Gebackene Schneiderfischchen
"Grundeln, Kressen und überhaupt ganz kleine Fische werden ohne Aufmachen rein gewaschen, mit Salz bestäubt, in Mehl und Semmelbröseln, welche zu gleichen Theilen gemischt worden, umgekehrt, und recht schnell aus heißem Schmalze goldbraun gebacken. Dieses darf jedoch nicht über 2 Minuten betragen, indem sie sonst zu trocken werden. Sollten sie von etwas größerer Gattung seyn, so wird jedes Fischchen auf dem Bauche geöffnet und ausgeweidet; übrigens aber wie die andern behandelt."
English Translation
"Gudgeons, cress fish, and generally all very small fish are washed thoroughly without opening, sprinkled with salt, turned in a mixture of equal parts flour and breadcrumbs, and then quickly fried in hot fat until golden brown. However, this should not take more than 2 minutes, otherwise they become too dry. If the fish are of a somewhat larger variety, each one should be opened along the belly and gutted; otherwise, they are treated as the others."
Note on the Original Text
Recipes of this era are concise, often omitting precise measurements or cooking temperatures, relying instead on cook's judgment and habitual practice. Instructions focus on sequence and key warnings—such as not overfrying the fish, lest they become too dry. Spellings and word use reflect the German-language standards of the Austrian Empire in 1850, including quaint ingredients like 'Schneiderfischchen' (literally 'tailor fish,' a colloquial term for small goby species) and 'Schmalz' for pork lard. This spare and practical style allowed for adaptation to whatever ingredients or conditions the cook had on hand, making each recipe both a guide and a template.
Title
Der Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen (1850)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen
Era
1850
Publisher
Dirnböck
Background
A delightful 19th-century cookbook that serves up refined banquets and hearty Austrian and Bohemian fare alike, all tested by the experienced hand of Marianka. It promises elegance for noble tables and affordable, tasty household cooking even in lean times—an inspiring blend of culinary sophistication and practical home kitchen wisdom.
Kindly made available by
Wien Bibliothek
This recipe comes from 'Der Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen', a beloved Viennese household cookbook first published in 1850 and chronicling both refined and rustic Bohemian-Austrian fare. The author, Marianka, was a highly experienced cook in a notable Viennese home, and her recipes reflect both her wide-ranging expertise and adaptability to household economies during difficult times. Fried fish such as 'Schneiderfischchen' were an affordable delicacy, perfect for households on a budget. The recipe highlights both the thrift and practicality of 19th-century kitchens—making the most of small, regional fish, and using rendered animal fat, which was a staple in Central European cooking at the time.
In 1850s Vienna, this recipe would be prepared over a wood or coal-fired stove using a sturdy iron or copper frying pan. Fish would be cleaned and coated using pottery or wooden bowls, and larger knives or fish scalers if needed. The fat would be rendered in advance from pork, stored in earthen jars. Fish would be fried in batches with long-handled skimmers or tongs, and drained on coarse linen or woven baskets. Simplicity reigned—instruments were robust, and everything was mended for longevity, lending a tactile, hands-on quality to the cooking process.
Prep Time
10 mins
Cook Time
10 mins
Servings
4
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 1 lb very small whole fish (smelts, whitebait, or gobies; if unavailable, substitute with anchovies or other small fish)
- 3.5 oz all-purpose flour
- 3.5 oz fine dry breadcrumbs
- 2 tsp sea salt (or to taste)
- 2 cups rendered pork lard (Schmalz), or neutral oil as substitute
Instructions
- To make 'Gebackene Schneiderfischchen' in a modern kitchen, start with very small whole fish, like smelts or whitebait, which are available in most European seafood markets.
- Rinse the fish thoroughly but do not gut them unless they are larger than 4 inches; in that case, slit the belly and remove the innards.
- Pat them dry, then sprinkle a generous pinch of salt over the fish.
- In a shallow dish, combine equal parts (by volume) all-purpose flour and fine dry breadcrumbs—about 3.5 ounces each for 1 pound of fish—mixing well to create the coating.
- Dredge each fish fully in the mixture so they are evenly covered.
- Heat about 2 cups of neutral-tasting rendered pork lard (Schmalz) or, if preferred, vegetable oil, in a deep pan to around 355°F.
- Fry the coated fish in batches for no more than 2 minutes per batch, just until they turn a lovely golden brown.
- Remove promptly to prevent overcooking and drain on a wire rack or kitchen paper.
- Serve immediately, hot and crisp.
Estimated Calories
340 per serving
Cooking Estimates
You will need about 10 minutes to prepare the fish, flour, and breadcrumbs, and 10 minutes to fry all the fish in batches. Each serving has about 340 calories when divided into 4 servings.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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