Crystal Jelly
From the treasured pages of Receipt book of Mary Hookes
Written by Mary Hookes

Crystal Jelly
"Take four Calves feet, & flea them in fair Spring water, lay it wth a knuckle of veall, & shift it in half a Dosen waters, take out ye fat, betwixt ye calves feet, but Doe not break ye boons, for if you Doe, ye marrow will staine your Jelly, when you have soaked, & pickled them very well, & clean, boyle them very tender, in Spring water, & when they are boyle'd take them up, & use them at your pleasure to eat, & let ye broth stand till it be cold, then take away ye toppe, & botam, & put ye cleer in to a Pipkin, put in to it half a pound of whight sugar-Candy, 3 drops of oyll of nuttmeggs, & as much oyl of mace, & a graine of musk, & so let it boyle leasurely a quarter of an houre, then let it run through a Jelly bag into a silver dish, or Jelly pot and when it is cold slice it, this is the best way to make Cristall Jelly."
Note on the Original Text
The recipe is written in late 17th-century English, characterized by spelling variants ('flea' for 'flay', 'boyle'd' for 'boiled') and period punctuation. Instructions assume basic culinary literacy and do not specify exact measures, relying instead on cooks' intuition and the conventions of the time. Clarity was a marker of success for jellies, and removing fat and marrow was crucial; hence, special emphasis is put on not breaking bones. The reference to multiple waters reflects period hygiene practices. Musk, now rarely used, once signaled luxury. Essential oils have been modernized to grated spices, as the former are often unavailable or unsafe for culinary use today.

Title
Receipt book of Mary Hookes (1700)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Mary Hookes
Era
1700
Publisher
Unknown
Background
A delightful voyage into the kitchens of the late 17th and early 18th centuries, this book teems with forgotten flavors, aromatic recipes, and the elegant wisdom of early modern cookery. A treasure trove for culinary adventurers craving a taste of the past!
Kindly made available by
Folger Shakespeare Library
This recipe originates from manuscripts attributed to Mary Hookes, active around 1675 to 1725. 'Cristall Jelly' was a symbol of culinary refinement in the English grand households of the late 17th and early 18th centuries. Clear, shimmering jellies, either sweet or savory, were prized for their perceived medicinal benefits and their visual impact on banquet tables. Only the affluent could regularly afford the quantities of meat and sugar required to make such a dish, while the inclusion of musk points to early-modern Europe's aristocratic tastes for perfumed and exotic spices.

The preparation would have relied on open hearths with large iron or copper cauldrons for simmering meats, and various earthenware or metal basins for soaking. The broth was strained through thick cloths or specialized jelly bags, likely constructed from tightly-woven linen, to achieve clarity. For flavoring, small glass bottles held precious essential oils and musk, while serving dishes ranged from silver platters and glass bowls to delicate pottery. Knives for cleaning, ladles for skimming fat, and wooden spoons for stirring completed the toolkit.
Prep Time
40 mins
Cook Time
4 hrs
Servings
12
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 4 calves' feet (about 4.5 lbs)
- 1 veal knuckle (about 2.2 lbs)
- 3-4 quarts fresh water
- 8 oz white rock sugar (substitution: white granulated sugar)
- 3 drops nutmeg essential oil (substitution: 1/4 tsp freshly grated nutmeg, strained)
- 3 drops mace essential oil (substitution: 1/4 tsp freshly grated mace, strained)
- 1 grain musk (substitution: omit, or use 1 drop rosewater for aroma)
Instructions
- Begin by thoroughly cleaning four calves' feet (about 4.5 lbs) and one knuckle of veal (around 2.2 lbs) in fresh, cold water.
- Remove any excess fat between the calves’ feet without breaking the bones, as marrow leakage can cloud the jelly.
- Rinse the meats by soaking and changing the water several times (ideally six times).
- Once well cleaned, simmer the calves' feet and veal in a large pot of fresh water (about 3-4 quarts) until very tender—this will take 3-4 hours.
- After boiling, remove the meat and strain the broth.
- Allow the broth to cool completely, then lift off any fat from the top and remove any sediment from the bottom.
- Strain the clear broth into a clean saucepan.
- For flavor and clarity, add about 8 oz of white rock sugar (substitute: white granulated sugar if unavailable), three drops each of nutmeg and mace essential oil (substitute: a quarter teaspoon of freshly grated nutmeg and mace each, infused and strained), and a single grain of musk (substitute: omit or use a drop of rosewater for aroma).
- Bring the mixture to a gentle boil for 15 minutes.
- Next, pour the liquid through a fine jelly bag or muslin into a serving dish or jelly mould.
- Cool completely until set, then slice to serve.
Estimated Calories
170 per serving
Cooking Estimates
You will spend some time cleaning and soaking the meat before cooking, and then several hours simmering. After cooking, you need to cool and strain the broth before the final boil and setting. Each serving has around 170 calories. The whole recipe will give you about 12 servings.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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