Gallina Borracha

This recipe comes from the 1808 Mexican manuscript cookbook of Doña Maria Ramona Quixano y Contreras, a resident of Silao, Guanajuato. The book highlights the rich culinary traditions of early 19th-century Mexico, particularly those found in provincial kitchens. 'Gallina Borracha'—which translates as 'Drunken Hen'—is one of many chicken-based dishes in the collection, featuring indigenous ingredients like ancho chiles and avocado leaves that reflect the blending of Spanish and Native Mexican foodways. Cookbooks like this were treasured family documents, handwritten for passing recipes between generations, and often adapted to suit both local ingredients and personal tastes. The use of avocado leaves in place of raisins, as noted in this recipe, is a delightful glimpse into how cooks creatively substituted based on availability and region.

The preparation would have required a metate (stone grinder) or a molcajete (mortar and pestle) for grinding the fried chiles and tomatoes into a paste. A large earthenware cazuela or heavy pot was used for simmering chicken with the sauce. Cast iron or clay comals (griddles) were used for roasting tomatoes and toasting sesame seeds. Frying would often be done in lard in a shallow pan, and a wooden spoon for stirring. Measuring tools were imprecise; ingredients were typically gauged by eye, experience, or basic household containers.