To Make Almond Jumbals
From the treasured pages of Receipt book of Rebeckah Winche
Written by Rebecca Winch

To Make Almond Jumbals
"Take half a pound of almonds blanched, & half a pound of double refine suger beaten & sersed beat the almonds small & mixe them wth the suger & when it is beaten, put in half a spoonfull of gumdragõ steeped, & dissolved in rose water, & the whites of one egge beaten to froth. & a few corriander seeds mingled well together set it on a soft fier till it grow pritty thick then take it off the fier, & lay it on a clean paper & beat it wth a roling pin until it be like a soft past; then role them in fine suger into knots; & lay them on papers oyld wth sweet oyle & put them in an ourn; & as soon as thay are throughly risen take them out befor thay bee harde the cakes are the same only leave out the gum"
Note on the Original Text
This recipe is written in the terse, practical style characteristic of seventeenth-century manuscripts—intended for experienced household cooks familiar with kitchen routines. Spelling reflects Early Modern English conventions ('oyld' for oiled, 'suger' for sugar, and 'fier' for fire), and quantities are given in pounds and spoonfuls, with the expectation that sizing would be intuitive. Punctuation is minimal, with many instructions running together, and steps are implied rather than enumerated; the recipe assumes the reader knows how to interpret kitchen processes such as 'set it on a soft fier' and 'beat it with a rolling pin'.

Title
Receipt book of Rebeckah Winche (1666)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Rebecca Winch
Era
1666
Publisher
Unknown
Background
Step into the 17th-century kitchen with Rebecca Winch, where hearty feasts and time-honored recipes whisper secrets of early English cooking. From savory pies to delicate sweets, this charming volume offers a sumptuous glimpse into culinary history.
Kindly made available by
Folger Shakespeare Library
This recipe hails from late seventeenth-century England, specifically from Rebecca Winch's handwritten collection, dated around 1666. Almond Jumbals were a festive treat, enjoyed at tables of the well-to-do, and reflect both continental influences and local English tastes. Such recipes were often copied among households and adapted over generations, signaling the slow convergence of medieval spiced confectionery and the emerging fashion for subtle, sweet biscuits. The inclusion of gums, rosewater, and spices like coriander reflects the luxurious pantry of an upper-class kitchen—ingredients that must have traveled far before reaching the country house larder.

Cooks of the era would have used a large mortar and pestle for grinding almonds and sugar, a brass or copper pan for gentle heating over a coal or wood fire, and robust rolling pins for forming the paste. Parchment or stiff white paper would be used to lay out the jumbals, often brushed with clarified butter or fine oil. The baking itself would take place in a brick oven, heated by burning wood and carefully managed to achieve a gentle, steady heat.
Prep Time
25 mins
Cook Time
15 mins
Servings
20
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 8 ounces blanched almonds
- 8 ounces icing sugar (double refined sugar)
- 1/2 tablespoon (about 0.25 fl oz) gum arabic (or substitute with powdered gelatin or omit as per 'cakes' variation)
- 1 tablespoon (0.5 fl oz) rose water
- 1 egg white
- 1 teaspoon (about 1/16 oz) whole coriander seeds
- Extra icing sugar for dusting/shaping
- Sweet or neutral oil (such as almond or grapeseed)
Instructions
- Begin by blanching 8 ounces of almonds (pour boiling water over them, slip off the skins), then grind them finely.
- Mix the almonds with 8 ounces of icing sugar (double refined sugar).
- Separately, dissolve about 1/2 tablespoon (about 0.25 fl oz) of gum arabic in 1 tablespoon (0.5 fl oz) of rosewater until fully blended.
- Beat the white of one egg to froth.
- Combine all together, adding a teaspoon (approx.
- 1/16 oz) of whole coriander seeds.
- Cook the mixture gently in a saucepan over low heat, stirring constanty, until it becomes thick (like soft marzipan).
- Remove from the heat, place onto parchment paper, and use a rolling pin to knead and soften the paste.
- Roll peices of dough in additional icing sugar, shape into knots, and place on parchment that’s oiled lightly with a neutral, mild oil (like grapeseed or almond).
- Bake at 320°F (160°C) until just risen and set, but not fully hard—think soft and chewy.
- Remove promptly.
- For 'cakes' (cookies), simply omit the gum arabic.
Estimated Calories
80 per serving
Cooking Estimates
This recipe takes about 25 minutes to prepare and 15 minutes to bake. Each batch makes around 20 cookies, with each cookie containing roughly 80 calories.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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