De Castaneis
"About Chestnuts"
From the treasured pages of Apicius - De re coquinaria (handwritten excerpts)
Written by Apicius

De Castaneis
"E castonneis accipies caccabum nouum et castaneas purgas diligenter mittis et adicies aquam & satureiam modice facies ut coquatur. mittis in mortarium piper cumini semen coriandri sicci laseris radicem mentam puluerem fricabis suffundis acetum mel Liquamen aceto temperabis & sup castaneas coctas refundis adicies oleum facies ut ferueat ut feruerit inundabis ut i mortario teres piper ligusticum gustas siquid deest addes et ius habens moles et inferes oleum uiridem."
English Translation
"And for chestnuts: Take a new pot and carefully clean the chestnuts, put them in, and add water and a little savory; cook them. In a mortar, put pepper, cumin, dried coriander seed, laser root, mint; grind into powder, pour on vinegar, honey, liquamen; mix with vinegar and pour over the cooked chestnuts; add oil and let it boil. When it has boiled, pour off (the liquid). In the same mortar, grind pepper, lovage; taste, if anything is lacking, add it. When you have the sauce, mix and serve with fresh oil."
Note on the Original Text
The recipe is presented in a continuous, dense style common to Late Medieval and Renaissance manuscripts derived from Roman originals. There is little punctuation, and directions flow from one step to the next without explicit quantities or clear separations between ingredient lists and instructions. Spelling reflects Latin conventions of the time, including substitutions like 'u' for modern 'v' and omissions of modern punctuation. This concise presentation was designed for readers already familiar with culinary technique, encouraging improvisation and adaptation with ingredients. Measurement systems were loose—rarely exact—as cooks relied on experience and flavor.

Title
Apicius - De re coquinaria (handwritten excerpts) (1475)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Apicius
Era
1475
Publisher
Venice
Background
A delectable compendium of ancient Roman cookery, this collection invites you to taste the flavors of antiquity through ten tantalizing sections based on Apicius’s famed De re coquinaria. Savor recipes, tips, and culinary wisdom penned in a fine Italian hand for the epicurean elite of the 15th century.
Kindly made available by
University of Pennsyllvania
This recipe, 'De castaneis', was originally included in a 15th-century Italian manuscript drawing on material attributed to Apicius, a legendary figure in Roman culinary history. Apicius’ De re coquinaria is one of the oldest known cookbooks, providing us with a direct taste of ancient Roman eating habits. The recipe comes from a period where manuscripts were copied by hand in humanistic script, just before the wide spread of printed cookbooks. The inclusion of Platina's 'De honesta voluptate', the first printed cookbook, in the binding reflects the bridging of manuscript and print culture at this moment in culinary history.

In Roman times, this dish would have been prepared using a bronze or pottery pot for cooking the chestnuts, a mortar and pestle (likely of stone or bronze) for grinding the spices and herbs, and a wooden or metal spoon for stirring. The liquid ingredients would be measured by eye, and most work was hands-on. Cooking was typically done over a hearth or brazier with wood or charcoal.
Prep Time
20 mins
Cook Time
40 mins
Servings
4
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 18 oz chestnuts, fresh (or jarred in brine, drained)
- 4 cups water
- 1 teaspoon fresh or dried savory (Satureja hortensis)
- 1 teaspoon black peppercorns
- 1/2 teaspoon cumin seed
- 1/2 teaspoon dried coriander seed
- 1/2 teaspoon asafoetida (substitute for laser root)
- Small handful fresh or dried mint
- 2 tablespoons vinegar (wine vinegar preferable)
- 1 tablespoon honey
- 1 tablespoon fish sauce (for liquamen/garum)
- 2–3 tablespoons olive oil (plus extra for serving)
Instructions
- Begin by taking about 18 ounces of fresh chestnuts.
- Remove the outer shells and inner skins carefully.
- Place them in a medium saucepan and cover with enough water to submerge them (approximately 4 cups).
- Add a small handful (about 1 teaspoon) of fresh or dried savory (Satureja hortensis) to the pot.
- Simmer the chestnuts until tender, about 30–40 minutes.
- While the chestnuts are cooking, grind together in a mortar: 1 teaspoon black peppercorns, 1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds, 1/2 teaspoon dried coriander seeds, 1/2 teaspoon asafoetida powder (substitute for laser root, as laser is extinct), and a small handful of fresh or dried mint.
- Pound these to a fine powder.
- Moisten this mixture with 2 tablespoons vinegar, 1 tablespoon honey, 1 tablespoon fish sauce (garum substitute: Thai fish sauce), and an additional tablespoon of vinegar to balance.
- Mix well.
- Once the chestnuts are cooked, drain them and return them to the pot.
- Pour the spice and liquid mixture over them.
- Add 2–3 tablespoons olive oil.
- Bring back to a simmer for just a minute or two to meld the flavors.
- Check seasoning; if more spice or salt (fish sauce) is needed, adjust to taste.
- Serve warm, drizzled with a little fresh green olive oil.
Estimated Calories
310 per serving
Cooking Estimates
Preparing the chestnuts takes some time, especially peeling, and you need to simmer them until tender. After that, seasoning and finishing the dish is quick. Each serving has a moderate amount of calories from chestnuts, honey, and olive oil. This recipe makes about 4 servings.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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