Cheese Cakes
From the treasured pages of Receipts in cookery and medicine 1700
Unknown Author

Cheese Cakes
"Take 5 pints of new milke & put Runnett to it when its comme brake it & gather it in a thick Culender to be dry put into it a pound of fresh butterr well washed from the salt take the youlks of 6 eggs but 3 whites half a pound of Corrans & halfe a pound of suger as much salt nuttmeg Cloves & Mace as will season it & some Rose water then make ye Past as good as you can & ye cakes very shallow bind slaws of whit paper about ye so they doe not fall in the oven put in ye stuff as they goe in the oven bake them a litle browne take them out haveing ready a pound of fresh butterr melted & Rose water put this upon them & sift suger on them set them in to Ice but not to brown."
Note on the Original Text
The recipe language is characteristic of early modern English, full of abbreviations, phonetic spellings, and period punctuation (e.g. 'milke', 'Runnett', 'Corrans', 'suger', 'Nuttmeg', 'halfe', 'youlks'). Quantities are sometimes imprecise, relying on the cook’s judgment and experience. Instructions hop between preparation steps, with some steps implied rather than stated, since the audience was presumed to have foundational knowledge of cheesemaking and pastry. Spelling was not standardized, so ‘ye’ is used for 'the', and verbs like 'brake' (break) capture the oral tradition of recipe sharing.

Title
Receipts in cookery and medicine 1700 (1700)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Unknown
Era
1700
Publisher
Unknown
Background
Step into the kitchen of the early 18th century, where this charming culinary manuscript tempts tastebuds with recipes and secrets from a bygone era. A delicious journey for both the curious cook and the history lover.
Kindly made available by
Folger Shakespeare Library
This delightful recipe hails from circa 1700, a time when home cheesemaking and elaborate pastries were marks of a well-run household. Originating from an English manuscript (V.b.273), these cheese cakes are more akin to individual tartlets, combining freshly made curds, eggs, sugar, and currants. Such recipes were common in upper but also aspiring middling class homes, where the celebration of dairy and spice symbolized both agricultural abundance and access to luxury imports like spices and sugar. The cakes would often feature at special teas or suppers, reflecting both artistry and hospitality.

In the original kitchen, the curds would be formed using a large pot over a fire, strained through a linen cloth or a coarse sieve (referred to as a 'thick culender'). Butter was hand-churned and eggs gathered fresh that morning. Currants and spices would be measured by experienced eyes and fingers. Pastry was rolled with a wooden pin and tarts shaped in small metal or ceramic pans. Thin slips of paper (or 'slaws') protected the delicate rims from collapse. Baking took place in a wood-fired oven, and a small pan was used to melt and flavor the butter for finishing.
Prep Time
30 mins
Cook Time
20 mins
Servings
12
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 5 pints fresh whole milk
- 1/2 teaspoon liquid rennet (or vegetarian rennet alternative)
- 8 ounces unsalted butter (plus extra for finishing, about 8 ounces more)
- 6 egg yolks
- 3 egg whites
- 2 ounces currants (can substitute with sultanas or raisins if unavailable)
- 4 ounces granulated sugar (plus extra confectioners' sugar for dusting)
- Pinch of salt
- 1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
- 1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
- 1/2 teaspoon ground mace
- 1 tablespoon rose water
- Shortcrust pastry (prepared from about 2 cups plain flour, 4.5 ounces butter, pinch of salt, and a little cold water)
- Parchment paper (for lining or tying loosely around pastry, optional)
Instructions
- To recreate these early 18th-century Cheese Cakes, begin by gently heating 5 pints (2.85 liters) of fresh whole milk.
- Add rennet (around 1/2 teaspoon liquid rennet or a vegetarian alternative), allow the milk to curdle, and then strain through a fine sieve or cheesecloth until quite dry.
- Transfer the curds to a bowl and work in 8 ounces (1 cup) of unsalted butter, softened and washed if salted.
- Beat together the yolks of 6 eggs and 3 whites, and add to the curd mixture.
- Incorporate 2 ounces (1/2 cup) of currants, 4 ounces (1/2 cup) of sugar, a small pinch of salt, and a scant 1/2 teaspoon each of freshly grated nutmeg, ground cloves, and ground mace.
- Stir in a tablespoon of rose water for fragrance.
- Prepare a shortcrust pastry with modern flour, butter, and a little water, rolling it out thinly and lining small tart tins with the pastry.
- Fill each tart shallowly (about 3/4 inch deep).
- For authenticity, you may tie strips of parchment around the edges to prevent collapse.
- Bake at 350°F (180°C) until just golden, about 18–22 minutes.
- Remove from the oven, pour over a little more melted unsalted butter mixed with a splash of rose water, and dust the tops liberally with confectioners' sugar.
- Let them set before serving.
Estimated Calories
390 per serving
Cooking Estimates
It takes about 30 minutes to prepare the ingredients, curdle and strain the milk, make the pastry, and assemble the tarts. Baking takes about 20 minutes. This recipe makes about 12 small cheese cakes, each about the size of a small tart. Each serving is approximately 390 calories.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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