Schlampete Schnecken
"Diese werden in heißem Wasser ganz so, wie die harten Eier gesotten, und nebst Essigkren aufgetischt. Man holt sie mit der Gabel aus dem Gehäuse, schneidet etwas von dem harten Vordertheil und den Stein weg, und taucht sie in den Kren."
English Translation
"These are boiled in hot water just like hard eggs, and served with horseradish in vinegar. You take them out of the shell with a fork, cut off a bit of the hard front part and the stone, and dip them in the horseradish."
Note on the Original Text
The recipe is written in the terse, practical style of Austro-Bohemian cookbooks of its era: minimal quantities, few details, and the expectation that the cook understands fundamentals. Ingredients aren't explicitly listed—only actions and key accompaniments are given. Words like 'Kren' (horseradish) and 'Essigkren' appear in regional dialect. Spelling and instructions are direct, favouring experience and imitation over strict measurements. Such cookbooks assumed the reader had hands-on knowledge and access to fresh, local ingredients.
Title
Der Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen (1850)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen
Era
1850
Publisher
Dirnböck
Background
A delightful 19th-century cookbook that serves up refined banquets and hearty Austrian and Bohemian fare alike, all tested by the experienced hand of Marianka. It promises elegance for noble tables and affordable, tasty household cooking even in lean times—an inspiring blend of culinary sophistication and practical home kitchen wisdom.
Kindly made available by
Wien Bibliothek
This dish appeared in 'Der Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen,' a rare and practical 1850 Viennese cookbook. Authored by a seasoned female 'mouth-cook' (chef de cuisine), this text bridges courtly opulence and more common Central European fare. In mid-19th century Austria, edible land snails were a seasonal delicacy, often enjoyed during Lent or as a modest but special dish. The pairing with horseradish and vinegar (Essigkren) reflects a love of sharp, rustic accompaniments in Austrian and Bohemian cuisine.
Cooks in the 1850s would have used a large iron or copper pot for boiling, a sturdy fork for extracting snails, and a mortar and pestle or grater for preparing the horseradish. Serving would use simple ceramic or pewter dishes to keep the focus on the sauce and the tender snails. No fancy implements—just straightforward kitchen tools available to most middle-class households of Vienna at the time.
Prep Time
15 mins
Cook Time
12 mins
Servings
2
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 12-16 live edible snails (e.g., Helix pomatia or substitute with canned escargots, rinsed)
- Water (enough to cover snails in pot, approx. 6–8 cups)
- 2 ounces fresh horseradish root (or prepared horseradish as substitute)
- 2–3 tablespoons (1–1.5 fl oz) white wine vinegar
- Salt (optional, to taste)
Instructions
- For this 19th-century Austrian dish, begin by bringing a large pot of water to a vigorous boil.
- Add the live snails (about 12-16 for a small serving) and simmer them gently for 10-12 minutes, similar to how you would cook hard-boiled eggs.
- Meanwhile, prepare a fresh horseradish sauce by grating 2 ounces of horseradish and mixing it with 2-3 tablespoons of vinegar—a classic 'Essigkren.' Once cooked, use a fork to carefully remove each snail from its shell.
- Trim off the tough front part and the 'stone'—a reference to the hard operculum some snails have at the opening.
- Serve the tender snail with a bowl of horseradish-vinegar sauce for dipping.
- Best enjoyed warm.
Estimated Calories
80 per serving
Cooking Estimates
Cooking the snails takes about 10-12 minutes, just like hard-boiled eggs. Preparing the horseradish sauce and getting the snails ready will take another 10-15 minutes. Each serving is low in calories because escargots and horseradish sauce are both light foods.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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