Recipe Manuscript

Gedämpfte Schleien

Name: Gedämpfte Schleien
Prep time: PTPT20M
Cook time: PTPT35M
Yield: 6
Cuisine: European
Ingredients: 1-1.5 kg fresh tench, cleaned (substitute: carp, tilapia, or catfish if unavailable); 2-3 onions (about 250g), sliced; 1 large carrot (about 100g), sliced; 1 parsley root (optional, about 50g), sliced; A handful (15g) fresh green herbs (parsley, dill, or chervil), chopped; 20g salt (about 2 tsp); 100g unsalted butter; 500ml water; 250ml dry white wine; 2 slices (about 60g) day-old white bread, grated; 1 tsp mixed ground spices (white pepper, allspice, pinch of clove); Fish blood (reserved from preparation, or substitute 30 ml water + 1 tsp cornstarch for texture if unavailable); 2 tbsp white wine vinegar

"Steamed Tench"

1897

From the treasured pages of Henriette Davidis praktisches kochbuch für die gewöhnliche und feinere küche

Written by Henriette Davidis

Age of Gastronomy (1800 - 1900)European Intermediate Dinner Lunch

Original Recipe • 1897

Original Manuscript(circa Age of Gastronomy, 1800 - 1900)

As inscribed by the original author's hand, transcribed with care by Lost Kitchen Scrolls

Gedämpfte Schleien

"Man rührt das Blut wie beim Karpfen mit etwas Eſſig, verfährt mit dem Reinmachen der Schleien, wie es beim Kochen derſelben Nr. 44 bemerkt worden, legt in Scheiben geſchnittene Zwiebeln nebſt anderm Wurzelwerk, grünen Kräutern und Salz in eine Kaſſerolle, die Fiſchſtücke mit einem reichlichen Stück Butter darauf, gießt ſoviel Waſſer und Wein hinzu, daß der Fiſch beinahe bedeckt iſt, und kocht ihn, feſt zugedeckt, etwa ½ Stunde. Dann gibt man geriebenes Weißbrod, etwas geſtoßenes Gewürz und das Blut hinzu, läßt es noch ein wenig kochen, richtet die Fiſche an, rührt die recht ſämige Sauce durch ein Sieb und füllt ſie darüber."

English Translation

"Stir the blood as with carp with a little vinegar, clean the tench as described under No. 44, place sliced onions together with other root vegetables, fresh herbs, and salt in a saucepan, lay the pieces of fish on top with a generous piece of butter, pour in enough water and wine so that the fish is almost covered, and cook, tightly covered, for about half an hour. Then add grated white bread, some crushed spices, and the blood, let it cook a little longer, arrange the fish, strain the now creamy sauce through a sieve, and pour it over the fish."

Note on the Original Text

The recipe is written in the concise, instructive style typical of the 19th century, assuming the reader is familiar with basic kitchen work. Measurements are not always precise, and quantities often rely on the cook’s judgement and experience. The spelling uses old German orthography (ſ, for example), and punctuation is sparse. Ingredients like fish blood were common thickeners and enrichments in the cuisine of the era, though they may seem unusual to modern cooks. The recipe also frequently references other recipes in the book (such as cleaning tench 'as described in recipe 44'), characteristic of cookery books before standardized indexing.

Modern Kitchen Interpretation

Recipe's Origin

Henriette Davidis praktisches kochbuch für die gewöhnliche und feinere küche - Click to view recipe in book

Title

Henriette Davidis praktisches kochbuch für die gewöhnliche und feinere küche (1897)

You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome

Writer

Henriette Davidis

Era

1897

Publisher

C.N. Caspar

Background

A beloved staple in German kitchens, this practical cookbook by Henriette Davidis serves up a rich array of recipes ranging from everyday fare to refined culinary delights. Immerse yourself in traditional techniques and timeless flavors, all artfully presented for both the ordinary and ambitious cook.

Kindly made available by

Internet Archive

Historical Background of the Recipe

Learn about old traditions

Henriette Davidis was a pioneering figure in German domestic science, and her 'Praktisches Kochbuch' was the standard text for home cooks, from beginners to aspiring chefs, throughout the 19th and early 20th centuries. Published here in Milwaukee in 1897 for German-speaking immigrants in America, her recipes bridged the worlds of rural German traditions and emerging modern culinary methods. This recipe for Gedämpfte Schleien (Steamed Tench) gives a glimpse into the dietary habits of middle-class Germans of the time—freshwater fish, rich sauces, and resourceful use of all animal parts, including blood for thickening and flavor. The dish blends local produce, simple seasonings, and European techniques, reflecting a time when home-cooked meals were both frugal and celebratory.

Culinary Tools when the Recipe was Crafted

Tools and techniques from kitchens of old

In the late 19th century, this dish would have been cooked on a wood or coal-fired stove. Fish would be cleaned with a sharp knife and washed in cool water, then prepared in a deep, heavy pot or enameled casserole (Kasserolle). Slicing and chopping was done by hand with metal knives and wooden boards. A cloth or fine mesh sieve was used to strain the sauce, and the bread would have been grated with a hand grater. The heavy lid helped keep in steam for even cooking, and ingredients would be stirred with a wooden spoon.

Modern Kitchen Adaptation

Ingredients and techniques for today's cooks

ounces, cups, Fahrenheit

Prep Time

20 mins

Cook Time

35 mins

Servings

We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!

Ingredients

2 1/4–3 1/3 lbs fresh tench, cleaned (substitute: carp, tilapia, or catfish if unavailable)
2–3 onions (about 9 oz), sliced
1 large carrot (about 3.5 oz), sliced
1 parsley root (optional, about 1.75 oz), sliced
A handful (1/2 oz) fresh green herbs (parsley, dill, or chervil), chopped
2 1/2 tbsp salt (about 2 tsp)
7 tbsp unsalted butter (about 3.5 oz)
2 cups water
1 cup dry white wine
2 slices (about 2 oz) day-old white bread, grated
1 tsp mixed ground spices (white pepper, allspice, pinch of clove)
Fish blood (reserved from preparation, or substitute 2 tbsp water + 1 tsp cornstarch for texture if unavailable)
2 tbsp white wine vinegar

Instructions

To prepare Steamed Tench as described in Henriette Davidis' 1897 cookbook, begin by retaining and stirring the blood of the tench fish with a little vinegar, just as is done with carp.
Clean and prepare the tench, removing scales and innards.
Slice onions and other root vegetables such as carrot and parsley root, and place them in a large, wide pot or casserole.
Add fresh green herbs (such as parsley, dill, or chervil) and a good pinch of salt.
Arrange the cut fish pieces atop the vegetables and dot generously with butter.
Pour in enough water and dry white wine to nearly cover the fish.
Cover tightly and cook on a low simmer for about 30 minutes.
After this, add grated white bread, a little ground spice mix (such as white pepper, allspice, and a hint of clove), and the reserved fish blood to the pot.
Simmer gently for a few more minutes to thicken the sauce.
Remove the fish and arrange on a platter.
Strain the sauce through a fine sieve to make it silky, then pour the sauce over the fish to serve.

Estimated Calories

420 per serving

Cooking Estimates

It takes about 20 minutes to prepare the fish and vegetables, and about 35 minutes to cook everything. Each serving has around 420 calories. This recipe makes 6 servings.

As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.

We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.