Tubera
"Tubers"
From the treasured pages of Apicius - De re coquinaria (handwritten excerpts)
Written by Apicius

Tubera
"Vbera radis elixas sale aspegis & furcaelo infigis si nimis ferbuerit mittes in caccabulo liquamen oleum uiride carenum. Cum modica in mel uel feruuerit amulo obligas et tubera exornes & inferes. Aliter. tubera elixas & aspersa sale in furcaelo affigis assubassas et mittes in caccabulo liquamen oleum uiride carenu uinu modica & pip confractu et mellis modicu & se cum feruuerit amulo obligas & thubera compinges & combibant. Illud exornas cu bene feruuerit inferes. Si uolueris eadem thubera omento porcino in uolues & assabis et sic inferes. Aliter in thubera oenogaru pip ligusticu coriandru rutam liquamen mel uinu modicu infestras & inferes. Aliter thubera pip cuminum rutam mel acetu uel uinu sato ut liquamen & oleu modicum."
English Translation
"Boil the tubers, sprinkle with salt, stick them on a skewer; if they are too hot, put them in a pot with fish sauce, green oil, and reduced wine. When it boils a little, bind with honey or with thickener, garnish the tubers, and serve. Alternatively, boil the tubers, sprinkle with salt, skewer, roast a little and put them in a pot with fish sauce, green oil, reduced wine, a little wine and crushed pepper, a little honey, and, when it boils, bind with thickener, arrange the tubers, and soak them. Garnish and, when it is well-boiled, serve. If you wish, wrap the same tubers in pork fat and roast, then serve thus. Alternatively, in the tubers add wine sauce, pepper, lovage, coriander, rue, fish sauce, honey, a little wine, mix and serve. Alternatively, for the tubers: pepper, cumin, rue, honey, vinegar or wine to taste, fish sauce, and a little oil."
Note on the Original Text
The recipe, like many from Apicius, is written in a terse, elliptical Latin with minimal instructions and assumes experienced cooks familiar with the ingredients, tools, and basic methods of Roman cooking. Spelling and word-forms are often non-standard, blending classical, medieval, and local Italianisms. Words like 'u' for modern 'v', 'liquamen' (the fish sauce), or 'amulo' for starch can be tricky. Quantities and timings are rarely specified; cooks were to rely on instinct and practice. The multiple 'aliter' (alternative method) sections reflect the Roman enjoyment of culinary variety and improvisation, and the expectation that a cook would know how to adapt basic methods to the produce and circumstances at hand.

Title
Apicius - De re coquinaria (handwritten excerpts) (1475)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Apicius
Era
1475
Publisher
Venice
Background
A delectable compendium of ancient Roman cookery, this collection invites you to taste the flavors of antiquity through ten tantalizing sections based on Apicius’s famed De re coquinaria. Savor recipes, tips, and culinary wisdom penned in a fine Italian hand for the epicurean elite of the 15th century.
Kindly made available by
University of Pennsyllvania
This recipe hails from the famous Roman cookbook attributed to Apicius, composed in late antiquity but widely copied and adapted in the Middle Ages and Renaissance. The manuscript in question is a late 15th-century Italian humanistic script, blending culinary wisdom from classical Rome and the early Renaissance era. The Apicius corpus is renowned for its breadth and for introducing the Mediterranean world to a wide array of luxurious foodstuffs, including the prized truffle. Roman cuisine at this time was a melting pot of local Italian ingredients and techniques borrowed from the Greek, Egyptian, and eastern culinary traditions. Sauces like liquamen formed the backbone of Roman cookery, while the use of honey, wine reductions, and complex herb blends reflect a sophisticated palate seeking intense flavors and aromas.

The original Roman kitchen would have employed heavy clay or bronze pots (caccabulo), iron or bronze forks (furcaelo), and open hearths or charcoal grills for boiling, roasting, and grilling. Spices would be ground using a mortarium and pestle, and liquids measured by sight and experience rather than specific units. Marinating, skewering, and roasting were done either over embers or in wood-fired ovens. For thickening, wheat starch or crushed breadcrumbs might be used, though today cornflour or matzoh meal are suitable alternatives.
Prep Time
15 mins
Cook Time
20 mins
Servings
4
Ingredients
- 10.5oz fresh truffles (substitute: 10.5oz firm mushrooms such as cremini if necessary)
- Salt, to taste
- 2 tablespoons (1 fl oz) fish sauce (substitute: Thai fish sauce for liquamen)
- 2 tablespoons (1 fl oz) extra virgin olive oil
- 2 tablespoons (1 fl oz) sweet wine (such as Marsala, Vin Santo, or other sweet Italian wine)
- 1 teaspoon (0.18oz) honey
- 1 teaspoon (0.18oz) freshly ground black pepper
- 1 teaspoon (0.18oz) cumin seeds, freshly ground
- ½ teaspoon (0.07oz) celery leaves (substitute for lovage), finely chopped
- ½ teaspoon (0.07oz) coriander seed, freshly ground or fresh coriander leaves
- A sprig fresh rue (substitute: rocket/arugula if necessary)
- Wheat starch or cornflour for thickening (1 tablespoon/0.35oz)
- Thin slices pork fat, pancetta, or caul fat for wrapping (optional)
- Vinegar, 1 tablespoon (0.5 fl oz), as substitute for sharper variation
Instructions
- This recipe celebrates 'tubera', the ancient Roman term for truffles or similar tuberous roots.
- Begin by gently cleaning and peeling about 10.5oz of fresh truffles or, if unavailable, substitute with firm mushrooms like cremini.
- Boil the truffles in lightly salted water until just tender, then spear them with a fork.
- If the boiling water is too agitated, transfer the truffles to a cooking pot and add 2 tablespoons (1 fl oz) of liquamen (a fermented fish sauce, easily replaced by Thai fish sauce), 2 tablespoons (1 fl oz) extra virgin olive oil, and a splash of reduced sweet wine (such as 0.7 fl oz of vin santo or Marsala), and cook briefly.
- Combine with a drizzle of honey (1 teaspoon) and, once hot, thicken lightly with a spoonful of wheat starch (or cornflour/matzoh meal as an alternative), stirring to coat.
- Alternatively, after boiling, sprinkle the tubers with salt, skewer them, and grill lightly.
- Then place them in a pan with liquamen, olive oil, a little sweet wine, freshly cracked black pepper, and honey, thickening again with wheat starch as above.
- For another variation, wrap the boiled truffles in thin pork fat (pancetta or caul fat) and roast until crisp.
- Serve hot.
- A final method is to simmer the truffles with wine, ground pepper, lovage (substitute with celery leaves), coriander, rue (or fresh arugula/rocket as an alternative), liquamen, honey, and another splash of wine.
- To try a sharper version, combine truffles with pepper, cumin, rue, honey, vinegar or sweet wine, liquamen, and a touch of olive oil, heating briefly before serving.
Estimated Calories
140 per serving
Cooking Estimates
Preparing this dish includes cleaning and boiling truffles or mushrooms, making a sauce, and optionally roasting or grilling. Total time depends on the method, but most time is spent on prep and briefly cooking. The recipe serves about 4 people, and each serving is around 140 calories, depending mostly on the amount of oil and pork fat used.
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