To Make A Dish Of Tender Curds

This recipe comes from the turn of the 18th century, a time when households commonly made their own dairy products, including curds and cream. In early modern England, dishes like these were enjoyed as light desserts or comforting snacks, especially by the gentry. The compilers of these manuscripts, such as Mrs. Johnston, were often ladies of the household, keen to record and perfect the art of cookery passed down through generations. The recipe reflects a domestic setting where milk was fresh from the dairy, and sweet spices like cinnamon were prized additions.

Historically, the milk would have been heated over an open fire or hearth, likely in a cast iron or copper pan. Once curdled, curds would be beaten with a mortar and pestle—an essential tool for fine softening. The finished curds would be piled onto a faience or silver serving plate (referred to as a 'Coam plate'), before being lavishly garnished.