Recipe Manuscript

Eingemachter Kalbskopf

Name: Eingemachter Kalbskopf
Prep time: PTPT45M
Cook time: PTPT3H
Yield: 6
Cuisine: European
Ingredients: 1 veal head (approximately 1.5–2 kg); Salt (30–40 g for the cooking water); About 1 liter beef or veal broth (to keep the meat warm and for the sauce); 60 g unsalted butter; 30 g (2 tablespoons) wheat flour; 4 anchovy fillets (substitute for 4 historical salt-cured sardellen); 10 g fresh parsley (chopped); 20–30 g shallots (2–3 small ones, finely minced); 150 ml heavy cream; Juice of 1 lemon; 2–3 egg yolks (optional, for finishing sauce)

"Pickled Calf'S Head"

1850

From the treasured pages of Der Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen

Written by Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen

Age of Gastronomy (1800 - 1900)European Intermediate Dinner Lunch

Original Recipe • 1850

Original Manuscript(circa Age of Gastronomy, 1800 - 1900)

As inscribed by the original author's hand, transcribed with care by Lost Kitchen Scrolls

Eingemachter Kalbskopf

"Der gereinigte Kalbskopf wird in gesalzenem Wasser weich gekocht, das Fleisch abgelöst und in warme Fleischsuppe gelegt. Inzwischen mache man Butter heiß, gebe einen Kochlöffel voll Mehl, 4 fein gehackte Sardellen, grüne Petersilie und Schalotten darein, gieße ein Seitel Rahm und etwas Fleischbrühe darauf, lasse es aufkochen, drücke von einer Zitrone den Saft daran, und gebe die Soß über das auf eine Schüssel gelegte Kalbfleisch. — Man kann dasselbe auch vor dem Anrichten mit einigen Eidottern absprudeln, darf es aber nicht mehr aufkochen lassen."

English Translation

"The cleaned calf's head is boiled until tender in salted water, the meat is removed and placed in warm meat broth. Meanwhile, heat butter, add a tablespoon of flour, 4 finely chopped anchovies, green parsley, and shallots, pour in a small jug of cream and some meat broth, bring it to a boil, squeeze the juice of a lemon into it, and pour the sauce over the veal meat arranged on a platter. — You can also stir in a few egg yolks before serving, but it must not be brought to a boil afterwards."

Note on the Original Text

The recipe is written in a succinct, narrative style typical of mid-19th-century Central European cookbooks. Instructions are bundled into flowing sentences: there are no lists of ingredients or detailed step-by-step processes. Quantities are approximate—terms like 'Kochlöffel voll Mehl' (a cooking spoonful of flour) and 'ein Seitel Rahm' (around 150 ml of cream) require the cook’s experience and intuition. Some terms reflect historical spellings: 'Sardellen' for anchovies, and 'Eidottern absprudeln' implies stirring in egg yolks as a thickener without curdling. Measurements like 'Seitel' (about 0.3–0.5 liters, but here less, since applied to cream) and giving instructions as continuous prose exemplify the cook’s need for flexibility and adaptability in the historical kitchen.

Modern Kitchen Interpretation

Recipe's Origin

Der Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen - Click to view recipe in book

Title

Der Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen (1850)

You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome

Writer

Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen

Era

1850

Publisher

Dirnböck

Background

A delightful 19th-century cookbook that serves up refined banquets and hearty Austrian and Bohemian fare alike, all tested by the experienced hand of Marianka. It promises elegance for noble tables and affordable, tasty household cooking even in lean times—an inspiring blend of culinary sophistication and practical home kitchen wisdom.

Kindly made available by

Wien Bibliothek

Historical Background of the Recipe

Learn about old traditions

This recipe comes from an 1850 Viennese cookbook authored by Marianka, the personal cook to Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen. The cookbook was designed not only for aristocratic kitchens wanting delicate and elegant dishes, but also for middle-class households looking for affordable yet tasty fare during economically difficult times. Austrian and Bohemian heritage cuisine, especially in the early to mid-19th century, often employed the use of whole animal parts, like calves' heads, both as a matter of thrift and for their gelatin-rich, delicate meats. The inclusion of anchovies (then called 'Sardellen') and a creamy, lemony sauce signals French and Central European influences typical in noble kitchens of the period.

Culinary Tools when the Recipe was Crafted

Tools and techniques from kitchens of old

Back in the 1850s, a substantial cast-iron or copper pot would be used for boiling the veal head over a wood or coal-fired stove. Meat would be separated using a long, sharp kitchen knife and perhaps a meat fork. To make the sauce, cooks would reach for a heavy-bottomed saucepan and a wooden spoon or a broad wooden spatula for stirring the roux. Chopping herbs and shallots required a sharp chef’s knife and a sturdy wooden cutting board. Serving would be done on a broad, shallow porcelain or ceramic platter, with sauces poured over immediately before bringing to the table.

Modern Kitchen Adaptation

Ingredients and techniques for today's cooks

ounces, cups, Fahrenheit

Prep Time

45 mins

Cook Time

3 hrs

Servings

We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!

Ingredients

1 veal head (approximately 3–4.5 lb)
2–2.5 tablespoons kosher salt (for the cooking water)
About 4 cups beef or veal broth (to keep the meat warm and for the sauce)
4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter
1/4 cup (2 tablespoons) all-purpose flour
4 anchovy fillets (substitute for 4 historical salt-cured sardellen)
1/4 cup fresh parsley (chopped)
2–3 small shallots (2–3 small ones, finely minced; about 3/4–1 oz total)
2/3 cup heavy cream
Juice of 1 lemon
2–3 egg yolks (optional, for finishing sauce)

Instructions

Begin by thoroughly cleaning a veal head (Kalbskopf) and simmering it in a large pot of salted water—enough to cover the head—until the meat is tender (about 2–3 hours).
Remove the cooked veal head, separate the meat from the bones and skin, and return the meat to a warm veal or beef broth (about 2 cups), to keep it moist and flavorful.
Meanwhile, prepare the sauce: In a saucepan, melt about 4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) of butter, then stir in approximately 1/4 cup (2 tablespoons) of flour to form a light roux.
Add 4 finely chopped anchovy fillets (substitute for old-style sardellen), a small handful of chopped fresh parsley, and 2–3 small shallots, finely minced.
Pour in about 2/3 cup heavy cream and a ladle (about 1/2–2/3 cup) of the veal broth.
Stir everything well and let it come to a gentle simmer.
Squeeze in the juice of one lemon, stirring to combine.
Arrange the reserved veal meat on a serving platter.
Pour the hot sauce over the meat.
Optionally, just before serving, whisk in 2–3 egg yolks (do not let the sauce boil once added), to finish the dish with added richness and silkiness.
Serve immediately.

Estimated Calories

550 per serving

Cooking Estimates

Preparing the veal head and sauce takes about 45 minutes, mainly spent cleaning, chopping, and assembling ingredients. Cooking the veal head until tender takes another 2 to 3 hours. This classic dish is rich and satisfying, and each hearty serving contains about 550 calories. The recipe makes enough for 6 generous portions.

As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.

We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.