To Make A Rare Frigacy Of Chickens, Pulletts Or Rabitts
From the treasured pages of Receipts in cookery and medicine 1700
Unknown Author

To Make A Rare Frigacy Of Chickens, Pulletts Or Rabitts
"When you haue cutt your chickens or pulletts into peices throw them into cold water and wash them in two cold waters til the bloody froth is pritty well gone from them then draine them well from the water, and take a pice of lard about the bridth of four fingers, and the lenght of one and put it in a fryeinge pan ouer the fier and let it melt a little then put a peice of butterr abt the bignys of two wallnutts if it be for ye quantity of one pullett if for more all must bee proportiond accordingly, when the butterr is almost milted throw in your meat and put to it a whole onyon two or 3: slids of mace, four or fiue cloues, a pritty deale of Salt and some whole pepper, and couer it close and let it boyle thus a quarter of an hower then put in as much water as will couer it and serue for liquor enough to boyle it, couer it close & let it boyle til you haue only liquor left enough to make: take then take eight or nyne spoonefulls of thick creame, put to it the yolks of three eggs beat it togeither, put in a spoonefull or two of the juce of sowre graps, if you haue not that some juce of Lemons & a little grated nutmegg some parsly cutt very small, mix it all togeither and when your meat is enough and but a little liquor left take it off the fier and put this in and shake it about as you put it in and keep it shakinge for a little tyme til its thickn'd but sit it not on the fier after this is in for that will turn it, if you haue not lard use butterr in the roome of it wch is full as good, when 'tis three parts don take from it kild mushroomeel and fry'd Sweete brids."
Note on the Original Text
The recipe is written in the conversational, almost stream-of-consciousness style typical of early modern manuscripts. There is little separation of ingredient lists and method, and quantities are described relative to everyday objects ('the bignys of two walnuts') rather than modern measures. Spelling is highly variable ('boyle,' 'fryeinge,' 'milted'), reflecting pre-standardization of English. The term 'frigacy' is an old form of 'fricassee,' and 'pullets' denotes young hens. Ingredients like 'juce of sowre grapes' meant verjuice, now uncommon but substitutable with lemon juice. Directions err on the side of caution with eggs and cream, warning not to return the finished sauce to the fire, lest it curdle—showing an intuitive grasp of emulsion technique.

Title
Receipts in cookery and medicine 1700 (1700)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Unknown
Era
1700
Publisher
Unknown
Background
Step into the kitchen of the early 18th century, where this charming culinary manuscript tempts tastebuds with recipes and secrets from a bygone era. A delicious journey for both the curious cook and the history lover.
Kindly made available by
Folger Shakespeare Library
This recipe hails from an early 18th-century English manuscript, a time when fricassees (or 'frigacies,' as styled here) were fashionable dishes for both the gentry and the aspiring middle classes. 'V.b.273' refers to a household collection of recipes from around 1700, a period of transition where French culinary sophistication met English domestic practicality. The dish showcases a gentle, white stew method—reflecting emerging trends away from heavy spicing and elaborate sauces, towards lighter, cream- and egg-thickened dishes. Such fricassees would have graced refined tables, possibly served as part of a grand first course. Using either chicken or rabbit would have depended on local availability and taste.

Cooks of the period would have prepared this recipe over an open hearth, using a wide shallow pan (often cast iron or copper) for frying and simmering, with a tightly fitting lid to regulate heat and moisture. Wooden spoons, large knives for jointing poultry, and bowl or mortar for mixing egg and cream would have been essential. The absence of precise heat control meant careful watching and intuitive timing were vital skills. For separating eggs and mixing the finishing sauce, small bowls and a whisk (usually made of twigs) would be at hand. The final shaking or tossing of the pan ensured the sauce did not curdle, a common concern in pre-thermometer times.
Prep Time
15 mins
Cook Time
45 mins
Servings
6
Ingredients
- 1 whole chicken (about 3 lbs), cut into 8 pieces (substitute with rabbit or young pullet if desired)
- 2.5 oz lard (or substitute with unsalted butter)
- 1.75 oz unsalted butter
- 1 whole onion, peeled
- 3 slices mace (or 1/2 teaspoon ground mace as substitute)
- 5 whole cloves
- 2 teaspoons sea salt
- 1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
- 2 cups water (as needed)
- 1/2 cup heavy cream
- 3 egg yolks
- 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice (or 2 tablespoons sour grape juice/verjuice if available)
- 1/4 teaspoon grated nutmeg
- 2 tablespoons fresh parsley, finely chopped
- Optional: 3.5 oz mushrooms (briefly blanched) and 3.5 oz sweetbreads (blanched and fried), for garnish
Instructions
- Cut one whole chicken (about 3 lbs) into serving pieces.
- Rinse the pieces in two changes of cold water until the water runs mostly clear, then drain thoroughly.
- In a large frying pan or shallow casserole over medium heat, melt 2.5 oz lard (or substitute with the same amount of unsalted butter) together with 1.75 oz unsalted butter.
- Once melted, add the chicken pieces, 1 whole peeled onion, 3 slices of mace, 5 whole cloves, 2 teaspoons sea salt, and 1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns.
- Cover and cook gently for about 15 minutes, allowing the flavors to develop without browning.
- Add enough water to just cover the meat (about 2 cups, depending on your pan), bring to a simmer, cover again, and cook until the chicken is tender and the liquid has reduced to a sauce consistency—about 30 minutes.
- When only a small amount of liquid remains, remove from the heat.
- In a bowl, whisk together 1/2 cup heavy cream, 3 egg yolks, the juice of half a lemon (or 2 tablespoons verjuice, or sour grape juice if available), 1/4 teaspoon grated nutmeg, and 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley.
- Quickly stir this mixture into the hot chicken, shaking or gently stirring the pan off the heat until the sauce thickens—do not return to the heat, or the eggs may scramble.
- Serve immediately.
- Traditionally, 'kild mushrooms' and fried 'sweetbreads' could be added towards the end.
Estimated Calories
520 per serving
Cooking Estimates
This recipe takes about 15 minutes to prepare and about 45 minutes to cook. Each serving is around 520 calories. The recipe serves 6 people.
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