in total), and add to the pot.
- Crush a small handful (about 1 oz) of walnuts, soak briefly in the raisin water, then add them as well.
- Finally, crumble 2 tablespoons of dried mint over the stew, let it simmer gently until flavors blend and meat is tender, about 15 more minutes.
- Wipe the sides of the pot clean before serving.
Estimated Calories
450 per serving
Cooking Estimates
It takes around 20 minutes to prepare all the ingredients, such as chopping the onions and carrots, cutting the meat, and soaking the raisins and walnuts. The dish needs about 1 hour to simmer until the meat is fully tender and the flavors are blended. Each serving contains an estimated 450 calories, and the recipe yields about 6 servings.
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