Recipe Manuscript

Guiso De Agachonas Ó Tórtolas

Name: Guiso De Agachonas Ó Tórtolas
Prep time: PTPT20M
Cook time: PTPT1H40M
Yield: 6
Cuisine: American
Ingredients: 4–6 whole doves or squabs (alternatively, Cornish game hens or small quail), cleaned; 100 g pork lard (or unsalted butter as substitute); 1 French baguette (about 250 g), sliced; 6 garlic cloves; 500 ml poultry or game broth (or chicken stock as substitute); 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon; 2 whole cloves or pinch ground clove; 1/2 tsp ground black pepper; 0.1 g saffron threads; 100 ml dry sherry (or dry white wine as substitute); 2 eggs, beaten; 1 small onion, thinly sliced

"Guiso De Agachonas Or Turtle Doves"

1890

From the treasured pages of La Cocina en el Bolsillo No. 9

Written by Antonio Vanegas Arroyo

Age of Gastronomy (1800 - 1900)American Intermediate Dinner Lunch

Original Recipe • 1890

Original Manuscript(circa Age of Gastronomy, 1800 - 1900)

As inscribed by the original author's hand, transcribed with care by Lost Kitchen Scrolls

Guiso De Agachonas Ó Tórtolas

"Se asan las agachonas enteras y destripadas y después se fríen en manteca, según la cantidad de ellas se rebana pan francés y también se fríe, y con la manteca en que se fríe el pan se ponen á freír unos dientes de ajo; se ponen en un platón las rebanadas de aquel pan á que hagan una capa, se les echa un poquito de caldo del en que hirvieron las tórtolas y todo se fríe en manteca, echándole su canela, clavo, pimienta y poco azafrán sobre la capa del pan; después se ponen las agachonas á que hagan otra capa, y se les va echando el caldo á que quede como sopa; se pone el platón encima de una olla que esté hirviendo á fin de que se consuma, dejándolo por lo menos hora y media, y antes de ir á la mesa se le agrega un poco de vino jerez, huevo y cebolla rebanada."

English Translation

"The agachonas (or turtle doves) are roasted whole and cleaned, then fried in lard. Depending on the quantity, slices of French bread are cut and also fried. With the lard used to fry the bread, some cloves of garlic are fried. The slices of bread are placed on a platter to form a layer, a little broth from where the doves boiled is poured over, and everything is fried in lard, adding cinnamon, cloves, pepper, and a little saffron on top of the bread layer. Then, the turtle doves are placed on top to make another layer, and broth is added so it ends up like a soup. The platter is set over a pot of boiling water so it cooks down for at least an hour and a half. Before serving, a little sherry wine, egg, and sliced onion are added."

Note on the Original Text

Recipes of the late 19th century rarely detailed precise quantities or cooking times, as seen here—measurements were based on intuition and experience rather than strict written rules. Instructions are sequential and assume knowledge of fundamental kitchen processes like frying in lard, layering in platters, and simmering over indirect heat. Spelling is in period Mexican Spanish, with terms like 'agachonas' (now more commonly 'palomas torcaces' or 'tórtolas' for doves), 'manteca' (lard), and 'platón' (a large dish). Recipe directions emphasize method and order, often omitting exact proportions because home cooks would adjust to taste and family size.

Modern Kitchen Interpretation

Recipe's Origin

La Cocina en el Bolsillo No. 9 - Click to view recipe in book

Title

La Cocina en el Bolsillo No. 9 (1890)

You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome

Writer

Antonio Vanegas Arroyo

Era

1890

Publisher

Unknown

Background

A delightful culinary companion from the late 19th century, 'La Cocina en el Bolsillo No. 9' serves up a savory selection of recipes and kitchen wisdom, inviting readers to explore the flavors and techniques that charmed Mexican households. Pocket-sized but bursting with gastronomic inspiration, this volume is a tasteful blend of practicality and tradition.

Kindly made available by

University of Texas at San Antonio

Historical Background of the Recipe

Learn about old traditions

This recipe hails from late 19th-century Mexico City, as documented in 'La Cocina en el Bolsillo No. 9' by Antonio Vanegas Arroyo in 1890. The publication catered to urban households curious about diverse and sometimes luxurious preparations, blending indigenous and Spanish culinary elements. In this era, small game birds like turtledoves were attainable by the middle classes, and this dish reflects both the resourcefulness and elegance of fin-de-siècle Mexican kitchens. The use of rich lard, bread as a substantial base, and aromatic spices like cinnamon and saffron speaks both to the Spanish legacy and the creole taste for layered, slow-cooked, almost festive casseroles. Sherry, a nod to imported luxury, cements the dish’s status as one suited for special occasions or family gatherings.

Culinary Tools when the Recipe was Crafted

Tools and techniques from kitchens of old

This recipe would have been prepared over a wood-fired hearth or coal stove. Roasting the birds was typically done on an open spit or in a cast-iron oven. Frying was accomplished in hefty copper or cast-iron pans. Bread would be sliced by hand with large, sturdy knives. The dish was assembled in broad, earthenware or glazed ceramic platters designed to retain warmth and placed atop large pots or directly into the oven to gently simmer. Simple wooden spoons, mortars and pestles for spice grinding, and strainers for broths rounded out the basic kitchen arsenal.

Modern Kitchen Adaptation

Ingredients and techniques for today's cooks

ounces, cups, Fahrenheit

Prep Time

20 mins

Cook Time

1 hr 40 mins

Servings

We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!

Ingredients

4–6 whole doves or squabs (alternatively, Cornish game hens or small quail), cleaned
3.5 oz pork lard (or unsalted butter as substitute)
1 French baguette (about 9 oz), sliced
6 garlic cloves
2 cups poultry or game broth (or chicken stock as substitute)
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
2 whole cloves or pinch ground clove
1/2 tsp ground black pepper
about 1/8 tsp saffron threads
3.5 fl oz dry sherry (or dry white wine as substitute)
2 eggs, beaten
1 small onion, thinly sliced

Instructions

Begin by preparing 4 to 6 whole small game birds, such as doves or squabs, by cleaning and plucking them, keeping them whole.
Roast in a preheated oven at 390°F (200°C) until golden, about 25 minutes.
Then, in a large skillet, melt 3.5 oz pork lard over medium heat and briefly fry the roasted birds until crisped and deeply browned.
Slice 1 baguette (about 9 oz) into 1/2-inch thick rounds.
Fry the bread slices in the same lard until golden.
Remove and reserve.
Next, sauté 6 peeled garlic cloves in the same lard until aromatic, then discard or finely chop if desired.
In a large ovenproof serving dish, layer the fried bread into the base.
Moisten it with a little hot broth (about 2 cups) made by simmering the birds, or substitute with good chicken stock.
Sprinkle ground cinnamon, 2 whole cloves (or a pinch of ground), 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper, and a few threads (about 1/8 tsp) of saffron evenly over the bread.
Arrange the fried birds over the bread as a second layer, and pour in more broth to cover, creating a soupy consistency.
Cover the dish and place it above boiling water (a bain-marie) or in a low oven (about 250°F) and simmer gently for at least 1 to 1.5 hours to blend flavors.
Just before serving, stir in 3.5 fl oz dry sherry, 2 beaten eggs, and 1 small onion thinly sliced.
Let it heat through briefly and serve hot.

Estimated Calories

600 per serving

Cooking Estimates

You will need around 25 minutes to roast the birds and then fry them, plus about 1 to 1.5 hours of simmering in the oven. Preparation (cleaning birds, slicing bread, etc.) will take about 20 minutes. The recipe serves about 4 to 6 people. Each serving is approximately 600 calories, depending on your choice of bird and use of lard or butter.

As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.

We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.