To Make A Tansey

This recipe comes from the manuscript collection of Jane Webb, dating somewhere between 1725 and 1750, a period when elaborate, custard-based puddings became fashionable in English aristocratic households. Tansey, originally a springtime pudding associated with Easter, would have been served at festive tables to showcase the new greens and symbolise rebirth. Tansy, a strongly flavoured herb, was commonly used for its medicinal and culinary qualities but has since fallen out of favour due to toxicity concerns. The dish combines the opulence of eggs and cream with the earthiness of fresh herbs, resulting in a delicate baked custard that reflects the tastes of early Georgian England.

In the early 18th century, cooks would have used a stone mortar and pestle to bruise the spinach and tansy, a muslin or fine cloth to extract the juice, and a deep earthenware or metal skillet to cook the mixture. The thickened custard would be finished over a chafing dish of hot coals, with dishes swapped to help set the pudding gently. Serving would require a broad spoon and a deep dish, with the edges wiped clean by linen napkins before presentation. All this was likely done over an open hearth, making temperature control a skilled affair.