For A Haunch Or Should'R Of Venison

This recipe originates from the early 18th century, found within 'The Lady Cravens receipt-booke', a manuscript of English cookery compiled between 1702 and 1704 by Elizabeth, Baroness Craven. During this period, venison represented both affluence and the bounty of English country estates, and recipes were customarily shared among the gentry, as reflected by frequent attributions to Lady Craven's aristocratic friends. Cookbooks of the era were called 'receipt books,' collecting cooking and household knowledge in a less standardized, more conversational style. Venison dishes such as this were centerpiece roasts, meant for grand family gatherings and festive occasions on estates such as Coombe Abbey, where Lady Craven lived.

In Lady Craven's time, venison would have been prepared in a large, open hearth kitchen. A sturdy roasting spit suspended over the fire would turn the haunch slowly. Basting brushes fashioned from natural bristles or bunches of herbs tied together were used for moistening the roast. A large, sharp knife was essential for chopping suet and herbs finely, and for incising the meat. Gravy would be made in a heavy-bottomed saucepan or ladle, directly over the coals. Earthenware platters, pewter serving dishes, and large wooden carving boards helped present the finished roast, surrounded by abundant sauce.