To Pickle Champions
From the treasured pages of Cookery book of Ann Goodenough
Written by Ann Goodenough

To Pickle Champions
"Pick and Wash that is upon them and if they grow too big beat them with a litle water, wash them very cleane and putt them into Boyling water and lett them Boyle an howre then take them out and lay them upon a cleane Cloth untill they are cold then take as much white wine Vinegar as will Cover them and putt into it Cloves Mace Nutmegs Ginger peper and Salt of each a little Boyle these togathr and when the pickle is cold putt upon them and as much putt a little of the best Sallet Oyle: The Spices must not bee very small, onely Bruis'd"
Note on the Original Text
Written in early modern English, the recipe employs a conversational tone with minimal standardized spelling ('Boyling', 'howre', 'pott', 'putt'), frequent word contractions, and inconsistent unit measurements. Directions were provided as a sequence of actions rather than a precise list. Quantities and timing were often left to the cook's judgment, reflecting the assumption of comprehensive kitchen knowledge. The instruction to 'Bruis'd' the spices but not grind them shows the period's taste for aromatic but not overpowering spice in pickling solutions.

Title
Cookery book of Ann Goodenough (1738)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Ann Goodenough
Era
1738
Publisher
Unknown
Background
A delightful journey into the kitchens of early 18th-century England, this collection captures the flair and flavors of its time with recipes crafted by the inventive Ann Goodenough. Expect a charming medley of hearty roasts, comforting pies, and time-honored confections, perfect for those wishing to dine as they did in Georgian days.
Kindly made available by
Folger Shakespeare Library
This recipe, dating from approximately 1700 to 1775, is attributed to Ann Goodenough. During this period, pickling was an essential method for preserving vegetables (or fungi, in this case) before refrigeration was available. Mushrooms, known as 'champignons,' were considered a delicacy and were often pickled to be enjoyed year-round. The use of white wine vinegar and a robust blend of whole spices marks this as a refined recipe, suitable for genteel households that could afford such imported seasonings. The inclusion of 'Sallet Oyle,' now extra-virgin olive oil, hints at the influence of continental European taste, which was increasingly fashionable in Britain during the 18th century.

In the 18th century, this recipe would have been prepared using a large iron or copper pot for boiling the mushrooms, wooden spoons, a mortar and pestle for brusing the spices, linen cloths for draining and cooling, and glass or earthenware jars for storing the pickled goods. Keeping pickles was part of the wider art of household management, and the jars were often sealed with parchment and string.
Prep Time
20 mins
Cook Time
1 hr
Servings
6
Ingredients
- 1 pound fresh button mushrooms (champignons)
- 2 cups white wine vinegar
- 4-6 whole cloves
- 2 blades of mace (or 1/2 teaspoon ground mace as a substitute)
- 1/2 whole nutmeg, roughly cracked
- 1 thumb-sized piece fresh ginger, sliced (about 3/4 ounce)
- 1 teaspoon black peppercorns
- 1 tablespoon sea salt
- 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Instructions
- Begin by selecting fresh button mushrooms (champignons), thoroughly cleaning them and removing any dirt.
- If the mushrooms are larger than bite-sized, lightly bruise or crush them in a little water, then rinse clean again.
- Bring a large pot of water to a boil, add the mushrooms, and allow them to boil gently for about 1 hour.
- Drain the mushrooms and spread them out on a clean tea towel to cool completely.
- Meanwhile, in a saucepan, combine enough white wine vinegar to cover the mushrooms (approximately 2 cups for every 1 pound of mushrooms) with a scant handful each of whole cloves, mace blades, cracked nutmeg, sliced fresh ginger, a few peppercorns, and a generous pinch of salt.
- Bring this mixture to a boil, then remove from the heat and let cool.
- Once the pickling liquid is cold, pour it over the cooled mushrooms in a sterilized jar.
- Add a drizzle (about 2 tablespoons) of good quality extra-virgin olive oil on top before sealing.
- Allow the mushrooms to sit in the pickling liquid for at least a week in the fridge before eating.
- Serve them as an appetizer or a garnish.
Estimated Calories
40 per serving
Cooking Estimates
Preparing and cleaning the mushrooms will take about 15 minutes. Cooking the mushrooms takes about 1 hour. After cooking, the pickling liquid comes together quickly in about 5 minutes, and you only need to cool everything before jarring. One serving of these pickled mushrooms has roughly 40 calories. This recipe makes about 6 servings.
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