Higos Cubiertos
"Covered Figs"
From the treasured pages of Novisimo arte de cocina
Written by Alejandro Valdes
Higos Cubiertos
"Los higos negros sin estar maduros, se mondan y se cuecen; se irán tapando al sacarlos del agua para que no se aireen, se pasmen ó se endurezcan: así se escurren: luego se echan en almibar clarificada de medio punto para darles un hervor todos los dias á fuego lento, hasta que se hayan conservado bien: se revuelven en azucar molida y cernida."
English Translation
"Black figs, before they are ripe, are peeled and boiled; as they are taken out of the water, they should be covered so they do not get exposed to air, stagnate, or harden: then they are drained: next, they are placed in clarified syrup of medium thickness to be simmered every day over low heat, until they are well preserved: finally, they are coated in sifted powdered sugar."
Note on the Original Text
The recipe is written in the concise, directive style typical of 19th-century Spanish cookbooks, assuming familiarity with foundational techniques like fruit candying and sugar boiling. Quantities are vague—reflecting both the oral tradition and the expectation that the reader possesses some kitchen intuition. Terms such as 'mediopunto' refer to the soft-thread stage of sugar syrup, a technical marker understood by the contemporary cook. Spelling is largely conventional for the era, but terms like 'mondan' (meaning 'to peel') and 'pasmen' (here, 'to wither or toughen') might puzzle the modern reader. The narrative structure privileges process over precise measurement, valuing gradual transformation and daily attention over exact timing.
Title
Novisimo arte de cocina (1831)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Alejandro Valdes
Era
1831
Publisher
Unknown
Background
A delightful 19th century cookbook offering a medley of recipes curated to be prepared in multiple enticing styles—perfect for the adventurous home chef with refined tastes.
Kindly made available by
University of Texas at San Antonio
This recipe derives from Alejandro Valdés' 'Novísimo arte de cocina' (1831), a Spanish cookbook emblematic of the vibrant culinary scene of early 19th century Spain. Confectionery recipes like 'Higos cubiertos' (Candied Figs) illustrate both the ingenuity in food preservation before refrigeration and the growing access to processed sugars, thanks to expanding trade and colonial routes. In the social context, candied fruits served both as elegant treats in aristocratic homes and practical sweets for festive tables, given their vivid colors and extended shelf-life. Figs, cherished for centuries in Mediterranean countries, find fresh expression here as a glossy, sugar-dusted delight.
A large copper or ceramic cooking pot would have been used to blanch the figs. A slotted spoon or wooden ladle would remove the figs from boiling water, and fine towels (linen or cotton) would cover and preserve their freshness as they cooled. For syrup preparation, sugar would be dissolved in water over an open flame or cast-iron stove, using constant attentive stirring. The figs, submerged in the syrup, would need daily heating—requiring both patience and a careful hand. A sieve or flat rack, possibly wooden, aided in drying the sugared figs. Pestles and mortars or hand sieves would ensure the sugar for dusting was finely powdered.
Prep Time
20 mins
Cook Time
30 mins
Servings
25
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 2.2 lbs fresh, under-ripe black figs (about 25 medium figs)
- 1.1 lbs white granulated sugar (for syrup)
- 3 1/4 cups water
- 3 1/2 oz icing sugar (for dusting)
Instructions
- Begin by peeling about 2.2 lbs of fresh, slightly under-ripe black figs.
- Place them in a large pot of boiling water and cook until just tender, around 5-10 minutes.
- Remove them carefully with a slotted spoon and cover them with a clean kitchen towel to prevent air exposure, which can cause discoloration or hardening.
- Let them drain thoroughly on a rack or colander.
- Prepare a light sugar syrup by dissolving 1.1 lbs of white granulated sugar in 3 1/4 cups of water.
- Bring to a gentle simmer until the sugar is completely dissolved and the syrup is clear.
- Submerge the drained figs into the syrup and heat very gently.
- Each day, reheat the syrup with the figs to a bare simmer for just a few minutes, ensuring the figs absorb the syrup gradually.
- Continue this daily process for several days, until the figs are fully candied and glossy.
- Finally, remove the figs from the syrup and roll them generously in 3 1/2 oz of finely milled and sifted sugar (icing sugar works well).
- Let them dry on a rack before storing in an airtight container.
Estimated Calories
80 per serving
Cooking Estimates
You will spend about 20 minutes peeling and preparing figs, then about 10 minutes boiling them. Each day, you heat the figs for 5 minutes in syrup, for 4 days. This means total active cooking and prepping is about 50 minutes, while the rest is waiting for figs to candy. Each serving is one fig, and each has about 80 calories.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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