Biskoten
"Ladyfingers"
From the treasured pages of Der Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen
Written by Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen
Biskoten
"1 Pfund Zucker wird mit 12 Eierdottern und dem zu steifen Schnee geschlagenen Weißen 1 Stunde lang recht gut verrührt; dann gibt man 1 Pfd. des feinsten Mehls darein, und gießt mit einem Straubenlöffel die Biskoten auf Papierstreifen. Dieses wird dann in einem abgekühlten Ofen langsam schön gelb gebacken, und noch warm mit einem feinen Messer vom Papier gelöset. Das Gießen der Masse erfordert große Behendigkeit, indem dieselbe sonst auseinander läuft, und keine schöne Form annimmt."
English Translation
"1 pound of sugar is mixed with 12 egg yolks and the stiffly beaten whites for 1 hour very thoroughly; then add 1 pound of the finest flour, and spoon the batter onto strips of paper using a straining spoon. This is then slowly baked to a beautiful yellow in a cooled oven, and while still warm loosened from the paper with a fine knife. Pouring the batter requires great dexterity, as otherwise it will spread out and not keep a nice shape."
Note on the Original Text
In the 19th century, recipes were written presuming a certain level of kitchen wisdom. Instructions favored economy of language, expecting cooks to intuit processes like egg separation or flour sifting. The term 'Biskoten' refers to what we now call ladyfingers, and 'Pfund' (pound) measures were standard, roughly 500 grams today. Spelling in the original is characteristic of mid-19th-century German-language cookery books, reflecting both regional Austrian variants ('Schnee' for whipped egg whites; 'Straubenlöffel' for a special batter spoon) and a playful, sometimes variable punctuation.
Title
Der Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen (1850)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen
Era
1850
Publisher
Dirnböck
Background
A delightful 19th-century cookbook that serves up refined banquets and hearty Austrian and Bohemian fare alike, all tested by the experienced hand of Marianka. It promises elegance for noble tables and affordable, tasty household cooking even in lean times—an inspiring blend of culinary sophistication and practical home kitchen wisdom.
Kindly made available by
Wien Bibliothek
This recipe hails from 'Der Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen,' an influential Viennese cookbook published in 1850. Its author, Marianka, was a skilled cook in the household of Hans-Jörgel of Gumpoldskirchen, and her book captured both refined and everyday Austrian and Bohemian cookery for the aspiring middle-class household during economically challenging times. Biskoten (ladyfingers) were beloved throughout Central Europe, ubiquitous in elegant desserts and enjoyed as simple tea biscuits. Their inclusion in this cookbook shows both the aspiration to culinary finesse and the importance of affordable, versatile baking, accessible even when resources were tight.
Back in 1850, Marianka would have used hand-whisks or large wooden spoons for rigorous mixing and beating of eggs. Copper or earthen bowls were favored for stabilizing beaten egg whites. The batter would be spooned onto sheets of unglazed paper or thin parchment, using a 'Straubenlöffel'—a broad, shallow spoon. The biscuits baked in a wood-fired oven, with careful temperature management, and were peeled off the paper while warm with a sharp paring knife.
Prep Time
25 mins
Cook Time
25 mins
Servings
24
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 1 pound 2 ounces granulated sugar
- 12 eggs (separated into yolks and whites)
- 1 pound 2 ounces fine wheat flour (type 405 or cake flour)
- Baking parchment or paper (for lining; substitute if needed)
- Optional: vanilla sugar or zest for aroma (not in the original, but common in modern ladyfingers)
Instructions
- To make Biskoten (ladyfingers) following this historical recipe, start by thoroughly creaming together 1 pound 2 ounces of granulated sugar with 12 egg yolks.
- In a separate bowl, beat the whites from these 12 eggs until they form stiff peaks, then gently fold them into the sugar-yolk mixture.
- Add 1 pound 2 ounces of the finest flour, sifting it in gradually to avoid lumps.
- Mix gently to preserve the airiness.
- Working quickly, use a large spoon or piping bag to spoon or pipe the batter in finger-shaped strips onto parchment-lined baking sheets.
- Bake the biscuits in a preheated oven at about 300°F, allowing them to set and color slowly to a golden yellow.
- Remove them from the paper while still warm using a fine knife.
- It’s crucial to work deftly when forming the biscuits, as the batter can spread and lose its distinct shape.
Estimated Calories
130 per serving
Cooking Estimates
It takes about 25 minutes to prepare the batter, and baking the ladyfingers takes 25 minutes. Each serving (about 2-3 ladyfingers) contains roughly 130 calories. This recipe yields around 24 servings in total.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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