Recipe Manuscript

Pullus Varianus

Name: Pullus Varianus
Prep time: PTPT20M
Cook time: PTPT1H20M
Yield: 6
Cuisine: European
Ingredients: 1.5 kg chicken (whole or cut into pieces); 1 medium onion; 1 small bunch fresh coriander; 1 L water (or enough to cover chicken); 3 tbsp fish sauce (or colatura di alici in place of Roman garum/liquamen); 2 tbsp olive oil; 150 mL dry white wine; 500 mL milk; Pinch of salt; 100 g stale bread, torn into pieces; 1/2 tsp ground black pepper; 1 tsp dried lovage (or celery leaves as substitute); 1/2 tsp dried oregano; 1-2 tsp honey; 1-2 tbsp defrutum (concentrated grape must, or 1-2 tbsp reduced grape juice as substitute); 1-2 tsp wheat starch or cornflour

"Varian Chicken"

1475

From the treasured pages of Apicius - De re coquinaria (handwritten excerpts)

Written by Apicius

Renaissance (1400 - 1700)European Intermediate Dinner Lunch

Original Recipe • 1475

Original Manuscript(circa Renaissance, 1400 - 1700)

As inscribed by the original author's hand, transcribed with care by Lost Kitchen Scrolls

Pullus Varianus

"pullus uarianus liquamine oleum uino cum mittis fasciculu coriandri cepam dum ea coctur fuit. lauas bis cum in ius suo & mittis i caccabu nouu lac et salem modicum. m.i. tercias partem panis adygne lotum ut tepefiat tactu confringis et micis paulatim assidue agitas ne uratur. pullu illic mittis integru uel carptum que pfundis ius tale pip ligusticu oryganu suffundis mel et defructo modicu et de ius de suo ab facis ut bulliat / cu bullierit amulo obligas et inferes."

English Translation

"Varian chicken: Put the chicken in a pan with fish sauce, oil, wine, a bundle of coriander, and an onion while it is cooking. Wash it twice in its own juice and put into a new pot with milk and a little salt. Crush a third part of well-soaked bread, so that it is warm to the touch, and break it up, stirring the crumbs constantly so they don’t burn. Put in the chicken, whole or shredded, and pour over this broth with pepper, lovage, oregano, drizzle with honey and a little defrutum (reduced wine), and some of its own stock so that it comes to a boil. When it has boiled, thicken with starch and serve."

Note on the Original Text

The text of the recipe is written in late Latin, often in a shorthand style intended for experienced cooks—so instructions could be quite terse and assume significant expertise. Spelling is highly variable; for example, 'liquamine' stands for 'liquamen' (fish sauce), and 'uino' for 'vino' (wine). Many words are abbreviated and some Latin characters (like 'u' for both 'u' and 'v') reflect medieval script conventions. The recipe also presupposes access to certain Roman ingredients (like garum and defrutum) which aren't readily available today; suitable modern substitutes are provided here.

Modern Kitchen Interpretation

Recipe's Origin

Apicius - De re coquinaria (handwritten excerpts) - Click to view recipe in book

Title

Apicius - De re coquinaria (handwritten excerpts) (1475)

You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome

Writer

Apicius

Era

1475

Publisher

Venice

Background

A delectable compendium of ancient Roman cookery, this collection invites you to taste the flavors of antiquity through ten tantalizing sections based on Apicius’s famed De re coquinaria. Savor recipes, tips, and culinary wisdom penned in a fine Italian hand for the epicurean elite of the 15th century.

Kindly made available by

University of Pennsyllvania

Historical Background of the Recipe

Learn about old traditions

This remarkable chicken recipe hails from the renowned Roman cookbook attributed to Apicius, 'De re coquinaria', preserved in a 15th-century Italian manuscript. The book was a compendium of Roman culinary wisdom, circulated among the upper echelons of Roman society and beloved by later Renaissance collectors. The dish, known as 'Pullus Varianus', is named for its luxurious, complex seasoning—a perfect reflection of Roman tastes for sweet, salty, and aromatic contrasts. At the time, dishes like this demonstrated both the cook's skills and the host's ability to procure expensive, far-flung ingredients (such as fish sauce and imported spices).

Culinary Tools when the Recipe was Crafted

Tools and techniques from kitchens of old

In antiquity, the recipe would have been prepared over an open hearth or in a charcoal-heated brazier using clay or bronze cooking pots. Cooks used wooden spoons for stirring and a mortar and pestle for grinding herbs and spices. Bread would be hand-crumbled, and sieves or strainers might filter broths. The heat was managed by moving pots closer to or farther from the embers—a true test of the cook's experience. There were no thermometers or precise measurements; everything was judged by eye, smell, and touch. Cooking vessels were typically deep and rounded, ideal for stewing and poaching.

Modern Kitchen Adaptation

Ingredients and techniques for today's cooks

ounces, cups, Fahrenheit

Prep Time

20 mins

Cook Time

1 hr 20 mins

Servings

We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!

Ingredients

3 lbs chicken (whole or cut into pieces)
1 medium onion
1 small bunch fresh coriander
1 quart water (or enough to cover chicken)
3 tbsp fish sauce (or colatura di alici in place of Roman garum/liquamen)
2 tbsp olive oil
5 fl oz dry white wine
1 pint milk
Pinch of salt
3.5 oz stale bread, torn into pieces
1/2 tsp ground black pepper
1 tsp dried lovage (or celery leaves as substitute)
1/2 tsp dried oregano
1-2 tsp honey
1-2 tbsp defrutum (concentrated grape must, or 1-2 tbsp reduced grape juice as substitute)
1/2 to 1 tsp wheat starch or cornstarch

Instructions

Begin by simmering chicken (about 3 lbs, whole or in pieces) in a quart of water with a generous splash of fish sauce (about 3 tablespoons), a drizzle of olive oil (2 tablespoons), and 5 fl oz of white wine.
Add a bouquet of fresh coriander and a medium onion, halved.
Poach until the chicken is cooked through.
Remove the chicken, reserving the broth.
Rinse the chicken twice in its own cooking liquor.
Place it in a clean pot and cover with its broth.
Add 1 pint fresh milk and a pinch of salt.
Moisten about 3.5 oz of day-old bread in a little warm water, then crumble it into the pot, stirring constantly to avoid sticking or burning.
Return the chicken to the pot, whole or in pieces.
Pour over the following seasoning: crush together black pepper, lovage (or use celery leaves as a substitute), oregano, a drizzle of honey, a little defrutum (or concentrated grape must, or use reduced grape juice as a substitute), and some of the reserved broth.
Simmer briefly.
Once it comes to a boil, thicken the sauce with starch (mix 1/2 to 1 teaspoon of wheat starch or cornstarch with cold water and stir in).
Serve hot, garnished with herbs if desired.

Estimated Calories

550 per serving

Cooking Estimates

This recipe takes about 20 minutes to prepare and 1 hour 20 minutes to cook. Each serving has about 550 calories, and the recipe serves 6 people.

As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.

We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.