Recipe Manuscript

To Dress A Cods Head

Name: To Dress A Cods Head
Prep time: PTPT1H
Cook time: PTPT1H10M
Yield: 8
Cuisine: European
Ingredients: 1 cod head (1–1.5 kg); 75 g coarse sea salt; 3 liters water (for boiling); 250 ml strong beef or fish stock; 250 ml dry white wine; 1 liter oysters (~1 kg in shells or 450 g shucked); 1 liter shrimp (about 500 g peeled); 3 anchovy fillets (or 15 g anchovy paste); 2 shallots, finely chopped; 6 egg yolks; 225 g unsalted butter; 1 loaf white bread, thickly sliced; 3 tbsp capers, drained; 200 g small white fish fillets, fried (such as whiting or sole; substitute with any mild white fish); 100 g fried oysters (from above portion or additional); 1–2 lemons, thinly sliced

1673

From the treasured pages of Receipt book of Penelope Jephson

Written by Penelope Patrick

Renaissance (1400 - 1700)European Advanced Dinner Lunch

Original Recipe • 1673

Original Manuscript(circa Renaissance, 1400 - 1700)

As inscribed by the original author's hand, transcribed with care by Lost Kitchen Scrolls

To Dress A Cods Head

"Wash yr head very clean & salt it for an houre yn boyle it till it is enough in such liquor as you doe other fish, for sauce take halfe a pint of strong gravy & halfe a pint of whitewine, a quart of oysters, another of shrimps, put thes into a sauce pan with sum of the liquor you boyle it in & 3 anchoves, 2 shalotts, thicken this with ye yolks of 6 eggs, a pound of butterr lay larg sippetts of whit bread wth shed capers on ym between your sippetts lay litle fish fryed & elle & oysters fryed & slices of lemmon send it up hott, & draine it well before you put yr sauce to it"

Note on the Original Text

The recipe is written in the direct, abbreviated prose common to early modern English household manuscripts, assuming an experienced cook’s knowledge. Spellings like 'yr' (your), 'ye' (the), 'sippetts' (crustless pieces of bread), and 'boyle' (boil) are period-typical and reflect both shorthand and variable spelling conventions. Quantities are sometimes loose ('sum of the liquor'), and instructions jump between components, with minimal guidance on timing. Despite the lack of modern precision, the intent is clear: create a rich, layered dish by assembling boiled fish, complex sauce, fried garnishes, and bread—culminating in an impressive, flavor-packed centerpiece.

Modern Kitchen Interpretation

Recipe's Origin

Receipt book of Penelope Jephson - Click to view recipe in book

Title

Receipt book of Penelope Jephson (1673)

You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome

Writer

Penelope Patrick

Era

1673

Publisher

Unknown

Background

Step back into the sumptuous kitchens of the late 17th century with Penelope Patrick’s culinary collection—a feast of historic recipes, secret tips, and the irresistible flavors of Restoration England all bound together in a handwritten treasure.

Kindly made available by

Folger Shakespeare Library

Historical Background of the Recipe

Learn about old traditions

This recipe hails from late 17th-century England and is attributed to Penelope Patrick (1646–1725), falling between 1671 and 1675. During this period, fish such as cod were both staple and delicacy, often featured in elaborate presentations for the gentry. Using both the cod head and a rich, multi-layered sauce reflects both thrift and the period’s love of display at the table. The recipe also illustrates the era’s interest in complex flavorings, such as gravies, anchovies, and the increasing presence of imported ingredients like capers and lemon. Dishes like this would have been served at banquets or special occasions, where showing off skilled cookery with imported shellfish and refined sauce techniques was a mark of status and hospitality.

Culinary Tools when the Recipe was Crafted

Tools and techniques from kitchens of old

The cook would have used large cauldrons or heavy metal pots set over an open hearth for boiling the fish. A strainer or slotted spoon would help lift out the cod head. Sauce preparation required a smaller saucepan, likely of copper or pewter, for gently heating and thickening. Toasting bread (for sippets) would have been done either on a metal grill over the coals or in an early oven. For frying fish and oysters, a deep frying pan or small cauldron filled with animal fat or clarified butter would have been standard. Knives were used for slicing, and wooden or pewter platters for assembling the final dish.

Modern Kitchen Adaptation

Ingredients and techniques for today's cooks

ounces, cups, Fahrenheit

Prep Time

1 hr

Cook Time

1 hr 10 mins

Servings

We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!

Ingredients

1 cod head (2.2–3.3 lb)
2.5 oz coarse sea salt
3 quarts water (for boiling)
1 cup strong beef or fish stock
1 cup dry white wine
1 quart oysters (~2.2 lb in shells or 1 lb shucked)
1 quart shrimp (about 1.1 lb peeled)
3 anchovy fillets (or 1/2 oz anchovy paste)
2 shallots, finely chopped
6 egg yolks
8 oz unsalted butter
1 loaf white bread, thickly sliced
3 tbsp capers, drained
7 oz small white fish fillets, fried (such as whiting or sole; substitute with any mild white fish)
3.5 oz fried oysters (from above portion or additional)
1–2 lemons, thinly sliced

Instructions

Start by thoroughly cleaning a cod's head (about 2.2–3.3 lb) and rubbing it with coarse salt.
Let it sit for 1 hour to draw out moisture and enhance flavor.
Next, rinse off the salt and boil the head in a large pot of water (about 3 quarts), similar to how you would poach any white fish, until the flesh is tender (approximately 30–40 minutes).
While the fish is cooking, prepare the sauce.
In a saucepan, combine 1 cup strong beef or fish stock and 1 cup dry white wine.
Add 1 quart of drained oysters and 1 quart of peeled shrimp.
Stir in 3 anchovy fillets (or about 1/2 oz anchovy paste), 2 finely chopped shallots, and a few tablespoons of the cod’s poaching liquid.
Gently heat all together, then thicken the sauce off the heat with the yolks of 6 eggs and 8 oz unsalted butter, whisked in gradually to make a glossy, rich sauce.
To serve, arrange thick slices of white bread (sippets) toasted until golden brown, scattered with capers.
Between the sippets, add small pieces of fried white fish (such as whiting or sole) and fried oysters, as well as slices of lemon.
Drain the cod's head well, place it on a serving platter, and pour the hot sauce over the ensemble.
Serve immediately, hot.

Estimated Calories

750 per serving

Cooking Estimates

Preparing this dish takes some time because you need to salt and rest the cod's head, then cook it and make the rich seafood sauce. The actual cooking takes a bit over an hour, and you’ll need extra time before that to clean, salt, chop, and prepare all ingredients. Each serving is filling, especially with the bread and seafood, and the recipe is designed to serve a group.

As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.

We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.