Sturgeon Of A Calves Head
From the treasured pages of Cookery book of Jane Webb, compiled by several people
Written by Jane Webb
Sturgeon Of A Calves Head
"Take a calves head with ye hair on Lay it in soak in water 2 or 3 hours boyl it in fair water till the hair will come of peel of ye hair & slitt ye head take out ye brains & tongue tye it up close in a cloth boyl it in milk & water with a little bag of Nutmeggs cloves & mace & a bunch herbs let it boyl so tender to take out ye bones & musles so clap it up close ye skiny side upermost & lay it on a plate till it be cold, when it is cold put as much white wine verjice as will cover it as you do sturgeon within a fortnight it will be fit to spend"
Note on the Original Text
The recipe is written in the direct, brisk style of early 18th-century household manuscripts. Spelling was not standardized ('boyl' for 'boil', 'verjice' for 'verjuice', 'ye' for 'the'), and measurements were general or by eye. Instructions are continuous and dependent on the cook’s familiarity with basic techniques, expecting intuitive knowledge of preparation and presentation. Notably, 'within a fortnight it will be fit to spend' reflects both language and technology of the time, signaling both readiness and storage—the marinating period doubled as preservation.
Title
Cookery book of Jane Webb, compiled by several people (1738)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Jane Webb
Era
1738
Publisher
Unknown
Background
A delightful glimpse into the culinary world of early 18th-century England, this manuscript offers a playful array of recipes and kitchen wisdom, reflecting the tastes and ingenuity of its era.
Kindly made available by
Folger Shakespeare Library
This recipe comes from Jane Webb, an 18th-century Englishwoman, and falls between 1725 and 1750. In this period, large cuts like calves’ heads were common, and nose-to-tail cookery was prized. Preparing heads, offal, and less-prized cuts was seen as both frugal and a culinary art. The dish is inspired by, and imitates, preserved sturgeon—a luxurious and expensive food served at elite tables—using a more accessible ingredient. Pickling in white wine and verjuice gave the finished dish a tangy, preserved quality similar to actual sturgeon, making it a fashionable stand-in for households seeking status or variety on the table.
Back then, cooks would have used large iron or copper pots for boiling, wooden spoons, sharp knives for scraping and splitting, and sturdy cloths for tying up the head. Herbs and spices were tied in muslin or cheesecloth bundles. For pressing the meat, heavy plates or wooden boards were used, often with a stone or weights on top. Serving involved deep ceramic or pewter dishes, with storage in cool cellars rather than modern refrigeration.
Prep Time
1 hr 30 mins
Cook Time
3 hrs
Servings
8
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 1 calf’s head, approx. 4.5–5.5 lbs, with skin and hair (or as close as possible from a butcher)
- 2–3 quarts cold water (for soaking)
- 2–3 quarts whole milk (for boiling, mixed with water)
- 2–3 quarts water (for boiling, mixed with milk)
- 2–3 whole nutmegs
- 5–8 whole cloves
- 2 teaspoons mace blades (or ground if unavailable)
- 1 bunch mixed fresh herbs (parsley, thyme, bay leaf)
- 3 1/8 cups dry white wine
- 2 1/8 cups verjuice (or 2 1/8 cups mild cider vinegar or diluted white wine vinegar as substitute)
Instructions
- Begin by soaking a fresh calf’s head (with skin and hair still attached, roughly 4.5–5.5 lbs) in cold water for 2 to 3 hours to loosen the hair.
- Bring a large stockpot of water to a boil and simmer the head until the hair can be scraped away easily.
- Remove the hair, split the head, and extract the brains and tongue (reserve for other uses if desired).
- Tie up the cleaned head tightly in a clean piece of cloth.
- Place in a large pot and cover with a mixture of equal parts whole milk and water—enough to submerge the head (approx.
- 2–3 quarts each).
- Add a bouquet garni of fresh herbs (parsley, thyme, bay leaf), and a spice sachet containing whole nutmegs, cloves, and mace (wrapped in cheesecloth).
- Simmer gently until the meat is very tender and easily comes away from the bone (about 2–3 hours).
- Remove the cooked head, discard bones and gristle, and press the meat tightly—skin side up—between two plates or weights.
- Allow to cool completely in the fridge.
- Once cold and set, transfer to a deep dish and cover with a mixture of dry white wine and verjuice (or substitute a blend of white wine and mild cider vinegar if verjuice is unavailable).
- Place in the fridge and let marinate for up to 2 weeks.
- Serve in slices, as you would traditional pickled sturgeon.
Estimated Calories
350 per serving
Cooking Estimates
You will spend time preparing and soaking the calf’s head, scraping hair, cooking it gently, and finally pressing and marinating the meat. Most of this is hands-off, but you need to plan ahead for soaking, cooking, and chilling steps.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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