Mock Turtle Soup
From the treasured pages of Mrs. Knight's receipt book
Written by Mrs. Knight
Mock Turtle Soup
"Take a calfs head with the skin on scald off the hair wash it and split it, Boil it an hour and a half Take it off and when cold cut it into small square pieces then put half a pd of butterr in a stew pan and a large spoonfull of flour then keep stirring it till it is brown then add 2 quarts of very rich gravy a litle chopped parsley and fine marjoram Thyme chian peper salt and the juice of 2 or 3 lemons an onion and a bottle of Madeira wine let it be stewd all together then mix the brains with the soup - there must be forced meat balls and hard eggs put in the Tureen"
Note on the Original Text
This recipe is typical of 18th-century British manuscript cookery: instructions are terse and assume considerable prior knowledge. Ingredients and methods are described conversationally, with approximate timings and quantities, relying on the cook’s experience to adjust consistency and seasoning. Spelling is variable—'chian peper' is 'cayenne pepper,' and 'forced meat balls' refers to hand-shaped balls of seasoned minced meat. Period punctuation and grammar can seem abrupt, but the instructions are clear to a contemporary reader of the time, favoring practicality over precision.
Title
Mrs. Knight's receipt book (1740)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Mrs. Knight
Era
1740
Publisher
Unknown
Background
Step into the refined kitchens of 18th-century England with Mrs. Knight’s culinary collection, where time-honored recipes, hearty roasts, and elegant pastries await the enterprising cook.
Kindly made available by
Folger Shakespeare Library
Mock Turtle Soup has its origins in 18th-century England, particularly in homes that aspired to the elegance of elite dining without the expense of real turtle. This recipe, penned by Mrs. Knight around 1740, reflects the ingenuity of cooks who created complex, luxurious soups from humble ingredients, mirroring the much-prized green turtle soups served in grand households and banquets. The inclusion of Madeira wine and rich stock showcases the period’s penchant for robust, layered flavours, and the presence of refined garnishes like forcemeat balls and hard-boiled eggs points to a presentation fit for the gentry’s dining table. Culturally, this recipe reflected both the rising middle class’s desire for sophistication and the practical, nose-to-tail ethos of Georgian cookery. The soup encapsulated luxury and thrift, playing a starring role in festive and celebratory meals.
Cooks in 1740 would use large copper or iron stockpots suspended over wood or coal fires for boiling and simmering, with long-handled wooden spoons or paddles for stirring thick sauces and roux. Heavy earthenware or metal stew pans performed the browning of butter and flour. Cleavers and knives were used for butchering and chopping, and mortar and pestle for mixing herbs and spices. Boiled brains and forcemeat balls would be carefully handled with slotted spoons and arranged with care in large, decorative tureens ready for the table. The final carving and serving would take place at the dining table, often with serving ladles made of silver or pewter.
Prep Time
45 mins
Cook Time
2 hrs 30 mins
Servings
8
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 1 calf's head with skin (about 5.5–6.5 lbs) or substitute with 2.2 lbs veal shank and 1 beef/veal tongue
- 8 oz (2 sticks) unsalted butter
- 1 oz (2 tbsp) plain flour
- 8 1/2 cups (2 quarts) rich beef or veal stock
- 2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley
- 1 tbsp finely chopped marjoram (or 2 tsp dried marjoram)
- 1 small branch of fresh thyme (or 1 tsp dried thyme)
- 0.5 tsp cayenne pepper
- 2 tsp fine sea salt
- Juice of 2–3 lemons
- 1 large onion, thinly sliced
- 25 fl oz (1 standard 750 ml bottle) Madeira wine
- Brains from calf's head, or substitute with 2 large hard-boiled eggs, finely chopped
- Forcemeat balls (about 20–24 small balls made from 14 oz minced veal/beef, breadcrumbs, herbs, and egg)
- 4 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and quartered
Instructions
- Begin by sourcing a whole calf's head with the skin on (about 5.5–6.5 lbs), though this may require a specialty butcher or may be substituted with veal shank and tongue for a similar texture.
- Scald the head to remove the hair, rinse thoroughly, split it, and simmer in a large pot of water for 1.5 hours.
- Allow it to cool, then cut the meat into small 3/4-inch cubes.
- In a large stewpan, melt 8 oz (2 sticks) of butter and stir in about 1 oz (2 tablespoons) of plain flour; cook, stirring, until the mixture turns a rich brown.
- Gradually whisk in 8 1/2 cups (2 quarts) of rich beef or veal stock (homemade if possible).
- Add 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley, 1 tablespoon finely chopped marjoram, a small branch of thyme, 1/2 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper, 2 teaspoons salt, the juice of 2–3 lemons, and 1 large onion, finely sliced.
- Pour in a 25 fl oz (1 standard 750 ml bottle) of Madeira wine.
- Add the cubed meat to the pan and simmer gently for 30–45 minutes.
- Crumble and stir in the boiled brains (or substitute with finely chopped hard-boiled eggs if unavailable).
- Serve the soup in a tureen with an array of small forcemeat balls (veal or beef, seasoned and rolled) and quartered hard-boiled eggs.
Estimated Calories
600 per serving
Cooking Estimates
It takes some time to prepare and cook this classic soup. You need to clean and simmer the meat, then cook everything together in one pot before serving. Each serving has a moderate amount of calories, and the recipe makes enough for a family or a small dinner party.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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