Ante De Mantequilla
"Butter Custard"
From the treasured pages of Novisimo arte de cocina
Written by Alejandro Valdes
Ante De Mantequilla
"Se pone al fuego una libra de azucar para hacer almibar clarificada de punto entero; á esta almibar se le echa una mantequilla, y luego que se ha enfriado, cuatro yemas de huevos, y se vuelve á poner al fuego para que se cueza, echándole una porcion de almendra tostada y molida: se hacen capas de rebanadas de mamon, y si se quiere poner requeson, se pondrá en la última capa, con pastilla de olor, y bien compuesto para que se cuaje entre dos fuegos."
English Translation
"Put a pound of sugar over the heat to make a clear syrup cooked to firm stage; into this syrup add some butter, and once it has cooled, add four egg yolks, then return to the heat so it cooks, adding a portion of toasted and ground almonds. Layer slices of sponge cake, and if you wish to add ricotta, place it on the last layer, with a fragrant tablet, and compose well so that it sets between two heats."
Note on the Original Text
Recipes in the early 19th century were usually written for experienced cooks, giving only key steps without exact measurements. Quantities were referenced by commonly understood units (a 'libra' for sugar, for example), and methods relied on recognizable sensory cues—like syrup stages—rather than temperature or timers. Spelling and grammar follow period Spanish conventions, where terms like 'almibar' (syrup), 'yemas' (egg yolks), 'requeson' (fresh cheese), and 'pastilla de olor' (fragrant spice tablet) were commonplace. The recipe's structure encourages improvisation and adaptation based on ingredient availability and local palate.
Title
Novisimo arte de cocina (1831)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Alejandro Valdes
Era
1831
Publisher
Unknown
Background
A delightful 19th century cookbook offering a medley of recipes curated to be prepared in multiple enticing styles—perfect for the adventurous home chef with refined tastes.
Kindly made available by
University of Texas at San Antonio
This dessert is drawn from the 'Novísimo arte de cocina' (1831), composed by Alejandro Valdés, a compendium aimed at the cosmopolitan kitchens of early-19th-century Spain, reflecting both local ingredients and international trends. The 'Ante de mantequilla' would have been considered a luxurious treat, featuring imported sugar and almonds, both signs of affluence and refined taste. Desserts like this one are a testament to the creative blending of southern European confectionery traditions with Spanish ingredients, bridging the gap between rustic and aristocratic cuisines during the post-Enlightenment period.
Cooks in the 1830s would use a heavy copper or tin-lined saucepan for syrup-making, sturdy wooden spoons for stirring, and ceramic or enamel bowls for beating eggs. The dessert would be assembled in ceramic or glass dishes. Baking for custard setting often relied on a 'baño María' (bain-marie), using a large pot or deep pan filled with hot water, placed over embers or in the hearth oven, to ensure gentle, even cooking.
Prep Time
30 mins
Cook Time
40 mins
Servings
10
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 2 1/4 cups white sugar
- 1/3 cup water
- 7 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 4 large egg yolks
- 2 3/4 ounces toasted almonds, finely ground
- 1 sponge cake (about 8 inches, cut into 3/8-inch slices) or brioche
- 3 1/2 ounces ricotta cheese (substitute for requesón, optional)
- 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon or clove (optional, for aroma)
Instructions
- Start by heating 2 1/4 cups of sugar in a saucepan with about 1/3 cup of water to create a clear syrup, cooking until it reaches the 'thread stage' (about 223–234°F).
- Add 7 tablespoons of unsalted butter to the syrup, stirring until melted and well incorporated.
- Allow the mixture to cool slightly.
- Beat four large egg yolks and slowly add to the cooled syrup-and-butter mixture, blending well.
- Return the saucepan to a gentle heat, stirring constantly until the mixture thickens, taking care that it does not curdle.
- Remove from the heat and stir in 2 3/4 ounces of toasted and finely ground almonds.
- To assemble, layer slices of sponge cake (about an 8-inch cake, cut into 3/8-inch slices) in a deep dish, spreading the almond-butter custard between each layer.
- Optionally, for the final layer, spread around 3 1/2 ounces of ricotta cheese (as a modern substitute for requesón) and a pinch of aromatic spice (such as cinnamon or a touch of ground clove, mimicking 'pastilla de olor').
- Continue layering and finish with a top layer of custard.
- Bake the assembled dessert gently in a bain-marie (water bath) at 320°F until set, about 30–40 minutes.
Estimated Calories
510 per serving
Cooking Estimates
Preparing this dessert takes some time because you cook a sugar syrup, mix it with butter and egg yolks, assemble the layers, and then bake it gently to set. Each serving is rich because of the sugar, butter, nuts, cake, and optional ricotta.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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