Chongos Buenos
"Good Chongos"
From the treasured pages of Libro de Recetas de Cocina
Written by Guadalupe Perez
Chongos Buenos
"A cuatro libras de azúcar clarificada y de medio punto, se le echa cuatro mantequillas de a medio, se pone a que suba mas de punto, luego se baja y ya que esta fria se rebate en el almibar, y se baten diez y seis yemas sin claras, y se revuelven con el almibar, y se bate como turron; se revanan cuatro reales de pan de la vida, se frien en mantequilla y se ban poniendo las rebanadas en un platon ó tortera, una capa de rebanadas y otra de queso fresco revanado que no sea salado; asi se ban poniendo las capas hasta acabar, la ultima ha de ser de la pasta con su canela por encima; antes de poner las capas se unta con mantequilla la tortera, se pone a cocer á dos fuegos lentos como torta y se le mete un popote para ver si ya está cuajado, y se come."
English Translation
"To four pounds of clarified sugar at a medium stage, add four half-sized portions of butter, bring it to a higher stage, then lower the heat and once it is cold, beat it into the syrup. Beat sixteen egg yolks (without whites) and mix them with the syrup, beating as if making nougat. Slice four reales worth of 'pan de la vida' (a type of bread), fry in butter, and begin layering the slices in a large dish or baking tin—one layer of bread slices, then another of sliced fresh cheese that isn't salty. Continue layering until finished, with the last layer being the paste with cinnamon sprinkled on top. Before layering, grease the dish with butter. Bake over two gentle fires as if baking a cake, and insert a straw to check if it's set. Serve to eat."
Note on the Original Text
The recipe is presented in a flowing narrative style, assuming the cook’s familiarity with kitchen processes—no ingredient list or step-by-step instructions were provided. Quantities like 'libras' and 'reales' reflect the Spanish colonial measurement system, with some flexibility depending on what was on hand. Spelling is phonetic ('ban' for 'van', 'revanan' for 'rebanan'), and terms such as 'pan de la vida' point to local bakery breads now rare or renamed, requiring interpretative substitution today. Such vagueness was typical, as recipes were often family secrets or left to the experienced intuition of the cook.
Title
Libro de Recetas de Cocina (1884)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Guadalupe Perez
Era
1884
Publisher
Unknown
Background
Travel back to 19th-century Acatzingo, Puebla with this enchanting manuscript, where ink and pencil whisper authentic Mexican flavors. From sweet compotes to delicate biscochos and hearty tamales, every page offers a taste of culinary heritage—and plenty of blank space for your own inspired notes.
Kindly made available by
University of Texas at San Antonio
This recipe hails from the 'Libro de Recetas de Cocina', a handwritten recipe collection compiled in 1884 by Guadalupe Perez in Acatzingo, Puebla, Mexico. Such manuscripts were often kept by women of the household and reflected both local tastes and the European influence on upper-class kitchens after independence. 'Chongos Buenos' bridges old-world custards and the regional tradition of sweet, milk- or egg-rich desserts, capturing how Mexican cooks repurposed familiar pantry items and bakery leftovers into celebratory treats. Set against the backdrop of a rural, yet cosmopolitan Puebla, this recipe showcases not only the flavors of the time but also the careful labor and sharing of kitchen knowledge, passed from generation to generation, often scribbled by hand in precious notebooks.
In the 1880s Mexican kitchen, ingredients would be mixed using large clay or metal bowls, with syrups cooked in thick-bottomed copper pans over open wood or charcoal fires. Bread was sliced with hand-forged knives and fried in cast-iron or clay comales or pans. Baking occurred in brick ovens ('hornos de barro') or with a double-heat method: placing hot coals below and above the baking vessel to mimic even oven heat. Recipes mention 'platon' (serving platter) or 'tortera' (shallow baking tin), and a 'popote'—a natural reed or straw—was used as the original cake tester for doneness.
Prep Time
40 mins
Cook Time
1 hr 10 mins
Servings
12
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 4 lbs granulated sugar
- 2 cups water
- 1 lb (2 cups) unsalted butter (plus extra for frying and greasing)
- 16 large egg yolks
- 7 oz sweet brioche/bakery-style bread (thickly sliced; as substitute for 'pan de la vida')
- 14 oz fresh, unsalted cheese (queso fresco or ricotta, sliced)
- Ground cinnamon for dusting
Instructions
- To prepare Chongos Buenos as it was enjoyed in 19th century Puebla, begin by clarifying 4 lbs of sugar with 2 cups of water to form a light syrup, then add 1 pound (2 cups) of unsalted butter and cook until the syrup thickens further.
- Allow this mixture to cool.
- Meanwhile, beat 16 large egg yolks until smooth and combine gently with the cooled syrup, whisking until thick and pale, similar to a nougat (turrón) texture.
- Slice 7 oz of sweet brioche or challah bread into thin slices and fry in additional unsalted butter until golden.
- Grease a deep baking dish with butter and layer fried bread slices with about 14 oz of fresh, unsalted cheese (such as queso fresco or ricotta, sliced).
- Continue alternating layers, finishing with a generous topping of the yolk mixture and a dusting of cinnamon.
- Bake in a moderate oven (325°F) until set, inserting a thin skewer to test for doneness.
- Let cool before serving, much like a rich, sweet bread pudding.
Estimated Calories
890 per serving
Cooking Estimates
Preparing Chongos Buenos takes some time because you need to make the syrup, beat eggs, fry bread, layer ingredients, and bake until set. There's also time to let the baked pudding cool before serving. Each serving is rich, so enjoy in moderation.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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