Petits-Pains De Marrons
"Chestnut Rolls"
From the treasured pages of Le pâtissier national et universel
Written by Belon, chef pâtissier de monseigneur le cardinal de C...

Petits-Pains De Marrons
"Sautez des marrons, et faites-les cuire à la vapeur, en les posant sur une claie au dessus d'un vase dans lequel vous tiendrez de l'eau en ébullition. Vous entourerez la claie avec un linge et le couvrirez, afin que la vapeur agisse plus promptement. Lorsque les marrons seront cuits, vous les émonderez, puis vous les pilerez avec un peu de beurre, et vous passerez au tamis la pâte qui en résultera. Si vous avez une livre de cette pâte, vous mettrez sur le tour une demi-livre de farine bien tamisée, vous ferez la fontaine, et vous mettrez dedans votre pâte de marrons, en y ajoutant un quarteron de beurre, une pincée de sel, et six onces de sucre en poudre. Pétrissez tous ces ingrédiens; lorsque vous aurez obtenu une pâte bien unie et ferme, vous couperez vos pains en forme de petites navettes, et vous les poserez sur une plaque beurrée; laissez-les sur cette plaque pendant une heure, puis vous les dorerez, et les ferez cuire au four doux."
English Translation
"Chestnut Rolls. Sauté the chestnuts and steam them by placing them on a rack over a vessel of boiling water. Wrap the rack with a cloth and cover it, so that the steam acts more quickly. When the chestnuts are cooked, peel them, then mash them with a little butter, and pass the resulting paste through a sieve. If you have one pound of this paste, add to it half a pound of well-sifted flour, make a well in the center, and place your chestnut paste inside, adding a quarter pound of butter, a pinch of salt, and six ounces of powdered sugar. Knead all these ingredients together; when you have obtained a smooth and firm dough, cut your rolls into the shape of small boat-like loaves, and place them on a buttered baking sheet; leave them on this sheet for an hour, then glaze them with egg wash, and bake them in a gentle oven."
Note on the Original Text
The recipe is written in the succinct, process-driven style of early 19th-century French pastry manuals. Quantities are described in livre, quarteron, and onces—old French weights, here converted for modern kitchens. The directions expect the reader to have experience with texture and dough handling, omitting details that today's recipes would standardize—like exact oven temperature or baking time. Ingredients such as chestnuts, butter, flour, and sugar were all staple ingredients, but their use in precise ratios reflects early professional pâtissier practice. Terms like 'pétrissez' (knead) and 'faites la fontaine' (make a well in the flour) are classic French technique references.

Title
Le pâtissier national et universel (1836)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Belon, chef pâtissier de monseigneur le cardinal de C...
Era
1836
Publisher
Impr. de Mme Huzard
Background
A delectable journey through the art of pastry, this 19th-century volume unveils modern inventions, secret techniques, and exquisite recipes from celebrated French and international pâtissiers—perfect for grand feasts, charming boutiques, and dainty petits fours.
Kindly made available by
Library of Congress
This recipe hails from the flourishing era of 19th-century French pâtisserie, specifically from 'Le pâtissier national et universel' (1836), a compendium assembled by renowned chef Belon. During this period, pâtissiers were rapidly innovating, drawing from both traditional and contemporary influences in ingredients and techniques. Chestnuts were widely celebrated in French sweet and savory baking—especially in autumn and winter, when they were abundantly available. These petits-pains de marrons reflect both the resourcefulness and the refinement of the era's pastry craft: transforming simple chestnuts into delicate, sweetened breads—likely enjoyed with coffee or tea in Parisian salons.

In the 1830s, steaming was done using a 'claie', a wooden or metal rack set above a vessel of boiling water, with the whole assembly topped with cloths to concentrate the steam. Chestnuts would be mashed using a mortar and pestle or heavy spoon, and the paste sieved through a wire or hair tamis (strainer) for smoothness. Doughs were mixed by hand on marble slabs or wooden tables. Baking was in masonry ovens, with trays greased with butter to prevent sticking. Brushing with egg was done using a simple feather or bundle of plant fibers.
Prep Time
1 hr 10 mins
Cook Time
1 hr
Servings
16
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 1 lb cooked, peeled chestnuts (fresh or vacuum-packed, unsweetened)
- 4.5 oz unsalted butter (plus extra for greasing tray)
- 8 oz plain (all-purpose) flour, sifted
- 6 oz caster sugar
- 1 pinch fine salt
- 1 egg, for glazing
Instructions
- Begin by steaming chestnuts (unshelled) over boiling water.
- Arrange them on a rack or steaming basket over a pot, covering all with a cloth to trap steam, for about 30-40 minutes or until tender.
- Peel and remove the inner skins while still warm.
- Mash the chestnuts thoroughly with a little unsalted butter until smooth, then push this paste through a fine sieve.
- Measure out 1 lb of this chestnut paste.
- On a clean work surface, make a ring of 8 oz of sifted plain (all-purpose) flour.
- Place the chestnut paste in the center, adding 4.5 oz of butter (softened), a generous pinch of salt, and 6 oz caster sugar.
- Knead gently until a unified, firm dough is formed; do not overwork.
- Shape the dough into small, oval rolls (about the size of a large walnut).
- Set them on a buttered baking tray, cover lightly, and let them rest for one hour.
- Brush with beaten egg for a golden finish.
- Bake in a moderate (320°F) oven for 20-25 minutes, until lightly golden.
Estimated Calories
220 per serving
Cooking Estimates
You’ll spend about 40 minutes cooking the chestnuts, then around 30 minutes mashing, mixing, and shaping the dough. The dough rests for 1 hour before baking for 20-25 minutes, so overall you’ll need around 2.5 hours all together.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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