Howe To Coller A Pigg

This recipe for 'collaring a pig' comes from early modern England, dating between 1626 and the mid-18th century, and was recorded by Mary Baumfylde. Collaring was a preservation and presentation technique, turning a boned joint of meat into a rolled, spiced cylinder—suitable for slicing cold at a fashionable table. This style of preparation would commonly be undertaken by households of some means, in the context of large feasts or to ensure that surplus meat could be enjoyed over several days. The array of spices—cloves, mace, nutmeg, and ginger—indicates the wealth and status of the household, as these would have been imported luxury items at the time. The use of milk in the poaching liquid reflects both a method of tenderizing the meat and the abundance (where available) of dairy produce.

In Mary Baumfylde’s day, the pig would have been scalded in a large cauldron or tub of hot water. Boning would be done with a heavy knife on a sturdy wooden table. The rolling up and tying would be accomplished with linen cloth and strong twine. For boiling, a large hearth-side pot or kettle would be hung over, or set into, the fire. Cooling would occur by setting the vessel in a cool cellar, and the storage would be in a glazed earthenware pot. No refrigeration, of course—the long soaking in brine (here, spiced liquor) would help preserve and flavour the meat until it was needed.