In Omne Genus Conchiliorum
"For Every Kind Of Shellfish"
From the treasured pages of Apicius - De re coquinaria (handwritten excerpts)
Written by Apicius

In Omne Genus Conchiliorum
"In omne genus conchiloy pip ligusticu petrosilinu mentam siccam cumminu physula mel liquamen si uoles folliu & malabratu addes."
English Translation
"FOR EVERY KIND OF SHELLFISH. For every kind of shellfish, pound together lovage, parsley, dried mint, cumin, laserwort, honey, liquamen; if you wish, you may add pepper and malabathrum."
Note on the Original Text
The recipe uses terse, almost telegraphic Latin, listing ingredients and simple actions with little explanation—common to Apicius’s cookbook style. Abbreviations ("pip" for pepper), omission of verbs, and Latinized Greek ingredients are typical; the focus was for professional cooks or literate slaves expected to know standard procedures. 'Physula' here is enigmatic, likely referring to asafoetida or a similar pungent spice. 'Liquamen' is the famous fermented fish sauce, while 'malabratu' is sometimes identified as bay leaf or even black pepper. Spelling reflects medieval manuscript conventions, with phonetically rendered ingredient names differing from classical Latin and modern usage.

Title
Apicius - De re coquinaria (handwritten excerpts) (1475)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Apicius
Era
1475
Publisher
Venice
Background
A delectable compendium of ancient Roman cookery, this collection invites you to taste the flavors of antiquity through ten tantalizing sections based on Apicius’s famed De re coquinaria. Savor recipes, tips, and culinary wisdom penned in a fine Italian hand for the epicurean elite of the 15th century.
Kindly made available by
University of Pennsyllvania
This recipe hails from the legendary De re coquinaria, a collection traditionally attributed to the Roman gourmand Apicius, but handed down through many centuries as extracts, commentaries, and adaptations. The version in question was copied in Renaissance Italy, likely in the late 15th century, as an effort to preserve and rediscover the culinary habits of Imperial Rome. Apicius’s work is the earliest complete cookbook from Western Europe. It's a sourcebook not just for Roman feasting, but also for the Mediterranean kitchen's early globalization—showcasing herbs, spices, and condiments like cumin, mint, and the famous garum (fermented fish sauce) that reflect a cosmopolitan palate.

In Roman times, shellfish would have been steamed or boiled in copper cauldrons over open hearths. Herbs would be chopped with a small iron mezzaluna or knife. Ingredients would be mixed in pottery or bronze mortars, with final sauces poured over the shellfish using wooden or metal spoons. Dishes would be presented on large ceramic or silver platters, with ample opportunity for diners to dip and share the seasoned shellfish.
Prep Time
10 mins
Cook Time
10 mins
Servings
4
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 1 1/3 pounds mixed fresh shellfish (mussels, clams, cockles, oysters, etc.)
- 1 tablespoon (about 0.18oz) fresh parsley, chopped
- 1 tablespoon (about 0.18oz) fresh lovage, chopped (or celery leaves/celery seed for substitution)
- 1 teaspoon (about 0.07oz) dried mint
- 1 teaspoon (about 0.07oz) ground cumin
- A pinch of asafoetida powder (as substitute for 'physula', optional)
- 2 tablespoons (1oz) honey
- 2 tablespoons (1 fl oz) fish sauce (as substitute for ancient garum/liquamen)
- Optional: 1 fresh bay leaf, finely shredded
- Optional: freshly ground black pepper
Instructions
- To prepare all kinds of shellfish in the style of ancient Rome, start by steaming or poaching your choice of fresh shellfish (such as mussels, clams, cockles, or oysters) until just opened and tender.
- For the seasoning, finely chop fresh parsley and lovage (if unavailable, use an equal amount of fresh celery leaves or a smaller amount of celery seed).
- Mix in dried mint and ground cumin.
- If available, add a pinch of ground laser (asafoetida) in lieu of ancient 'physula.' Blend two tablespoons (about 1 ounce) of honey with two tablespoons (about 1 fluid ounce) of high-quality Thai or Roman-style fish sauce (garum/liquamen substitute).
- Combine all seasoning ingredients, spoon generously over warm shellfish, and finish, if you like, with a scattering of finely shredded fresh bay leaf and a little black pepper.
- Serve immediately as a striking appetizer or part of a Roman-style banquet spread.
Estimated Calories
200 per serving
Cooking Estimates
It takes about 10 minutes to prepare the ingredients and 10 minutes to cook the shellfish. One serving of this dish has around 200 calories. The recipe makes 4 servings.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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