Cucumeres
"Cucumbers"
From the treasured pages of Apicius - De re coquinaria (handwritten excerpts)
Written by Apicius

Cucumeres
"rasos siue ex liquamine siue ex oenogaro siue rutu & grauitudine teneriores facies. Aliter cucumeres rasos elixabis cum cerebellis elixis. Cumino & melle modico apij semen Liquamine, oleo bene obligabis piper asperges & inferes. Aliter cucumeres piper puleium mel uel passum Liquamen & acetum interdum & silphi accedit."
English Translation
"Grated cucumbers: You can make them with fish sauce, wine sauce, or rue, and you will make them more tender with their weight. Alternatively, boil grated cucumbers with boiled brains. Bind with cumin, a little honey, celery seed, fish sauce, and oil. Sprinkle with pepper and serve. Alternatively, prepare cucumbers with pepper, pennyroyal, honey or raisin wine, fish sauce, and sometimes vinegar and silphium."
Note on the Original Text
This recipe, like most from Apicius, is written as a terse set of options rather than precise instructions or measurements. The Latin text offers several variations, often separated by 'aliter' (meaning 'another way'), signaling improvisation or personal taste. Ingredient spelling reflects classical Latin—and abbreviations or alternate herb names are common. No instructions for times or temperatures appear, as assumed culinary context and knowledge made such details superfluous for the Roman audience. The prescription assumes familiarity with Roman pantry staples, notably garum, passum, and rare herbs like silphium (now extinct, often substituted by asafoetida or a similar aromatic). Modern conversion favors close approximations, but preserves Apicius's intent for layered flavors and varying textures.

Title
Apicius - De re coquinaria (handwritten excerpts) (1475)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Apicius
Era
1475
Publisher
Venice
Background
A delectable compendium of ancient Roman cookery, this collection invites you to taste the flavors of antiquity through ten tantalizing sections based on Apicius’s famed De re coquinaria. Savor recipes, tips, and culinary wisdom penned in a fine Italian hand for the epicurean elite of the 15th century.
Kindly made available by
University of Pennsyllvania
This recipe comes from the celebrated Roman culinary collection attributed to Apicius, a compendium of elite Roman recipes compiled sometime by the late 4th to 5th century CE, then recopied and cherished throughout the Renaissance. The manuscript described here was penned in Italy during the last quarter of the 15th century, bridging Classical tradition with early modern culinary curiosity. The book De re coquinaria was a treasure trove for wealthy Roman households, filled with imaginative, multicultural dishes featuring bold flavors, unusual herbs, and a penchant for fish sauce (garum) in nearly everything. Its survival into Renaissance Italy illustrates not just culinary transmission, but a vibrant desire to rediscover and revive the tastes of antiquity.

Roman cooks would have prepared this dish with a sharp knife or a small hand-held scraper to peel and slice the cucumbers. A mortar and pestle were essential for crushing spices, honey, and seeds into pastes or powder. Mixing bowls of wood or earthenware were used to combine ingredients. For the brains or substitutes, a small pot or cauldron was used for boiling, often over a wood or charcoal fire. Serving would involve simple pottery bowls or platters, and cooks might use pestles or wooden spoons to mix dressings into a silky emulsion before tossing with the cucumber.
Prep Time
10 mins
Cook Time
10 mins
Servings
4
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 1 lb 2 oz cucumber, peeled and finely sliced
- 5.3 oz veal or pork brains (or firm silken tofu as substitute)
- 1 teaspoon ground cumin
- 1 teaspoon honey
- 1 teaspoon celery seeds
- 1-2 tablespoons fish sauce (garum, or Asian fish sauce)
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- Freshly ground black pepper
- Fresh pennyroyal (or mint as substitute)
- 1 teaspoon honey or 1 tablespoon passum (substitute with sweet dessert wine or grape juice)
- 1 tablespoon vinegar (wine vinegar preferred)
- A pinch of asafoetida (as alternative to the extinct silphium)
- Rue leaves (optional, for authentic bitterness)
Instructions
- Peel and slice cucumbers (about 1 lb 2 oz) finely.
- You may serve them raw, dressed either with garum (or an equivalent fish sauce), with a mixture of wine and garum, or simply sprinkle them with rue for added aroma, making sure they are tender and fresh.
- Alternatively, boil the peeled cucumber slices with about 5.3 oz cooked veal or pork brains (or use extra firm silken tofu for a modern substitute).
- Once cool, combine the cucumbers and brains with a dressing of 1 teaspoon ground cumin, 1 teaspoon honey, 1 teaspoon celery seeds, 1-2 tablespoons fish sauce (garum or Asian fish sauce), and 2 tablespoons olive oil.
- Toss together, dust with freshly ground black pepper, and serve.
- For another variation, toss peeled, sliced cucumbers with a pinch of black pepper, fresh pennyroyal or mint (if pennyroyal is unavailable), 1 teaspoon honey or sweet raisin wine (passum - substitute with sweet dessert wine or grape juice), 1 tablespoon fish sauce, a dash of vinegar, and if available, a hint of asafoetida (to echo silphium, now extinct).
- Taste and adjust seasoning, then serve.
Estimated Calories
120 per serving
Cooking Estimates
It takes about 10 minutes to prepare the ingredients, and up to 10 minutes to cook if you choose the brains or tofu version. Each serving has approximately 120 calories, and the recipe makes 4 servings.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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