Recipe Manuscript

Nogada

Name: Nogada
Prep time: PTPT10M
Cook time: PTPT5M
Yield: 4
Cuisine: American
Ingredients: 100 g walnuts (in shell), peeled and skinned; 2–3 garlic cloves, roasted; 50 g aged cheese (Cotija or Parmesan), grated; 40 g rustic bread, toasted; 40 g almonds, blanched; 2 tbsp fresh parsley, cooked and chopped; 3–4 tbsp olive oil; 100 ml water (approx., adjust to preferred consistency)

"Nogada"

1808

From the treasured pages of Libro de varios guisados, antes, y postres, que pertenece

Written by Maria Ramona Quixano y Contreras

Age of Gastronomy (1800 - 1900)American Intermediate Other

Original Recipe • 1808

Original Manuscript(circa Age of Gastronomy, 1800 - 1900)

As inscribed by the original author's hand, transcribed with care by Lost Kitchen Scrolls

Nogada

"Se quiebran las nueces y se hechan en jarro, se les quita el pellejo y se muelen. Unos ajos asados, queso añejo, y pan tostado se hade ir compartiendo al tiempo de moler las nueces, almendras, se le hecha de esto en agua que quede ni aguado ni espeso, y que se fría, se le hecha perejil cocido, y harto aceite por encima."

English Translation

"The walnuts are cracked and put in a jar, their skins are removed and they are ground. Some roasted garlic, aged cheese, and toasted bread should be gradually added while grinding the walnuts and almonds. Add water so that it is neither too watery nor too thick, and let it fry. Add boiled parsley and plenty of oil on top."

Note on the Original Text

Early nineteenth-century Mexican recipes, like this one, were written in a narrative, informal style, reflecting oral traditions and home-cook practices. Quantities are vague—'enough bread,' 'a lot of oil,' reflecting that cooks were expected to use experience and judgement. Spelling is often archaic, with words like 'se quiebran' or 'se hade ir compartiendo' (today: 'se ha de ir compartiendo'); punctuation is sparse, and instructions flow in a single, run-on sentence. The recipe combines direct commands with suggestions, layering ingredients as they were incorporated. The instruction to "ni aguado ni espeso" ('not too thin nor too thick') hints at the practical, hands-on wisdom that guided home cooks of the era.

Modern Kitchen Interpretation

Recipe's Origin

Libro de varios guisados, antes, y postres, que pertenece - Click to view recipe in book

Title

Libro de varios guisados, antes, y postres, que pertenece (1808)

You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome

Writer

Maria Ramona Quixano y Contreras

Era

1808

Publisher

Unknown

Background

A charming window into 19th-century Mexican home cooking, this manuscript whisks readers through a delectable array of chicken dishes, vibrant salsas, and colorful salads—each recipe graced with the personal touch of Doña Maria Ramona Quixano y Contreras.

Kindly made available by

University of Texas at San Antonio

Historical Background of the Recipe

Learn about old traditions

The recipe for Nogada comes from the 1808 Mexican manuscript "Libro de varios guisados, antes, y postres", which was compiled by Doña Maria Ramona Quixano y Contreras, a resident of the congregation of Silao. This manuscript is a true window into the domestic kitchens of early nineteenth-century Mexico, before Mexican Independence. Many recipes in this book showcase the fusion of European ingredients, like cheese and bread, with native Mexican flavors and nuts. This particular nogada, a rich walnut sauce, would have been served over savory dishes, possibly as a luxurious topping for special occasions. The hand-written recipes reflect the tastes and resources of the regional elite during this period.

Culinary Tools when the Recipe was Crafted

Tools and techniques from kitchens of old

Traditionally, this recipe would have called for an olla (earthenware jar) for holding ingredients, a metate or molcajete (stone grinder or mortar and pestle) for crushing the nuts, bread, and garlic. The nuts might be cracked with a small hammer or stone. A comal would be used to toast the bread and roast the garlic. A small saucepan or cazuela would be used over a wood or charcoal fire to gently warm the sauce. Fine strainers or cloths might have been used to ensure a smooth consistency, but textures tended to be rustic.

Modern Kitchen Adaptation

Ingredients and techniques for today's cooks

ounces, cups, Fahrenheit

Prep Time

10 mins

Cook Time

5 mins

Servings

We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!

Ingredients

3.5 oz walnuts (in shell), peeled and skinned
2–3 garlic cloves, roasted
1.75 oz aged cheese (Cotija or Parmesan), grated
1.4 oz rustic bread, toasted
1.4 oz almonds, blanched
2 tbsp fresh parsley, cooked and chopped
3–4 tbsp olive oil
3.5 fl oz water (approx., adjust to preferred consistency)

Instructions

Begin by cracking open about 3.5 ounces of fresh walnuts and removing their skins.
Place the skinned walnuts into a sturdy jar or bowl.
In a dry pan, roast 2-3 cloves of garlic until the skins blister.
Peel the garlic and add it to the walnuts.
Add 1.75 ounces of grated aged cheese (such as Cotija or Parmesan), and about 1.4 ounces of toasted rustic bread, torn into pieces.
Begin to blend or crush these together, using a mortar and pestle or food processor.
Gradually add 1.4 ounces of blanched almonds.
Add enough water as you blend to create a creamy paste, neither too thick nor too runny—about 3.5 fl oz, added in increments.
Transfer to a small saucepan and heat gently until just warmed through.
Stir in 2 tablespoons of chopped, cooked fresh parsley.
Drizzle with plenty of good olive oil (about 3–4 tablespoons) before serving.
Serve warm as a sauce or topping.

Estimated Calories

310 per serving

Cooking Estimates

This recipe takes about 10 minutes to get everything ready and about 5 minutes to actually cook and heat the sauce. Each serving has around 310 calories and the whole recipe makes 4 servings.

As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.

We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.