Lomo De Puerco
"Pork Loin"
From the treasured pages of Libro de varios guisados, antes, y postres, que pertenece
Written by Maria Ramona Quixano y Contreras

Lomo De Puerco
"Se hace asi: se cocina el lomo de Puerco, y se le echa clavo, pimienta, canela, agengibre, nuez moscada, que envueltos como cigarros, y se amarra con una hebra de pita, y que esten bien rellenos; y se hecha en una cazuela con las mismas especias que lleva adentro, un ramito de tomillo, y otras de mejorana, y tambien se le hecha sal, y se le hecha tanto de vino como de vinagre, se pone al fuego hasta que se cuece, se hecha en los platos que tengan caldito."
English Translation
"This is how it’s done: cook the pork loin, and add cloves, pepper, cinnamon, ginger, and nutmeg, all wrapped together like cigars and tied with a piece of twine, making sure they are well filled; place in a pan with the same spices that are inside, a sprig of thyme, and also marjoram, and add salt, and as much wine as vinegar, put it over the heat until it is cooked, and serve it on plates with some of the broth."
Note on the Original Text
This recipe, penned in an informal, flowing prose, reflects the oral tradition of Mexican recipe writing of the early 1800s. Precise measurements and temperatures are absent—cooks relied on familiarity with ingredients and techniques, using descriptive language and context clues instead of standardization. The Spanish spelling and phrasing ('se le echa,' 'se amarra con una hebra de pita') reflect both regional dialect and period conventions, and shortcuts in instruction assume kitchen know-how. The recipe's instructive style invites the cook to taste, judge, and adapt, celebrating hands-on interaction with the food.

Title
Libro de varios guisados, antes, y postres, que pertenece (1808)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Maria Ramona Quixano y Contreras
Era
1808
Publisher
Unknown
Background
A charming window into 19th-century Mexican home cooking, this manuscript whisks readers through a delectable array of chicken dishes, vibrant salsas, and colorful salads—each recipe graced with the personal touch of Doña Maria Ramona Quixano y Contreras.
Kindly made available by
University of Texas at San Antonio
This recipe hails from early 19th-century Mexico, an era of vibrant culinary fusion as Indigenous traditions mingled with Spanish and broader European influences. The 'Libro de varios guisados...,' compiled by Doña Maria Ramona Quixano y Contreras in 1808, is a remarkable manuscript that collects domestic recipes meant for the upper-middle classes of New Spain, chronicling beloved family dishes and festive preparations. Here, spice-laden pork loin prepared with wine and vinegar reflects both baroque Spanish taste and Mexican openness to aromatic spices introduced via global trade. Ingredients like cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg point to the culinary colonial crossroads of that era, while marjoram and thyme show the influence of imported Mediterranean herbs.

In Doña Maria Ramona's kitchen, the pork would have been prepared using a simple knife for cutting and possibly a mortar and pestle for grinding the spices fresh. The spice mixture was likely shaped by hand and the pork tied with natural fibers, such as pita (from agave), common in the region. Cooking happened in heavy clay or copper cazuelas (casseroles) set over hardwood coals, providing slow, even heat retention. Herbs would be gathered fresh, and wine and vinegar measured by eye, with cooking overseen by a watchful cook practicing kitchen intuition rather than strict timing.
Prep Time
20 mins
Cook Time
1 hr 30 mins
Servings
6
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 2.2 lb pork loin
- 1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
- 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
- 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
- 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger (substitute dried ginger powder if needed)
- 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
- Kitchen twine (as a substitute for pita fiber)
- 1 small bunch fresh thyme (about 0.35 oz)
- 1 small bunch fresh marjoram (about 0.35 oz, or substitute with oregano if marjoram unavailable)
- Salt, to taste
- 3.5 fl oz dry white wine
- 3.5 fl oz white wine vinegar
Instructions
- Begin by preparing a pork loin (about 2.2 lb).
- Lightly score or butterfly the meat to allow it to be filled and seasoned.
- Prepare a blend of ground spices: 1/2 teaspoon each of ground cloves, black pepper, cinnamon, ginger, and nutmeg.
- Mix these together and form into small rolls or 'logs'—think cigar-shaped bundles of the spice mixture.
- These spice 'cigars' are tucked into the pork loin, which is then tied securely with kitchen twine (in place of traditional pita fiber) to keep the spices inside.
- Place the tied pork loin in a casserole or Dutch oven.
- Add another generous pinch of each of the above spices to the pot, along with a small bunch of fresh thyme, a small bunch of fresh marjoram, and a good pinch of salt.
- Pour in approximately 3.5 fl oz of dry white wine and 3.5 fl oz of white wine vinegar.
- Cover and cook over gentle heat—on the stovetop or in an oven preheated to 350°F—for about 1 to 1.5 houres, or until the pork is tender and fully cooked.
- Serve the pork sliced, with some of the fragant cooking liquid spooned over each portion.
Estimated Calories
330 per serving
Cooking Estimates
It takes about 20 minutes to prepare the pork and spices, and 1 to 1.5 hours to cook it until tender. Each portion contains around 330 calories, and this recipe serves 6.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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