Nudelerbsen
"Noodle Peas"
From the treasured pages of Der Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen
Written by Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen
Nudelerbsen
"Die auf steirische Art gekochten, abgehülsten, ganzen Erbsen gibt man in eine Rein oder Kasserole, in welcher Zwiebel in Schmalz anpassirt und mit Mehl eine lichte Einbrenn gemacht worden, und gießt etwas Suppe zu. Sind sie damit aufgekocht, gibt man nicht gar zu fein geschnittene Nudeln darein, und läßt sie gar kochen. Man kann die Nudeln auch in Salzwasser abkochen, dann dasselbe herabseihen, und solche in die Erbsen geben. Die Belegung ist dieselbe, wie bei dem Ritschit."
English Translation
"The whole peas, cooked in the Styrian style and hulled, are placed in a pan or casserole, in which onions have been sautéed in lard and a light roux has been made with flour, then some broth is poured in. Once this mixture has boiled together, not-too-finely cut noodles are added and cooked until done. Alternatively, the noodles can be boiled separately in salted water, then drained, and added to the peas. The topping is the same as for Ritschit."
Note on the Original Text
This historical recipe is brief and written for cooks already familiar with the culinary sequence—typical of the time. It omits precise measurements and assumes the reader knows basic techniques like making a 'lichte Einbrenn' (light roux) or 'abgehülste Erbsen' (peeled or hulled peas). The German spelling uses period conventions (such as 'giebt' for 'gibt'), and terms like 'Rein' and 'Kasserole' refer to common cooking vessels of the day. Instructions are less standardized; improvisation was expected, encouraging cooks to use what they had and trust their practice.
Title
Der Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen (1850)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen
Era
1850
Publisher
Dirnböck
Background
A delightful 19th-century cookbook that serves up refined banquets and hearty Austrian and Bohemian fare alike, all tested by the experienced hand of Marianka. It promises elegance for noble tables and affordable, tasty household cooking even in lean times—an inspiring blend of culinary sophistication and practical home kitchen wisdom.
Kindly made available by
Wien Bibliothek
This recipe comes from the mid-19th century Austrian cookbook of Marianka, the cook to Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen. Published in 1850 Vienna, her book was aimed at both refined tables and practical middle-class households navigating harder economic times. 'Nudelerbsen' is a dish rooted in the culinary traditions of Styria (now southeastern Austria), reflecting the era’s thrifty yet hearty approach—relying on preserved legumes, homemade noodles, and flavorful animal fats. The combination of peas and noodles showcases the blending of peasant nourishment with gentle flourishes (like the roux and garnishes) suitable for home cooks aspiring to elegance on a budget.
In the mid-19th century, this dish would be made using a robust iron or copper cooking pot (known as a 'Rein' or 'Kasserole'), a wooden spoon or paddle for stirring, and a simple knife for chopping. The light roux would be prepared in the same pot over a wood- or coal-fired stove, with peas cooked long and slow until tender. Noodles might be handmade and cut with a knife, boiled in a separate large pot, and drained through a coarse sieve or cloth. Fried garnishes would be made in a small pan, perhaps iron or brass.
Prep Time
15 mins
Cook Time
1 hr 30 mins
Servings
4
Ingredients
- 9 oz dried whole peas (or split peas if whole are unavailable)
- 1 medium onion (approx. 3.5 oz), finely diced
- 2 tablespoons (1 oz) pork lard or clarified butter
- 1 tablespoon (0.3 oz) wheat flour
- 1 2/3 cups light vegetable or chicken broth
- 5 1/4 oz dried egg noodles or similar wheat noodles
- Salt, to taste
- Optional: crispy fried onions or bread croutons for garnish
Instructions
- To make Nudelerbsen the old Styrian way, start by simmering 9 oz of dried whole peas until tender.
- Remove the skins if possible (or use split peas or hulled peas for convenience) and reserve.
- In a heavy pot, sauté 1 diced medium onion in 2 tablespoons of rendered pork fat (or clarified butter) until soft.
- Add 1 tablespoon flour and cook gently to form a light roux.
- Stir in the cooked peas, then pour in about 1 2/3 cups of light vegetable or chicken broth until just covered.
- Once the peas and broth come to a gentle boil together, add 5 1/4 oz of dry ribbon noodles or medium-sized soup noodles, cut into rough pieces.
- Simmer until the noodles are cooked through and the whole mixture is thick and stew-like.
- Alternatively, the noodles can be pre-boiled in salted water, drained, and then combined with the peas and broth at the end.
- Finish with a topping ("Belegung") as for "Ritschit" (often crispy fried onions and perhaps some fried bread cubes or lard bits) just before serving.
- Serve hot, ideally with rustic bread.
Estimated Calories
420 per serving
Cooking Estimates
Simmer the peas until tender, which takes the longest. While peas cook, dice the onion and prepare the other ingredients. The actual cooking time includes sautéing, simmering with noodles, and letting everything thicken. Each serving has a moderate calorie count because it uses noodles, peas, and some fat.
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