Krebs Schmalz-Koch
"Crab Lard Dish"
From the treasured pages of Freywillig-auffgesprungener Granat-Apffel, Deß Christlichen Samaritans
Written by Eleonora Maria Rosalia

Krebs Schmalz-Koch
"Man nimbt Krebsen/ so vil man wil/ sieds wie gebräuchlich/ löß auß/ dann Semmel-Schmollen nach geduncken/ waichs in ein süsse obere Milch / wanns genug waich ist/ druckt mans wol auß/ hack die Krebsen und Semmel unter einander/ thues in ein Rein/ alsdann nimbt man ein frischen Butter laß ihn heiß werden/ schütt das Gehackte darein/ thue Gewürz darzu / und laß also außbröckeln biß es rörig wird."
English Translation
"Take as many crabs as you want, cook them as usual, extract the meat, then take breadcrumbs as desired and soak them in sweet fresh cream; when they are soft enough, press them out well, chop the crabs and breadcrumbs together, put them in a pan, then take fresh butter and let it get hot, pour in the chopped mixture, add spices, and let it fry until it becomes crumbly and loose."
Note on the Original Text
The recipe is written in the concise, direct style of early modern cookery books: minimal quantities, assuming the reader's familiarity with basic techniques and a kitchen sized for a household staff. Spelling reflects late Baroque German conventions ("waichs" for "weich" (soft), "thue" for "tue"), and some words are now archaic or regional ("Semmel-Schmollen" for soaked bread, "obere Milch" meaning cream). Instructions are sequential and expect the cook to adjust proportions and seasoning to taste, rather than following precise measurements—a practical approach for experienced cooks of the time.

Title
Freywillig-auffgesprungener Granat-Apffel, Deß Christlichen Samaritans (1699)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Eleonora Maria Rosalia
Era
1699
Publisher
Leopold Voigt
Background
This delightful tome by Duchess Eleonora Maria Rosalia is a treasure trove of culinary wisdom from 17th-century Vienna. Interwoven with remedies and secrets for well-being, it features a charming section described as a 'ganz neues und nutzbahres Koch-Buch'—an entirely new and useful cookbook—offering tried-and-true recipes, kitchen secrets, and practical tips to nourish both body and soul.
Kindly made available by
Wien Bibliothek
This recipe is drawn from a remarkable 1699 Viennese compendium authored (or at least compiled) by Duchess Eleonora Maria Rosalia of Troppau and Jägerndorf. The source is a fascinating blend of medical advice, charitable instruction, and practical household guidance, reflecting the era's belief in nourishing both body and soul. The recipe appears not in a specialist cookbook but in a more general treatise, demonstrating the close relationship between food, health, and hospitality in baroque households. Crayfish were considered both restorative and luxurious at the turn of the 18th century, and dishes like this one were popular at the tables of the aristocracy.

At the time, one would have used a heavy iron or copper pot for boiling the crayfish, wooden spoons for mixing, and a sturdy chopping knife for mincing the ingredients. Bread was soaked in a shallow ceramic or wooden bowl. The frying would be done over an open hearth or in a kitchen range, with the mixture stirred in a dedicated copper or earthenware pan. Pressing the soaked bread, as specified, would be accomplished by hand or with a simple press—nothing more elaborate was necessary. No mechanical food processors: all chopping and mixing was by hand or with a wooden pestle.
Prep Time
15 mins
Cook Time
15 mins
Servings
1
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 7 oz crayfish (per portion), fresh or frozen
- 5¼ oz white bread rolls or similar soft white bread (about 2 small rolls)
- ¾ cup sweet cream (36% fat) or full-fat milk
- 2 oz (4 tbsp) fresh unsalted butter
- Salt (to taste, for boiling the crayfish)
- Spices (to taste): ground pepper, nutmeg, mace
Instructions
- To recreate this rich 17th-century crayfish fat-cook, start by taking as many whole crayfish (fresh or frozen) as you desire—7 oz is a reasonable base per serving.
- Boil the crayfish in salted water as is typical, then extract the meat from the shells once cooked and cooled.
- Meanwhile, take 5¼ oz of white bread rolls (about 2 small rolls), tear these into pieces, and soak them in ¾ cup of sweet, fresh cream (use 36% fat, or at least full-fat milk if cream is unavailable).
- Allow the bread to fully soak and soften, then press out any excess liquid.
- Finely chop the crayfish meat and the soaked, squeezed bread together until well mixed.
- Transfer the mixture to a clean saucepan.
- Next, heat 2 oz (4 tbsp) of fresh unsalted butter in a separate pan until melted and hot.
- Add the crayfish-bread mixture to the butter and stir well.
- Sprinkle in your preferred spices (pepper, nutmeg, or a little mace were common), and continue stirring and gently frying until the mixture forms loose, moist crumbles and holds together when stirred.
Estimated Calories
520 per serving
Cooking Estimates
Preparing and cooking this dish takes about 30 minutes in total. You will spend around 15 minutes getting the ingredients ready and another 15 minutes cooking. Each serving contains around 520 calories.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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