To Dress A Lambs Head
From the treasured pages of Receipts for cookery and pastry work
Written by Mrs. Johnston
To Dress A Lambs Head
"Split the head and par-boil it, take out the Brains and the tongue, take Yolks of eggs and rub all over the head, then take grated bread, parsley, Black pepper, Jamaica pepper, and strew it over the head, set it before a fire till it Broil & be Crisp, then mix the Brains with a little Vinegar, some grated bread, minced parsley, and egg Baten, and a little flower, mix all well together and fry them like little pan cakes, then take the Lambs pluck, mince it very fine and take a quarter a pound of suet, a mulatekin of strong broth, 3 or 4 spoonfuls of white wine, a little Vinegar, spices and grated bread, mix all together, let it boil, then take the tongue, cut it in two and cut the liver in thin Collops, and fry them Crisp, then take sippets of tosted-bread, lay the head in the midst of the Dish, put the Stewed pluck about it, lay one half of the tongue on each side of the plate and garnish it with fryed Brains, Liver & sippets of bread, & serve it up."
Note on the Original Text
Recipes of this era use sparse, run-on instructions, expecting an experienced cook to fill in the blanks—cooking times, measurements, and temperatures are rarely specified. The spelling ('Broil', 'Yolks', 'Collops', 'Baten', etc.) reflects contemporary usage or transcription, and terms like 'pluck' (all internal organs) and 'collops' (slices) are now archaic. Lists of actions and ingredients are often intermixed, requiring some culinary decoding by the modern reader. Clarifications: 'Jamaica pepper' is known today as allspice; 'flower' is flour; 'mulatekin' likely refers to a measure or an archaic vessel, but broth suffices.
Title
Receipts for cookery and pastry work (1700)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Mrs. Johnston
Era
1700
Publisher
Unknown
Background
A delightful compilation of 18th-century recipes gathered by Mrs. Johnston herself, promising a charming journey through the flavors and culinary traditions of the early 1700s.
Kindly made available by
Folger Shakespeare Library
This recipe hails from early 18th-century England, a time when nose-to-tail eating was not only common but celebrated. Lamb's head, along with its internal organs (known collectively as 'pluck'), was a prized ingredient, signaling thrift, resourcefulness, and culinary skill. Mrs. Johnston’s collection offers a window into the daily and festive cookery of the Georgian household, often reliant on open fires, basic implements, and creative use of every part of the animal. The interplay of boiling, roasting, and frying speaks to the varied techniques favored in well-equipped kitchens of the gentry but would also be practiced, in simpler versions, in humbler homes.
Cooks in the 1700s would have used a large cauldron or pot for boiling, a sharp cleaver for splitting and chopping, and a heavy frying pan (often cast iron) for sautéing and frying. Broiling was done before the open fire, using a spit or grill, with the cook actively basting and turning food. Toast was made on a toasting fork or metal grid over the coals. Fine sieves or graters would be used for breadcrumbs, and a large trencher or serving platter for assembling the final dish.
Prep Time
40 mins
Cook Time
2 hrs
Servings
4
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 1 lamb's head, split
- Salt, for boiling
- 2 egg yolks, beaten
- 3.5 oz fresh white breadcrumbs
- 2 tablespoons fresh parsley, chopped
- 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
- 1/2 teaspoon ground allspice (or Jamaican pepper, if available)
- 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
- 1 egg, beaten
- 1 tablespoon wheat flour (plain/all-purpose)
- 4 oz beef or lamb suet, finely chopped (or 2 tablespoons vegetable shortening as substitute)
- 1/2 cup strong beef or lamb broth (stock)
- 1/4 cup dry white wine
- Additional black pepper and allspice, to taste
- 4 slices good bread, for toasting
- Vegetable oil, for frying
Instructions
- Begin by splitting a lamb's head in half and parboiling it in salted water for about 20 minutes.
- Remove the brains and tongue.
- Pat the head dry, and brush it with beaten egg yolks.
- Sprinkle generously with fresh breadcrumbs, chopped parsley, ground black pepper, and ground allspice (substituting for Jamaica pepper).
- Place the head cut-side up under a hot grill (broiler), or roast in a hot oven (425°F) until the surface is golden and crisp.
- Meanwhile, mash the brains with a splash of white wine vinegar, some more breadcrumbs, chopped parsley, a beaten egg, and a tablespoon of flour.
- Form into small pancakes and fry in hot oil until golden.
- Mince the lamb's lungs, heart, and liver (known as the pluck).
- Sauté with about 4 ounces of beef suet, 1/2 cup of rich lamb or beef stock, 3–4 tablespoons of dry white wine, a little vinegar, spices (such as black pepper and allspice), and extra breadcrumbs.
- Simmer until cooked through and thickened.
- Slice the tongue and liver thinly and fry until crisp.
- Toast thick slices of bread.
- Arrange the split head on a platter, surround with the stewed offal and arrange the brain fritters, tongue slices, fried liver, and toast artistically around the platter.
- Serve hot.
Estimated Calories
850 per serving
Cooking Estimates
Preparing this traditional dish takes time because you need to parboil and roast the lamb’s head, make the brain fritters, stew the offal, and fry the slices. Expect to spend a while in the kitchen, but most of it is hands-on and worth the effort for a classic presentation.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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